92 4Runner will not start when warm
03-25-2011, 08:15 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
92 4Runner will not start when warm
Hey guys!! Great site. I have a 92 4Runner I purchased recently that absolutely will not start after running for a while. It will turn over but will not start. I can spray a couple of shots of ether into the intake and it will start but runs terrible and will not idle. After the engine cools for a while, it runs fine again. I have changed the plugs, plug wires, distributer cap, rotor button and distributer itself. I had a mechanic tell me that it was possibly the computer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh, and I also replaced the TPS sensor. Thanks in advance.
03-25-2011, 08:44 PM
#2
As someone told me, I will pass along, and I mean no disrespect.......
"Stop throwing parts at it"... and trust me, it's the best advice you could get, hahhaa. Wish I'd listened, sooner than I had! hahhaa.
Ok, so......... first, I would say it's doubtful it's the computer. Swapping out a known good one is fine, ...just to test... as long as you can find one and don't have to pay for it just yet. (yards don't often take back electronic stuff, eSPECIALly ECU's).
This is a pretty common 'help' topic. I'm so exhausted that I'm not quite sure right now what most of those solutions were, lol. I subscribed, so I will be back.
Hmmmm, could the Coolant Temp Sensor cause this, guys?
How about the COR? I seem to remember pulling into a Kragen, after having an issue with "starting hot". The Circuit Open Relay(COR) was so corroded from a leak in the windshield, and was intermittently going out, because it was frozen in "OPEN" position(??? Can't remember exactly, years ago)...... But I replaced it at Kragen for 40$ and VOILA, it started right up, right there, and never gave me another issue.
"Stop throwing parts at it"... and trust me, it's the best advice you could get, hahhaa. Wish I'd listened, sooner than I had! hahhaa.
Ok, so......... first, I would say it's doubtful it's the computer. Swapping out a known good one is fine, ...just to test... as long as you can find one and don't have to pay for it just yet. (yards don't often take back electronic stuff, eSPECIALly ECU's).
This is a pretty common 'help' topic. I'm so exhausted that I'm not quite sure right now what most of those solutions were, lol. I subscribed, so I will be back.
Hmmmm, could the Coolant Temp Sensor cause this, guys?
How about the COR? I seem to remember pulling into a Kragen, after having an issue with "starting hot". The Circuit Open Relay(COR) was so corroded from a leak in the windshield, and was intermittently going out, because it was frozen in "OPEN" position(??? Can't remember exactly, years ago)...... But I replaced it at Kragen for 40$ and VOILA, it started right up, right there, and never gave me another issue.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 03-26-2011 at 07:27 PM.
03-25-2011, 08:49 PM
#4
Pretty easy test on the COR, as I remember, Phins....
Turn the key to on, almost starting it, and if you do not hear a "CLICK" from behind the glove box, ...it aint working. I am really tired, as stated, so I'm sure I might get this wrong....but I'm pretty sure the COR opens the circuit and allows power to the Fuel Pump.
Sounds like you're not getting fuel to me, eh? Easy check as well. Crack loose the Cold Start Injector banjo bolt while someone tries to start it(have a rag under it and over it, as you don't want fuel spraying anywhere and causing a fire.....or going in your face, right? lol.) Fuel should shoot out of there pretty well into the rag.
Turn the key to on, almost starting it, and if you do not hear a "CLICK" from behind the glove box, ...it aint working. I am really tired, as stated, so I'm sure I might get this wrong....but I'm pretty sure the COR opens the circuit and allows power to the Fuel Pump.
Sounds like you're not getting fuel to me, eh? Easy check as well. Crack loose the Cold Start Injector banjo bolt while someone tries to start it(have a rag under it and over it, as you don't want fuel spraying anywhere and causing a fire.....or going in your face, right? lol.) Fuel should shoot out of there pretty well into the rag.
03-25-2011, 09:05 PM
#5
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Location: Portland,OR-Coeur D' Alene,ID
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Welcome to YT as well 
Great site for Yota Owners..You have a 3VEEZY or 22RE?
