scope103

I may have caused some confusion here, but co_94 had it correctly.

The W pin connects to the CEL, but the CEL illuminates when the W line is grounded by the ECU. In other words, you "use" W by connecting a test light from W to B+, not to ground.

So your CEL is "off" because the W pin is NOT at ground (it's nominally high voltage, and limited ability to light a test light, suggests it is just high-stated by the ECU).

It sounds like you're not getting power to the ECU. Have you checked for 12v at A1 (BATT) (Black-Green, through the EFI fuse)? How about A12 and A13 (+B) (White-Red, through the EFI relay)?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Can't find that +b1 anywhere in the wiring book, no problem finding it in the FSM. First time the wiring book has let me down Anyways back on topic.

The light will be dim when you probe W with a light probe. Since it is two lamps in series. So that is normal.

Pin IH1-16 is down stream of the EFi relay so that seems ok also. This is also +B (A-12) at the computer.

Pin IH1-10 is constant power downstream of the EFi fuse, and seems ok at the IH connector. This is also BATT (A-1) at the computer.

Next up is to make sure everything is reaching the computer like scope says. A1 A12 and A13 should all have battery voltage.

The full tests are here in the FSM. Do both the voltage and resistence checks.

Specificly I'm wondering about the supply line resistence, might have enough voltage but not enough current? I think the power is getting there based on the 0.005v reading you got on IH1-16, but it could just be leaking thru a dirty connector.

(E01)C13 (E02)C26 (E1)C11, are all grounds. These don't have Ohm reading listed anywhere I can see, but they should be low. High resistence here will cause power symptoms. could be wire damage or just a loose connection (Ground EC, located on the inside rear of the passenger side valve cover)

ViperTT

ok did some volt test at the ECM

Batt - E1
+b - E1
+b1 - E1
all of thies were at 12.97 volts

#10 - E01
#20 - E02
are both at 12.97 volt

W - E1 is 12.97 volts

the rest of the test i can't do my son gave up and i am to blame now for his truck not running

ohm's test

ne - G0- g with an O with a line through it is 181.4 ohm's

G1, G2 - G with a O with a line through it both of thies are 147.2 ohm's

i put a new ground wire from the pass side rear head to the firewall

i have looked at every connector have looked every were for lose wires

the only thing i can find not hooked up is a relay on inside pass side fender
between main fuse box and firewall
one wire goes to a ground its a yellow wire
a black wire with a mini fuse to the battery??
and a green wire leading into the fuse panel driver side kick panel
and it is not connected to nothing
i do not think this does nothing something put in for something else

ok i think i read something about the tach if it went bad it would not allow spark??
is this correct if so would it also make the check engine light not work??


the ohm's test are way obove what 0.190 to 0.290 so what does this mean?

any one know were i can get some TNT and a blasting cap??????

toyota 7 Dad -02


i forgot
ohm meter groung prob grounded
red prob test
E01 0.00ohms
E02 0.00ohms

E1 45.4 ohms

these are ground wires right ??

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

The test chart gives the resistence in kOhm. So the ignition wire readings are ok.

E01, E02 and E1 all use the same ground point. The difference is E1 goes thru splice point I15, while E01&2 are direct runs according to the wiring manual, but maybe they just forgot to put the splice indicator?

I'd suspect the E1 ground, it's limiting the current to under 0.3A.

the relayloc.pdf only shows the one relay on the fender outside of the relay blocks, its the ABS relay. This might be the relay you found disconnected. But it's hard to say w/o a photo, and even then no guarantee.

ViperTT

ok the E1 ground? were does this go???
i got this schematic from one of the great links you all have given me
it shows E1 (brown wire) going down and splicing into anther brown wire at I15? right??
then it shows that wire going to what i will call it what it looks like in the schematic a 'stop sign' then that wire brown wire goes off to the volume air flow (air flow meter)
is this that meter behind the air filter???

sorry i know my old 53 year old brain is not up to snuff as all of you are with this
now i am regreating not going to that GM auto training school when it was offered to me

the thing of it is as bad as this dam truck is costing me in pain and misery and money
i am looking at buying a toyota tacoma 4x4 and if i did that can you think of what kind of hell storm my son will through at me if i can not get this this (trying to use a nice word here and not what i feel like saying it is) tin can running???

i am making a guess here are all the brown wires ground wires on this truck???

if so 'yup call me a stupid old man' can you not run a new ground wire say from the engine block and back into the cab by the ECM and splice it into the brown wire at E1???

i will go and take some pics and see if i can post them here

truly and honestly thank you all very much for taking you time to help me on this thing
Bill

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Octogon(stop sign) are splice points, triangles are grounds.

