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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

92 22re wont stay running ?

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Old Jul 4, 2018 | 11:09 PM
  #21  
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Ok I tried the jump wire for the fuel pump [ FP to B+] no change ,didn't start I could herar something come on up by the intake the same as when you turn on switch and push open the flapper in the air flow meter also got a wiff of gas but other then that no change just pop off and die out .
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Old Jul 10, 2018 | 10:28 PM
  #22  
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Not sure what else I can try , don't have the money to have it towed to a garage or pay a mechanic . Guess it might be time to put it up for sale and maybe somebody else can fix it . Was hoping my son would hook it up to his computer but don't think that's ever going to happen didn't know if he did it might show something .
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Old Jul 10, 2018 | 10:45 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by VTToy
...I could herar something come on up by the intake ...
I'm thousands of miles away from you. Mind finding out exactly what is making that sound?
Did you check if CSI is spraying fuel when you crank while engine is cold?
You verified that there is spark?

Did you check the ECU to injector wires in the loom under the intake manifold like zerokelvin did here?
Check the crimps/splices like shown here.
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Old Jul 12, 2018 | 02:32 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
I'm thousands of miles away from you. Mind finding out exactly what is making that sound?
Did you check if CSI is spraying fuel when you crank while engine is cold?
You verified that there is spark?

Did you check the ECU to injector wires in the loom under the intake manifold like zerokelvin did here?
Check the crimps/splices like shown here.
my son disconnected the line that goes into the intake and there was plenty of gas coming out and he checked spark and good there . I did check wires and vac lines the best I could but ill look them over in that area more .
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 01:19 AM
  #25  
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Talked to a couple more people and there saying its got to be the air flow meter like few of you guys have said . My son did get me a used that the guy told him it came off a running truck but it made no diffs. . is there a way to test these to find out if there any good ?
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 09:47 PM
  #26  
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Let's back up for a moment and review what we know and what we do not know, since the diagnosis of your problem has spanned a little over a year.

Is the truck new to you? Has the engine ever ran properly since you have owned it?

Was the engine running fine one day and the next it would not continue to run once started?

Please verify the following:
  1. The engine will crank just fine. The fuel pump runs when the key is in the START position.
  2. The engine will start for a moment, then die.
  3. The problem still exists when the Check Connector +B and Fp terminals have been jumpered.
  4. Each spark plug is firing.
  5. Fuel pump will not stay running once the key is released to the ON position after the engine starts and the engine dies when the fuel pressure drops too low.

Right now, we do not know if all of the injectors are firing when they are supposed to, but lets work in the fuel pump problem first.

Let's go back to the Check Connector. The following test should tell us if we are currently going down the right path with the Air Flow Meter - Circuit Opening Relay circuitry. You mentioned that jumping the +B and Fp connectors did NOT change the no-run condition you have and I want to verify.
  1. Leave the key in the LOCK position (Off).
  2. In the Check Connector, jump the +B and Fp terminals.
  3. Turn the key to the ON position. Do not start the engine.
  4. You should hear the fuel pump running. Please report back as to what you find.

If you want to verify that your original Air Flow Meter is good as well as your new (used) one, check out this procedure from 4Crawler on how to test the Air Flow Meter: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

Please keep in mind that multiple problems could exist too.

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Old Jul 23, 2018 | 11:57 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by old87yota


Let's back up for a moment and review what we know and what we do not know, since the diagnosis of your problem has spanned a little over a year.

Is the truck new to you? Has the engine ever ran properly since you have owned it?

Was the engine running fine one day and the next it would not continue to run once started?

Please verify the following:
  1. The engine will crank just fine. The fuel pump runs when the key is in the START position.
  2. The engine will start for a moment, then die.
  3. The problem still exists when the Check Connector +B and Fp terminals have been jumpered.
  4. Each spark plug is firing.
  5. Fuel pump will not stay running once the key is released to the ON position after the engine starts and the engine dies when the fuel pressure drops too low.

Right now, we do not know if all of the injectors are firing when they are supposed to, but lets work in the fuel pump problem first.

Let's go back to the Check Connector. The following test should tell us if we are currently going down the right path with the Air Flow Meter - Circuit Opening Relay circuitry. You mentioned that jumping the +B and Fp connectors did NOT change the no-run condition you have and I want to verify.
  1. Leave the key in the LOCK position (Off).
  2. In the Check Connector, jump the +B and Fp terminals.
  3. Turn the key to the ON position. Do not start the engine.
  4. You should hear the fuel pump running. Please report back as to what you find.

If you want to verify that your original Air Flow Meter is good as well as your new (used) one, check out this procedure from 4Crawler on how to test the Air Flow Meter: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

Please keep in mind that multiple problems could exist too.

Ok ill try and answer everything , bought the truck in the late summer /early fall of 2016 drove home with it about 60 miles had no problems . drove around with it some and used it that winter for hunting when the the trans started to leak [ automatic ] so parked it that winter as I have no place but outside to work on it and I'm also disabled I have limited use of my right hand so hard at time for me to do things . in the mean time the state inspection ran out and it need a few things to pass again . I did start it a couple of times that winter and let it run and kept a eye on the tranny leak which at that time seemed to stop and tranny I kept full. when spring came in 17 it wouldn't start it would only turn over and run but ruff for only a second then shut off which is what it is still doing . 1. engine cranks fine and the fuel pump comes on . 2. and yes starts for a sec. then dies out . 3. I did try the +B to FP jump and nothing changed . 4 as far as I know they are. the guy I got truck from had just gave it a tune up new plugs , wires , cap , coil gas filter . the plugs have maybe 100 miles on them ? and ran fine till the no start problem . 5. that sounds I guess about right sense it dies out . It has new injectors in it with maybe 20 miles on them and again was running good when put in and I'm guessing they are now it will run as long as you spray [ I used silicone ]into the intake so I fig the injectors are working . No jumping didn't make a difference . I will try again , what is the best thing to use for jumping the +B to FP ? I used a wire then I even tried a paper clip as I was told that was better . It also might be a few days as we are having rain all this week and am also helping get ready for my sons wedding but we do have a few in between when its suppose to stop . I also could hear what I believe is the pump or pressure reg come on when I move the flapper in the air flow meter . We did crack the line at the intake and had plenty of fuel coming out my son said . Thanks
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