For the Future, go USER CP > Settings and Options > Edit Signature
Just lets people know what your Vehicle Specs are..
Did you replace the Coil as well?
Also is the TPS to specs
This is Great for replacing and Symptoms etc.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...es/repair.html
Great site for Yota Owners..You have a 3VEEZY or 22RE? For the Future, go USER CP > Settings and Options > Edit Signature
Just lets people know what your Vehicle Specs are..
Did you replace the Coil as well?
Also is the TPS to specs
This is Great for replacing and Symptoms etc.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...es/repair.html
03-25-2011, 09:11 PM
#6
Registered User
How about the COR? I seem to remember pulling into a Kragen, after having an issue with "starting hot". The Circuit Open Relay(COR) was so corroded from a leak in the windshield, and was intermittently going out, because it was frozen in "OPEN" position(??? Can't remember exactly, years ago)...... But I replaced it at Kragen for 40$ and VOILA, it started right up, right there, and never gave me another issue.
worth a shot to pull it out and check.
03-25-2011, 09:30 PM
#7
BTW, ....DANG, JDS, how did I not catch the "No Description" part...? Dang, I guess I really am tired! lol.
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03-25-2011, 09:34 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yeah I really need to stop throwing parts at it for real lol. It is a V6 as someone asked and I'll go to the signature page and fix it as well. Where is the COR located? Is it easy to get to?
03-25-2011, 09:41 PM
#9
Should be the same on the V6, right, guys? lol......
Mine is in the panel above the ECU, behind/to the right of the glove box.
1. Open the Glove Box and remove the leather backing thing in there. Look to your right, and you'll see a couple big square relays. The lower one, i believe, is the COR.
2. Before you do that, DO what I said, lol. "Turn the key to start, then ALMOST start it, but not quite... as you're turning the key like you're going to turn it over, you'll hear the COR or you wont. Keep in mind, you're not having issues when cold, lol. Sooooooo, obviously, wait till it's hot soaked or the relay is overheating, or whatever is happening....then, go to turn the key over, JUST DON'T let it click or you might misread what is making what noise, ya know?
Mine is in the panel above the ECU, behind/to the right of the glove box.
1. Open the Glove Box and remove the leather backing thing in there. Look to your right, and you'll see a couple big square relays. The lower one, i believe, is the COR.
2. Before you do that, DO what I said, lol. "Turn the key to start, then ALMOST start it, but not quite... as you're turning the key like you're going to turn it over, you'll hear the COR or you wont. Keep in mind, you're not having issues when cold, lol. Sooooooo, obviously, wait till it's hot soaked or the relay is overheating, or whatever is happening....then, go to turn the key over, JUST DON'T let it click or you might misread what is making what noise, ya know?
03-25-2011, 09:45 PM
#10
You have a 92, so I'm not sure it's in a different place. Do you have a manual??? lol. Look in the fuel section of the haynes, ...Ok, it's Section/Page 4-9, top right, a pic! It looks different in shape but same location. Also, just for the heck of it, if you have a book, look through troubleshooting for "wont start when hot".... ya never know, right? lol. Maybe put that in the search tab up there^^^^ too, could be a great thread on that.
03-25-2011, 10:36 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
JDS1992!! How do I know if the TPS sensor is in spec? Since I've replaced it, it has cured my idling problem other than my other issue it seems to be better. Is there a way to adjust? Something I should maybe check? Thanks in advance!!
03-26-2011, 06:02 AM
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Should be the same on the V6, right, guys? lol......
Mine is in the panel above the ECU, behind/to the right of the glove box.
1. Open the Glove Box and remove the leather backing thing in there. Look to your right, and you'll see a couple big square relays. The lower one, i believe, is the COR.
2. Before you do that, DO what I said, lol. "Turn the key to start, then ALMOST start it, but not quite... as you're turning the key like you're going to turn it over, you'll hear the COR or you wont. Keep in mind, you're not having issues when cold, lol. Sooooooo, obviously, wait till it's hot soaked or the relay is overheating, or whatever is happening....then, go to turn the key over, JUST DON'T let it click or you might misread what is making what noise, ya know?