If you scroll down to the last page in one of those wiring PDF files it'll give a list of the doodads. Click on the blue text and it'll open the correct file to help locate the doodad.

So say scroll down to ground points, click the blue text next to "EC", and it shows a picture of the engine and a line pointing to the ground point at the valve cover.

I'm not to sure it is even critical that E1 runs to the valve cover. I'd shove some wire into the plug at the bottom of the computer and run it right to the body there near by and see what happened.

That E1 runs all over hell and back to be honest.. Try checking it in the diagnostic box, that will tell you if the wire is damaged in the short run from the ECM to splice I15, which would be easy to replace.

ViperTT

here are some pics of what i am dealing with please do not laugh (well do then have a beer and then call your friends over for a good laugh)!!



i got more and you might want to use these as a do not do things this way??

ViperTT

ViperTT

you can see that the ignition key is on and
the check engine light is not on

ViperTT

The gray poupon well that was a damage item from work
and is not part of this truck!
Well it could be if i cant get it running
a little mustard and off to the scrap pile??

ViperTT

Ok i will put a wire into the plug at E1 then ground it to the fram inside of the cab and see what happens?
should i try any more test at this point??

as for the schematic i got is from here
http://snjschmidt.com/wiring/Engine_Control_3vze_2.jpg
and this
http://snjschmidt.com/wiring/Engine_Control_3vze_3.jpg

sorry as for the text you were talking about i do not think i have what you have

oh and sorry for the mb's in the pics i uploaded if they are to big you can delete them
once you had a good laugh

this truck was used a abused by the last owner very hard
the dash was not put back the right way and the instrament panel was taken apart
and the front clear plastic cover was gone and most of buttons and tabs are gone

then what my son has done then me trying to hunt this problem down with your help!!
thanks!!!!!

ViperTT

ok i unpluged the wire plug that plugs into the mass air flow sensor and that dam check engine light came on!!
plug that wire back into this dam thing and that check engine light goes back out????
this truck at this plug was falling apart and i tried to fix it
it has one of them K&N cold air filters on it and this sensor say K&N on it

i am going to dig into this dam thing
but i do not know what to do!!!

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Hmm spagetti and mustard never tryed that!

Applying ground at the computer E1(plug C-11) had no effect?

Is that your "replacement" computer or the one that came with the 4runner plugged in?

This 4runner is a 1993 3vze, the correct computer for this model year is the one shown pluged in #89661-35870. I don't recall the differences offhand.

the relay doesn't have stock wiring and is oriented "strange". Where does the black and grey(?) wire go. Also there is the ring terminal hanging upper right, where does this one originate?

Red-black, is this a test wire since it disappeared in image0017 maybe, if not where is the other end?

A lot of stuff still going on at the alarm unit. makes it hard to say it's fully/properly uninstalled. Can't make out the part number to look for the wiring schematics.


Where are you guys located? Maybe someone will drop by and give you some help, or atleast let you verify the computer is still functional.

ViperTT

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

I HOPE!!!

do you want to know what it was???
i got a check engine light that is now on!!!

and yes guess what else??? oh i am loving this little point in triumph i hope


can i drag it out for a little while????


this was my sons fault not mine!!!!

this is what you get when you smoke a joint and try to work on a truck

an old man a bad back and arthritis every were in my old body

spending money and more money cralwing in and out and under and over

pain pills more pain pills

and then coming here and racking all of your great BRAINS!!!!!!

for what a dam stinking joint to get high!!!!!

all this time and everything being my fault i should not have made him try to fix
his truck!!!!

oh can i drag this out some more ??????????????????????????

