92 PU w/22RE no idle when warm
11-20-2016, 08:46 AM
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92 PU w/22RE no idle when warm
I have a 92 pickup with 22re that recently started dying at idle only when its at full temp.
Starts right up when cold and idles fine.
Stalls at stoplights, starts right back up but will only stay running if a give it gas or I'm at speed.
It runs perfectly fine in all other ways except at warm idle. No hesitation, no loss of power.
Details:
22RE Auto, AC, PS
Rebuilt 5000 miles ago. Block bored and decked, head decked and pressure tested. Injectors serviced. Only parts reused were 3 connecting rods.
Replaced AFM at rebuild because it would not idle in gear or with AC on. Diagnosed faulty AFM by using a known to be good one which solved the problem.
New cap, wires, rotor.
All new filters (unless there's a fuel filter somewhere other than crammed under the intake)
Full of coolant
Therm sensor connected, did not remove to check it.
Temp gauge in dash working normally.
No visible cracks or holes in Intake pipe from AFM to TB.
Did not find evidence of vacuum leaks.
Adjusting idle screw all the way down when warm stalls the engine. Adjusting it out will keep it running.
My web research keeps bringing me back to IACV. I haven't taken it off to inspect nor have I looked very hard at EGR if that would be the problem.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Starts right up when cold and idles fine.
Stalls at stoplights, starts right back up but will only stay running if a give it gas or I'm at speed.
It runs perfectly fine in all other ways except at warm idle. No hesitation, no loss of power.
Details:
22RE Auto, AC, PS
Rebuilt 5000 miles ago. Block bored and decked, head decked and pressure tested. Injectors serviced. Only parts reused were 3 connecting rods.
Replaced AFM at rebuild because it would not idle in gear or with AC on. Diagnosed faulty AFM by using a known to be good one which solved the problem.
New cap, wires, rotor.
All new filters (unless there's a fuel filter somewhere other than crammed under the intake)
Full of coolant
Therm sensor connected, did not remove to check it.
Temp gauge in dash working normally.
No visible cracks or holes in Intake pipe from AFM to TB.
Did not find evidence of vacuum leaks.
Adjusting idle screw all the way down when warm stalls the engine. Adjusting it out will keep it running.
My web research keeps bringing me back to IACV. I haven't taken it off to inspect nor have I looked very hard at EGR if that would be the problem.
Any ideas?
Thanks
11-21-2016, 06:11 AM
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11-23-2016, 08:41 AM
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northernlad - so then maybe the problem is not quite clear. Are you able to set the warm idle to the 750 or 850 rpms recommended in the FSM? If the idle adjustment is not set high enough, when the engine warms up and the IACV closes, it might kill your engine.
11-23-2016, 09:04 AM
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It went from running perfectly one day to dying at warm idle the next.
After reading a bunch of threads that were close to, but not quite, my symptoms I decided to try adjusting the idle screw out as one suggested would deal with the sypmtom but not solve the underlying issue.
I adjusted the warm idle, and marked the setting, to what was normal (didn't have a way to verify actual RPM). It kept it from dying but after taking a half hour trip it wouldn't idle again.
Another thread suggested the idle screw should be somewhat hard to turn and if it wasn't it could change due to vibration. I checked this morning and found that it had moved from 6 o'clock to about 7:30.
I'll try the hot idle setting again and tape over the screw to see if that works.
Thats the update...
After reading a bunch of threads that were close to, but not quite, my symptoms I decided to try adjusting the idle screw out as one suggested would deal with the sypmtom but not solve the underlying issue.
I adjusted the warm idle, and marked the setting, to what was normal (didn't have a way to verify actual RPM). It kept it from dying but after taking a half hour trip it wouldn't idle again.
Another thread suggested the idle screw should be somewhat hard to turn and if it wasn't it could change due to vibration. I checked this morning and found that it had moved from 6 o'clock to about 7:30.
I'll try the hot idle setting again and tape over the screw to see if that works.
Thats the update...