Mine is in the panel above the ECU, behind/to the right of the glove box.
1. Open the Glove Box and remove the leather backing thing in there. Look to your right, and you'll see a couple big square relays. The lower one, i believe, is the COR.
2. Before you do that, DO what I said, lol. "Turn the key to start, then ALMOST start it, but not quite... as you're turning the key like you're going to turn it over, you'll hear the COR or you wont. Keep in mind, you're not having issues when cold, lol. Sooooooo, obviously, wait till it's hot soaked or the relay is overheating, or whatever is happening....then, go to turn the key over, JUST DON'T let it click or you might misread what is making what noise, ya know?
03-26-2011, 07:55 AM
#14
Registered User
How old is the O2 sensor? I had had an old chevy with a 2.8L V6 that would do this, and it was the O2. Car ran great so long as I didn't have to idle or stop and try to restart.
03-26-2011, 08:06 AM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Not sure if the O2 sensor has ever been changed. The truck only has 93k on it so I don't know.
03-26-2011, 08:10 AM
#16
03-26-2011, 09:39 AM
#17
Hey Phins,
Yep, that guy right above me, is somewhat of a Guru with these... no, he is a guru, haha.(Sup Roger
).... his "Cheap Tricks" and otherwise info-loaded pages on his site have saved me SO MUCH TIME! The books can be vague.... he clears that stuff up! Listen to 4crawler, test the TPS.
Far as the COR, ...well, that clicking, I'm PRETTY sure, is what you were looking for. There are tests in the book for the COR, as well as testing the fuel at the rail, like I'd suggested("Crack the Cold Start Injector Banjo Bolt, checking for fuel pumping out as you turn over the motor"). Not sure on the 3.0, maybe Roger knows off the top of his head..... Roger, does the 3.0 of that year have the Starter Relay in the Glove Box area, or out in the engine bay, like ours?
92K CAN be time for an 02 Change, as well. Not sure on the 3.0, ...is there more than one? Don't have the book in front of me. You could always try unplugging it, CARFULLY, lol, when it's in it's "HOT SOAK MOOD", haha. Yes, you can run the truck in open loop without the 02 hooked up. I'd be very interested to see if your issue goes away there.
Also, there are only a couple things that shut off the injectors(maybe even fuel, all together?).. I believe one is "NO SPARK", ......MAYBE, just maybe, your coil pack being bad(Ignitor or Coil getting really hot?) could cause a "Fuel Cut" issue. Another fuel cut is in the braking system. Not sure it even COULD be related to your issue, as I think it just 'temporarily' cuts fuel to the injectors, not SHUTTING THEM OFF?,... But, I've had strange things happen with mine, when the Master Cyl. became worn......... With many of these, when you press on the brake at over 1000 RPM, the system temporarily cuts fuel to the Injectors(it's a sort of safety feature. It keeps, especially in automatics, the truck from running on when you're trying to apply the breaks.) usually, with mine, if I hold RPM at around 1200, then apply the brake, the idle will jump up and down, every second or so, until I let off the brake. (NOT LIKELY your issue, but just sharing my experience, as it freaked out when my pedal got soft and was engaging the "Brake Activation Button" under the pedal.... There's even a "PIN" for it in your ECU, that I found when running some tests. Think it's named "BK1" or something.
Also wanted to ask Roger, .......Roger, when an "Injector Resistor" is going bad.... can it cause this? Or does it just, well, 'GO BAD'? lol. Also curious if a "Hot Start Troubles" issue like this can be caused by the TPS? Something related to the relationship between the TPS and the CTS?
Yep, that guy right above me, is somewhat of a Guru with these... no, he is a guru, haha.(Sup Roger
).... his "Cheap Tricks" and otherwise info-loaded pages on his site have saved me SO MUCH TIME! The books can be vague.... he clears that stuff up! Listen to 4crawler, test the TPS. Far as the COR, ...well, that clicking, I'm PRETTY sure, is what you were looking for. There are tests in the book for the COR, as well as testing the fuel at the rail, like I'd suggested("Crack the Cold Start Injector Banjo Bolt, checking for fuel pumping out as you turn over the motor"). Not sure on the 3.0, maybe Roger knows off the top of his head..... Roger, does the 3.0 of that year have the Starter Relay in the Glove Box area, or out in the engine bay, like ours?
