92 22re wont stay running ?
#21
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Ok I tried the jump wire for the fuel pump [ FP to B+] no change ,didn't start I could herar something come on up by the intake the same as when you turn on switch and push open the flapper in the air flow meter also got a wiff of gas but other then that no change just pop off and die out .
#22
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Not sure what else I can try , don't have the money to have it towed to a garage or pay a mechanic . Guess it might be time to put it up for sale and maybe somebody else can fix it . Was hoping my son would hook it up to his computer but don't think that's ever going to happen didn't know if he did it might show something .
#23
I'm thousands of miles away from you. Mind finding out exactly what is making that sound?
Did you check if CSI is spraying fuel when you crank while engine is cold?
You verified that there is spark?
Did you check the ECU to injector wires in the loom under the intake manifold like zerokelvin did here?
Check the crimps/splices like shown here.
Did you check if CSI is spraying fuel when you crank while engine is cold?
You verified that there is spark?
Did you check the ECU to injector wires in the loom under the intake manifold like zerokelvin did here?
Check the crimps/splices like shown here.
#24
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I'm thousands of miles away from you. Mind finding out exactly what is making that sound?
Did you check if CSI is spraying fuel when you crank while engine is cold?
You verified that there is spark?
Did you check the ECU to injector wires in the loom under the intake manifold like zerokelvin did here?
Check the crimps/splices like shown here.
Did you check if CSI is spraying fuel when you crank while engine is cold?
You verified that there is spark?
Did you check the ECU to injector wires in the loom under the intake manifold like zerokelvin did here?
Check the crimps/splices like shown here.
#25
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Talked to a couple more people and there saying its got to be the air flow meter like few of you guys have said . My son did get me a used that the guy told him it came off a running truck but it made no diffs. . is there a way to test these to find out if there any good ?
#26
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Let's back up for a moment and review what we know and what we do not know, since the diagnosis of your problem has spanned a little over a year.
Is the truck new to you? Has the engine ever ran properly since you have owned it?
Was the engine running fine one day and the next it would not continue to run once started?
Please verify the following:
- The engine will crank just fine. The fuel pump runs when the key is in the START position.
- The engine will start for a moment, then die.
- The problem still exists when the Check Connector +B and Fp terminals have been jumpered.
- Each spark plug is firing.
- Fuel pump will not stay running once the key is released to the ON position after the engine starts and the engine dies when the fuel pressure drops too low.
Right now, we do not know if all of the injectors are firing when they are supposed to, but lets work in the fuel pump problem first.
Let's go back to the Check Connector. The following test should tell us if we are currently going down the right path with the Air Flow Meter - Circuit Opening Relay circuitry. You mentioned that jumping the +B and Fp connectors did NOT change the no-run condition you have and I want to verify.
- Leave the key in the LOCK position (Off).
- In the Check Connector, jump the +B and Fp terminals.
- Turn the key to the ON position. Do not start the engine.
- You should hear the fuel pump running. Please report back as to what you find.
If you want to verify that your original Air Flow Meter is good as well as your new (used) one, check out this procedure from 4Crawler on how to test the Air Flow Meter: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml
Please keep in mind that multiple problems could exist too.
#27
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Let's back up for a moment and review what we know and what we do not know, since the diagnosis of your problem has spanned a little over a year.
Is the truck new to you? Has the engine ever ran properly since you have owned it?
Was the engine running fine one day and the next it would not continue to run once started?
Please verify the following:
- The engine will crank just fine. The fuel pump runs when the key is in the START position.
- The engine will start for a moment, then die.
- The problem still exists when the Check Connector +B and Fp terminals have been jumpered.
- Each spark plug is firing.
- Fuel pump will not stay running once the key is released to the ON position after the engine starts and the engine dies when the fuel pressure drops too low.
Right now, we do not know if all of the injectors are firing when they are supposed to, but lets work in the fuel pump problem first.
Let's go back to the Check Connector. The following test should tell us if we are currently going down the right path with the Air Flow Meter - Circuit Opening Relay circuitry. You mentioned that jumping the +B and Fp connectors did NOT change the no-run condition you have and I want to verify.
- Leave the key in the LOCK position (Off).
- In the Check Connector, jump the +B and Fp terminals.
- Turn the key to the ON position. Do not start the engine.
- You should hear the fuel pump running. Please report back as to what you find.
If you want to verify that your original Air Flow Meter is good as well as your new (used) one, check out this procedure from 4Crawler on how to test the Air Flow Meter: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml
Please keep in mind that multiple problems could exist too.