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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

95 Brembos - steering stabilizer - bilstien shocks

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Old Dec 17, 2005 | 05:25 AM
  #21  
ThomasJ's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Lafayette IN
Originally Posted by 95-Superlift4runner
I dont like how the superlift shocks ride on my 33x12.5 bfg muds
Would you be interested in selling your superlift rear shocks? Mine are a little too short for my lift.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 12:46 PM
  #22  
sandcrawler's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: maine
Originally Posted by ThomasJ
I got a skyjacker stabilizer ... could not believe the difference it made.
i have the same one at present, but will be switching it out for the direct-fit OME SD33 that's sitting in my garage right now... but i agree: the skyjacker works great.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 01:38 PM
  #23  
Cebby's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Originally Posted by Epic Ed
Yeah, after reading through mega "rotor" posts, I decided to go with the solid rotors. Brembo does make a slotted rotor, but in the end I was more concerned with getting debris and rocks caught in the slots than I was with the marginal peformance gain you might notice from having slotted rotors.

Ed
Nothing marginal about the performance improvement. It is a NIGHT and DAY difference. FWIW, I have had zero issues with debris.

My experience:
Slotted on the front of my 4Runner.
Crossdrilled at all four corners of my JGC.

The improvement in cooling/braking effectiveness far outweighs any reduction in surface area due to the slots and/or holes. Evacuating the heat and assoociated gasses that buildup between the pad and the rotor is how you combat fade. Simple physics - it works. Since the rotors on 4Runners are notorious for warping, there is credence to the notion of them needing the cooling benefits of slotted/CD rotors. These vehicles are heavy and the brakes really get a workout to get them hauled down from highway speeds...

I will admit that the slotted rotors chew up pads quicker. Been there. Oddly, the crossdrilled rotors are not chewing up pads like the slotted.

On a rig that sees mostly trail time, slotted/CD rotors are a waste of money IMO.

Last edited by Cebby; Dec 22, 2005 at 01:46 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 01:47 PM
  #24  
Cebby's Avatar
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Originally Posted by tc
My ProComp stabilizer went right on, no kit. Even came with a new tapered drift to replace the stock one.
The OME has a new tapered stud also.

Here's the writeup for the install...
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/joey_ome/joey.htm

Last edited by Cebby; Dec 22, 2005 at 01:50 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 02:09 PM
  #25  
Epic Ed's Avatar
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Cebby, I hear ya, but there is just as much anecdotal evidence out there from people who have tried them and felt like they didn't improve braking performance. In fact, I recall reading a few posts where member complained that slotted/drilled rotors warped faster than OEM. Believe me, I'd like to give them a whirl, but the jury seems split about 50/50 on these type of rotors.

What brand did you go with?

Ed
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 02:15 PM
  #26  
Cebby's Avatar
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Ed - I have Powerslot rotors.
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