92K CAN be time for an 02 Change, as well. Not sure on the 3.0, ...is there more than one? Don't have the book in front of me. You could always try unplugging it, CARFULLY, lol, when it's in it's "HOT SOAK MOOD", haha. Yes, you can run the truck in open loop without the 02 hooked up. I'd be very interested to see if your issue goes away there.
Also, there are only a couple things that shut off the injectors(maybe even fuel, all together?).. I believe one is "NO SPARK", ......MAYBE, just maybe, your coil pack being bad(Ignitor or Coil getting really hot?) could cause a "Fuel Cut" issue. Another fuel cut is in the braking system. Not sure it even COULD be related to your issue, as I think it just 'temporarily' cuts fuel to the injectors, not SHUTTING THEM OFF?,... But, I've had strange things happen with mine, when the Master Cyl. became worn......... With many of these, when you press on the brake at over 1000 RPM, the system temporarily cuts fuel to the Injectors(it's a sort of safety feature. It keeps, especially in automatics, the truck from running on when you're trying to apply the breaks.) usually, with mine, if I hold RPM at around 1200, then apply the brake, the idle will jump up and down, every second or so, until I let off the brake. (NOT LIKELY your issue, but just sharing my experience, as it freaked out when my pedal got soft and was engaging the "Brake Activation Button" under the pedal.... There's even a "PIN" for it in your ECU, that I found when running some tests. Think it's named "BK1" or something.
Also wanted to ask Roger, .......Roger, when an "Injector Resistor" is going bad.... can it cause this? Or does it just, well, 'GO BAD'? lol. Also curious if a "Hot Start Troubles" issue like this can be caused by the TPS? Something related to the relationship between the TPS and the CTS?
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 03-26-2011 at 09:42 AM.
03-26-2011, 03:33 PM
#18
Circuit opei9ng (CO) relay is generally near the glove box:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ORelayLocation
I think most all the 4Runners '86 and later have a starter relay and/or the neutral start stuff with the automatics, problem is with the way Toyota wired the relay in that the power for it still runs through the ignition switch, so the relay is sort of meaningless in terms of how you normally think of a relay sending power to a device direct from the battery:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ORelayLocation
I think most all the 4Runners '86 and later have a starter relay and/or the neutral start stuff with the automatics, problem is with the way Toyota wired the relay in that the power for it still runs through the ignition switch, so the relay is sort of meaningless in terms of how you normally think of a relay sending power to a device direct from the battery:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions
03-26-2011, 05:06 PM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Hey Phins,
Yep, that guy right above me, is somewhat of a Guru with these... no, he is a guru, haha.(Sup Roger).... his "Cheap Tricks" and otherwise info-loaded pages on his site have saved me SO MUCH TIME! The books can be vague.... he clears that stuff up! Listen to 4crawler, test the TPS.
Far as the COR, ...well, that clicking, I'm PRETTY sure, is what you were looking for. There are tests in the book for the COR, as well as testing the fuel at the rail, like I'd suggested("Crack the Cold Start Injector Banjo Bolt, checking for fuel pumping out as you turn over the motor"). Not sure on the 3.0, maybe Roger knows off the top of his head..... Roger, does the 3.0 of that year have the Starter Relay in the Glove Box area, or out in the engine bay, like ours?
92K CAN be time for an 02 Change, as well. Not sure on the 3.0, ...is there more than one? Don't have the book in front of me. You could always try unplugging it, CARFULLY, lol, when it's in it's "HOT SOAK MOOD", haha. Yes, you can run the truck in open loop without the 02 hooked up. I'd be very interested to see if your issue goes away there.
