And it has a hard time starting (takea a couple times ) but if i unplug the tps it will start but take a second to get up to idle. Tps still not adjusted right ?

 

So i adjusted the tps an now i can jump the connectors an it will idle down so i could adjust timing the right way an then when i unplugged it , it idled up and went to 10-11 so the timing is set now but it still bogs if i rev to fast or take off to fast but i can rev it an drive slowly and it runs wayyyyyy better

Any ideas now ?
New injectors should be here tomorrow and we will see what happens with them

 

O2 sensor ? Knock sensor ??

And way to test these too ???

 

yes you can test both. read the fsm link I gave you on the 1st page of this thread. many of your question will be answered in the troubleshooting section.

 

So i warmed it up jumped vf1 an e1 and it says 1.80 at idle and on the fsm it says more then 0 replace so im guessing its the o2 that is bad now ????

 

if it is outside of the specs of what the fsm recommends than yes change it.

 

I did the CEL test jumper thing and it just constantly bling which is code 11 ? Normal no malfunction ?

 

Now its blinking 4 then 1 code 41 which is tps?

 

I'm voting for a bad throttle position sensor. These are simple resistors and are known to wear out over time and cause it to run just as you describe.

 

I just replaced it and its set

 

Huh?

VF1 is the conditioned (0-5v) O2 sensor signal, WHEN TE1 is jumpered to E1. Without the jumper, it is 5 voltage steps giving fuel trim (2.5v is "normal").

If you jumper VF1 to E1 (ground), you may damage the ECU. Do you mean you put a voltmeter (infinite resistance, definitely not a "jumper") between VF1 and ground? Did you have the TE1-E1 jumper in? Did you get the 6-8 flops in 10 seconds? That's the test for an O2 Sensor.