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Hi,
Problem of the day is the power switch on the console will no longer power the tailgate window up/down. It works fine with the key in back. So I pulled it out and (of course) it doesn't seem to match up with any diagrams I can find.
It has a small 'bulb' in the side which I guess is a fuse of some sort and that bulb measures open.
I need some sort of diagram or explanation about this thing. I'd hate to throw a $50 used part at it only to have the little bulb go open again because of some other fault.
Anybody familiar with it?
TIA, Bill
Thanks, and Happy New Year!. I have that diagram already and it just doesn't seem to correspond with my switch.
Here's a pic of the little bulb/fuse from the side of the switch. It doesn't resemble any diodes like shown on the diagram but frankly I haven't tested it as a diode. There's only two connections on it. It seems to connect from pin 1 to pin 5 on the switch. Could it be simply to illuminate the UP lettering on the button? I've never noticed it if it ever did.
If that's the case then it has nothing to do with my problem.
That, sir, is a light bulb, missing it's filament. All it takes is a few oxygen molecules, and the filament goes PFFFT! Since the bulb heats the glass, and then it cools when it's turned off, after so many cycles, you're bound to get a crack in the glass. A little O2 gets in, and that's the end of the filament. That's why LEDs last forever. Air can't get in, and even if it does, no filament to go PFFFFT! Just a little silicon. You ever see sand burn up? I rest my case
No fuse action. After more than 35 years as a professional radar tech, I know a light bulb when I see one, and that is positively a light bulb. No doubt in my little pea brain.
Probably there to light up the bezel of the switch, but I may be wrong on that. Show you the switch at night.
Power supply line from tail fuse, etc. Your bulb is circled(?!) in red.
Ground is just off the bottom of the page.
Occam's Razor. If it looks like a light bulb then it probably is a light bulb
I guess a direct replacement is difficult/impossible to find although I'm a pretty handy scrounger. Its the least of my problems, though.
Thanks.
Quick search found THIS. I'm pretty sure that's the bulb you need.
They're still all over the place. Easy to find. Car manufacturers are pretty old fashioned when it comes to this kinda thing. Planned Obsolescence, dontcha know. Bulbs fail, LED's don't. No money from LED's.
Cool! It looks like the little bulb crosses to a Sylvania 2721 and there's lots of options. But alas, my switch looks like a dead duck. Although it doesn't match the diagram numbers/colors I can't get continuity in any combination. I see some on ebay at $15-20 that might work without plunking down 50 bucks for a used one. Did I say I'm a scrounger? Amazingly the cut out size is somewhat common.
A Work in progress...not there yet.
I'm guessing you want a T-1, which means the glass envelope is one eighth inch in diameter (3mm). (You don't care much about the bulb size, but the base size. Which appears to follow the bulb size.)
The way the switch works is to transfer 12 volts directly to the window motor on one wire for up and the other wire for down. (It basically reverses polarity) the contacts can burn up in the switch causing your issue. It could also be a burnt wire or connector to the rear end.
Last edited by rattlecanpaint; Mar 4, 2021 at 07:21 AM.
I just got the new switch installed yesterday. Found on Amazon for a few bucks. Haven't performed the necropsy on the old one to see why it failed. Yes, its a simple SPDT Momentary switch.