Also, there are only a couple things that shut off the injectors(maybe even fuel, all together?).. I believe one is "NO SPARK", ......MAYBE, just maybe, your coil pack being bad(Ignitor or Coil getting really hot?) could cause a "Fuel Cut" issue. Another fuel cut is in the braking system. Not sure it even COULD be related to your issue, as I think it just 'temporarily' cuts fuel to the injectors, not SHUTTING THEM OFF?,... But, I've had strange things happen with mine, when the Master Cyl. became worn......... With many of these, when you press on the brake at over 1000 RPM, the system temporarily cuts fuel to the Injectors(it's a sort of safety feature. It keeps, especially in automatics, the truck from running on when you're trying to apply the breaks.) usually, with mine, if I hold RPM at around 1200, then apply the brake, the idle will jump up and down, every second or so, until I let off the brake. (NOT LIKELY your issue, but just sharing my experience, as it freaked out when my pedal got soft and was engaging the "Brake Activation Button" under the pedal.... There's even a "PIN" for it in your ECU, that I found when running some tests. Think it's named "BK1" or something.
Also wanted to ask Roger, .......Roger, when an "Injector Resistor" is going bad.... can it cause this? Or does it just, well, 'GO BAD'? lol. Also curious if a "Hot Start Troubles" issue like this can be caused by the TPS? Something related to the relationship between the TPS and the CTS?
Yep, that guy right above me, is somewhat of a Guru with these... no, he is a guru, haha.(Sup Roger
).... his "Cheap Tricks" and otherwise info-loaded pages on his site have saved me SO MUCH TIME! The books can be vague.... he clears that stuff up! Listen to 4crawler, test the TPS. Far as the COR, ...well, that clicking, I'm PRETTY sure, is what you were looking for. There are tests in the book for the COR, as well as testing the fuel at the rail, like I'd suggested("Crack the Cold Start Injector Banjo Bolt, checking for fuel pumping out as you turn over the motor"). Not sure on the 3.0, maybe Roger knows off the top of his head..... Roger, does the 3.0 of that year have the Starter Relay in the Glove Box area, or out in the engine bay, like ours?
92K CAN be time for an 02 Change, as well. Not sure on the 3.0, ...is there more than one? Don't have the book in front of me. You could always try unplugging it, CARFULLY, lol, when it's in it's "HOT SOAK MOOD", haha. Yes, you can run the truck in open loop without the 02 hooked up. I'd be very interested to see if your issue goes away there.
Also, there are only a couple things that shut off the injectors(maybe even fuel, all together?).. I believe one is "NO SPARK", ......MAYBE, just maybe, your coil pack being bad(Ignitor or Coil getting really hot?) could cause a "Fuel Cut" issue. Another fuel cut is in the braking system. Not sure it even COULD be related to your issue, as I think it just 'temporarily' cuts fuel to the injectors, not SHUTTING THEM OFF?,... But, I've had strange things happen with mine, when the Master Cyl. became worn......... With many of these, when you press on the brake at over 1000 RPM, the system temporarily cuts fuel to the Injectors(it's a sort of safety feature. It keeps, especially in automatics, the truck from running on when you're trying to apply the breaks.) usually, with mine, if I hold RPM at around 1200, then apply the brake, the idle will jump up and down, every second or so, until I let off the brake. (NOT LIKELY your issue, but just sharing my experience, as it freaked out when my pedal got soft and was engaging the "Brake Activation Button" under the pedal.... There's even a "PIN" for it in your ECU, that I found when running some tests. Think it's named "BK1" or something.
Also wanted to ask Roger, .......Roger, when an "Injector Resistor" is going bad.... can it cause this? Or does it just, well, 'GO BAD'? lol. Also curious if a "Hot Start Troubles" issue like this can be caused by the TPS? Something related to the relationship between the TPS and the CTS?
03-26-2011, 05:13 PM
#20
Hmmm, an auto! Dang, I'm sorry man. Far as the TPS adjustment, then suddenly the Trans takes a dump theory?...yeah, I'm not really sure if that's coincidence or EASILY explained as "Related"... Roger would have to clarify that one. Not sure, ....are you saying you could not get the TPS to adjust within specs?
