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So I just picked up a clean 93 4runner that came from Colorado ( I live in the salt belt of Illinois and nothing but rust out here) I knew it had a oil leak from the motor somewhere and would be at least putting a clutch master and slave cylinder in it. I would have to press the pedal ALL the way to the floor to shift but it would shift so I thought nothing more. master,slave, done! So I do the deal and start my hour drive home. 10 minutes in the clutch starts slipping and rpms going up. Ok crap new clutch. SO! I pull the clutch (OEM Toyota) and it's saturated with oil. So I do the master,slave and I had to go cheap on the clutch because of funds. ( I may be regretting that) NOW, I cannot get it into gear at all. I can put it into gear then start it. I've checked the brkt under the dash and it's fine. no play or movement. I just took a video of the release fork in action t/o bearing looks to be pushing on the fingers but that's all I can see. Slave seems to move the inch or so. I'll try this again and take the inspection plate off and look at that. Everything has almost been replaced in the system except the clutch fork and pivot ball. oh and the flywheel. done all the searches and have read quite a bit on this. What an I missing?
Thanx in advance!!
Jim
'
The only things I can think to check are:
-oil leaking from trans into bellhousing
-clutch line needs to be bled
-engine leaking oil from rear main seal
-clutch line is leaking (old rubber tends to do that)
The only things I can think to check are:
-oil leaking from trans into bellhousing
-clutch line needs to be bled
-engine leaking oil from rear main seal
-clutch line is leaking (old rubber tends to do that)
engine oil was leaking in. No gear oil.
bled the line twice but did not bench bleed the master( should I?)
not sure where the engine is leaking yet. wanted to fix the clutch first.
don't think the rubber line is leaking. looks dry
Also check that he clutch disc is facing the right way.
it won't matter. if it was installed backwards, and an attempt was made to operate, it will be broken now. but, for certain, when installing, make sure the disc is installed correctly.
I'd think engine oil getting in, be it from rear main seal and/or something leaking above the bellhousing (like my 22RE's valve cover half-circle seal that leaked oil down the back of the head and onto/into the bellhousing of my W56), would be staying behind the flywheel on the block and on the bottom for the most part rather than all up onto the clutch friction surfaces. If anything, oil would be promoting slippage -- ie, difficulty for the clutch to engage or stay engaged, rather than a difficulty in disengagement like what you're describing when you say you can't get the truck into gear while the engine is running.
With all the new clutch/master/slave components, I'd be inclined to give the clutch pedal a proper adjustment, like what's described here:
If the pedal adjustment is way off, even if every part of the clutch is brand new and in perfect condition, it can cause the clutch to not be able to completely disengage (causing difficulty getting into/out of gear), and if the adjustment is way off on the opposite end of the adjustment spectrum, it can cause the clutch to not be able to completely engage (causing slipping and rapidly accelerated clutch wear).
When you eyeballed the clutch fork movement, was it clearly pivoting where it should on the ball just inside of the bellhousing? I've put a transmission into a 240SX way back in the day and forgot to clip the fork onto the pivot ball, making it where the clutch could never disengage. Learned that lesson the hard way ha.
I just put a new Luk clutch and flywheel in my '94 Xtracab 4x4 last month. I pulled the engine out to fix the timing chain, oil pan leaks, and a whole boat-load of stuff, including that clutch/flywheel replacement. The previous owner put a clutch in with the disc installed backwards, which is pretty laughable since that disc has the most clear, plain-English, all-capital engraving that reads "FLYWHEEL SIDE" but I found out the disc had been on backwards after having owned this pickup for 1.5 years and putting about 20k miles on it. The clutch engagement seemed like it was kinda inconsistent but it drove just fine. The clutch would make this squeal that sounded like an elephant trumpeting sound (so random lol) during that second of slippage for a smooth take-off, but I'm thinking that was from 2 or more of the clutch disc springs having loose collars around them that you could rattle by waving the disc around in the air by hand. I figure that rattle turned into a high-frequency buzz/squeal during the rapid slip-grip-slip-grip of a sprung clutch engagement.
When you eyeballed the clutch fork movement, was it clearly pivoting where it should on the ball just inside of the bellhousing?
Sure would hate to attempt to save time by skipping that whole optional diagnosis stage, and ironically end up actually spending way more time and money than needed.
After replacing everything but the transmission. I have lift off!
It could have been anything but I think it was the cheap clutch/pres plate.
Thanx everyone with your input. It was much appreciated.
07-06-2017, 05:56 PM
but I found out the disc had been on backwards after having owned this pickup for 1.5 years and putting about 20k miles on it. The clutch engagement seemed like it was kinda inconsistent but it drove just fine. The clutch would make this squeal that sounded like an elephant trumpeting sound (so random lol) during that second of slippage for a smooth take-off, but I'm thinking that was from 2 or more of the clutch disc springs having loose collars around them that you could rattle by waving the disc around in the air by hand. I figure that rattle turned into a high-frequency buzz/squeal during the rapid slip-grip-slip-grip of a sprung clutch engagement.
