TheSnake91

Will try the front diff... there are brand new half shafts on both sides (the boots were torn when I bought the truck) so I upgraded to some thicker boots and new halfshafts (they came assembled).. im going to get into the CVs and diff. But wouldnt both sides be doing it if it were the differential. . Just curious.. any feed back would be very helpful at this point.

Dreidel

Idk for sure as I never owned the 4wd ifs I went straight from 2wd to sas so kinda skipped that's step

Grant Garner

Just for ˟˟˟˟s and giggles what if you swapped the hubs from left to right and see if the clicking follows? Just a thought!! I think CV as well though!!!

ebbs15

I'm brand new to Yotatech... but I'm on over at tacoma world a bunch... anyways... I developed a "click" from my drivers side a week ago. bought a new CV as was recommended... but when I opened up the hub to get everything apart... I found that my inner hub gear, the one mated to the CV axle, had stripped itself... it ate the teeth so bad that I can't pull the damn thing off now... but I think the "click" is when it's jumping teeth... anyways... now gotta figure out how to pull the gear off so I can replace it AND the CV... as both sets of teeth are distroyed

jazz1

This is a old thread but now I have a clicking when BOTH wheel locks are in lock position. No clicking if only one wheel lock is locked. I checked left LOCK, right FREE. Then tried left FREE, right LOCK. Only clicks when both are in lock position and it does not make any difference if transfer case is in 4WD Any ideas?

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

i have no idea about your click noise.

however, even though the first post is over three years old, i'm thinking the OP purchased a set of locking hubs for a different application that had the same axle spline count. the internal sliding clutch is too thick, and doesn't fully release. when the wheels are straight, the clutch is engaged even in the "free" position. with the wheels turned, there is just enough clearance for the clutch to slip from the splines when in the "free" position, thus the click as the clutch ratchets the end of the splines.

a side to side comparison will show the difference in thickness of the sliding clutch for the '86-'95 ifs hub vs. whatever the thicker clutch came from.

wally

jazz1

I can't see it being the wheel locks as they were disassembled and repacked last spring. No issues until a few days ago. The fact both have to be in LOCK position to make the clicking noise is unusual. I am going to lift front end and turn some wheels,,get the stethoscope out...make stick a finger in diff.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

that's why i stated i had no idea about your clicking noise, as opposed to that described by the OP.