was wondering if any one could tell me how to jump the te1 e1 terminals while timing. do i start the truck already jumped, or do i jump the terminals after the truck is already started and idling? and how long should i keep them jumped.do i cut the truck off and remove the wire after a certain amount of time. or do i just pull the wire out while the truck is running please help this is all thats holding back completion of complete rebuild plus, torker cam, pacesetter header, k and n intake, msd 6 off road (not hooked up yet)

 

from the FSM, you can read the section regarding setting the timing here. From the FSM it appears you install the jumper with the engine running and you remove the jumper once you have the timing set to 5 BTDC and tightened the hold-down bolt for the distributor. Then recheck the timing to make sure you are at 10 - 14 BTDC at idle.

 

As a noob to doing timing on the 22re (i have a 22r) I can give you a little help here as I just did this on 92Toy's truck to get him back on the road. Add the jumper (paperclip or otherwise) with the engine running, two things you can do to ensure you have the jumper in right is 1) idle will change and should be lower with the jumper installed and 2) the check engine light will come on with the jumper installed. Once you have confirmed that the jumper is installed correctly and working set your timing (92toy had 5 BTDC listed on his emissions sticker). Then with engine still running remove jumper and note the engine idle should jump back up a few rpm and the check engine light should go out.

Depending on your cam choice, machine work on the block/head etc, you may want to play with where you set your timing to achieve the best results for your setup and driving style.

Hope this helps.

 

Within all of your questions I just want to point out there's nothing to worry about. For your purposes, you can put the jumper wire in the terminals before or after you start the vehicle, keep the wire in as long as it takes while setting the ignition timing, it doesn't matter if you pull the wire out while it's running or once you've shut it off, nor does it matter how long you leave it in. In other words, you're not going to hurt anything.

What you're doing when you install the jumper wire is accessing the diagnostics mode of the ECU and bypassing all electrically operated sensor input to the ECU that would otherwise affect/adjust the timing during EFI operation. With the wire in, you're in base timing mode and are then able to set timing without ECU adjustments affecting your ability to do so.

Make sure the vehicle's at operating temp when you're doing this and all peripheral operations are off (a/c, etc). And, make sure you're throttle sensor is set correctly.

 

thanx so much for all the info but whats up with the 10 to 14 deg btdc at idle this is the first Ive heard of this?

 

I believe this is the setting after timing is set with the connector jumped and at 5 btdc.

 

the jumper sets the engine to run at base timing of 5 btdc without interference from any of the sensors. once the jumper is removed and all of the sensors are working in unison for emissions and the like the ecu will advance the timing. basically, with the jumper you are setting the "mechanical" timing and with the jumper removed the ECU is adjusting the timing to be more precise for the environment (ie retarding timing in higher elevations to maintain a proper air/fuel mixture to allow for a full burn.)

 

The mechanical timing is between cam and crank positioning........for example, during a timing chain/belt installation. Not to be flippant, but that's why it's called "mechanical". The "base" ignition timing is between crank position (after mech. timing is correctly set) and ignition pulse set by distributor positioning having the ECU bypassed with the jumper wire.

The 10-14 btdc applies to 3vze equipped vehicles only. 5-8 btdc is for 22re's. So, unless your just curious about 3.0's, forget about it. However, once you've set the IG timing you will notice once the jumper is removed from the diagnostic port that the ECU will automatically advance it a bit.....what it's supposed to do. Not more than a few degrees, though.

 

The FSM is your friend. The procedure is described on the last page here:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...13distribu.pdf

Whole manual:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

 

Hi I'm new to this site.
Have 94 RV6 with timing problem after full rebuild.
When setting the timing @ 10'BTDC with jumper installed as per FSM removing Jumper causes the timing to jump to 15'BTDC instead of 8"BTDC as per FSM. I have reset TPS as per FSM, The only thing not back on the motor is the Dashpot.
Any help would be greatly Appreciated