SORRY GUYS!!!!!

come on old man what the hell was wrong!!!!!!!!


TELL US DAM IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

IT WAS CO 94 PU THAT PUT ME ONTO IT ABOUT THE BROWN WIRE RUNNING ALL OVER TO HELL AND BACK!!!!!!

my son did it not me NOT ME!!!!!!!!

ok i give in

when they, and i will blam both of my sons now since both of them knew what had happened
and did not tell me!!!!

they were taking thing apart to get to the valve covers and then the heads etc.
my oldest thried to pull that plug out from the mass air flow sensor!!!
the dam ˟˟˟˟ head took the two screws out that holds the male plug in the air flow main body then he pulled!!! guess what happened next???

yep he pulled that whole plug out and broke all the wires????

unplug that plug to the mass air flow sensor to look at the plug and then i lit up a cig
and looked inside the truck for my test light and guess what i saw

a check engine light that was on i stood there looking but not believing

i then drug his ass out and made him crank the dam truck so i could check for spark
and yes i now have spark!!

the thing is they both knew that that plug was pulled apart Kyle told Andrew he fixed it
and they both said no more about it!!!!!!

DAM KIDS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

AT THIS POINT I WOULD LIKE TO SAY TO YOU ALL HERE AT YOTATECH THAT YOU ALL!!
ARE GREAT AND VERY HELPFULL!!!!!
THANK YOU FROM ALL OF MY HEART AND SOUL
FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP

I JUST HOPE I DO NOT FIND ANTHER PROBLEM AND HAVE TO COME BACK HERE
AND PESTER YOU ALL AGAIN!!!!!!!!

THANK YOU ALL VERY VERY MUCH

BILL

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

FSM&EWD zipfile. Might have a cd image file(ISO) inside it. Will take me a little bit to find out. ... Nope no cdimage, just download and open, Yay I didn't want to have to explain extracting ISO's

So while I was doing other stuff seems like you found a major source of the short. Short in the VAFM. Did the kids try and swap it for a different one, or is it just "broke".

That picture doesn't show up for me currently, might be because I'm on the post message screen *shrug*

ViperTT

THE replacment computer came out of a 4runner but i am going to take it back
that ring terminal wire is the power to that dam alarm that i am going to have to hook back up

the red wire is to the cb radio

we live in Scotts Mills Oregon

as for that relay the black wire has a mini fuse in it and was hooked to the + side of the battery! as for what it did i do not know

as for the ECM the guy at the wreaking yard said it would interchange with this truck
but it is going back and maybe exchange for a mass air flow sensor

oh i am dreading have to put this dam dash back together!!!!

thanks CO 94 PU

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Sounds like somebodies going to be digging gramma and mom new gardens this spring. And fetching dad fresh beer even if they have to come home from across town todo it.

ViperTT

YEPERS!!!

i do not drink but man o man do i have a list of things to to and it is growing every minute!!!!

ViperTT

i got one more question!
that diog. port by the main fuse box under the hood
the tabs that hold to the fuse box one is broke off the other is half broken
can thies be replaced!! if so were do you get one we tried the wreaking yards today and no go! is this a deal item if it is still availible??

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Doesn't really seem worth the effort to me. You can ziptie or wire wrap it around the TACH thru the center hole on the fusebox clip area, pictured above.

Which basicly means I couldn't find it as a seperate part number. I think it is probably included in the wiring harness which isn't available.

Keep looking you'll find one, pretty sure it'll be the same part on most toyotas not just trucks and 4runners. If you can't live without it and can't find one someone will ship you one from a salvage yard for cost+.

There are a couple toyota salvage places that ship parts, atleast two of them in denver. yotayard and yotajims. I think there is one in sweetwater TX, but I don't recall the name.

Handy parts info can be found online.
http://www.utoyot8.com has diagrams
http://www.toyomotorparts.com/ gives some price info and links to the diagrams.
There is also a dealer (or two?) parts guy that frequents the board and will price match, but again I forgot the website Think thereis a sticky over on the newbie tech section for parts places.