Hello all,
I have a 1992 22re that after she warms up, looses all power. I have replaced the following; ignition coil, plugs, wires, cylinder 3 injector, distributor cap and rotor, fuel pump, fuel filter. Truck fires up and was idling perfect, drive down the road and after about 4-5 miles falls on its face. To the point where I’m lucky to make it to the next stop. Parked the truck for about a month with no time to work on it. Went out the other day, fired up and now surging at idle. I’m lost where to even start at this point. Any ideas?

 

Fuel pressure regulator
TPS

 

I forgot to mention I have replaced the TPS.
I’ll give the fuel pressure regulator a try..

 

Have you looked for vacuum leaks in the intake tube and hoses/lines?

 

yes, to the best of my knowledge, I checked each hose for cracks and abrasions. Even used a little bit of brake cleaner to spray and see if there was any change in RPMs when spraying hoses.

 

The surging idle could be caused by low coolant level.

 

If the idle is set too high, above about 1100 RPM, idle will surge when the brakes are applied. Toyota programs the ECU to cut the fuel when the RPMs are above a specific value, and the brakes are applied. They figured that if you're slowing down, they would save you some fuel, and help the engine slow to idle, to be ready to go after the stop.

Check the idle is set to 800 RPM or so.
Pat☺

 

Fuel pressure regulator changed. Now truck high idles, surges, then dies. I’m about to my wits end with this thing

 

if you throw parts at it, you'll either run out of money, or run out of wits. or, you might get lucky and replace a part that is causing the problem. diagnose the problem, test, and then replace once a faulty part is confirmed.

the FPR is simple enough to test; why did you install a new one?

 

So with everything listed above changed, I just located the circuit relay under the passenger kick panel. Pulled and sounded like rust build up. Changed. And still fires, 3 seconds later dies. I have good fuel pressure. I assume the truck is starting off the cold start injector then dyeing. I tried jumped the b+ and fp ( I believe I’m getting the correctly) located all the grounds and double checked them still no change.

 

that isn't how the CSI works. if the truck runs for 3 seconds, it isn't off of the CSI. The CSI only fires a continuous stream of fuel into the upper plenum while the key is in the "start" position and the ambient engine temperature is below a certain threshold. as soon as the key is released from the "start" position, the CSI is off.

if your engine runs for "3 seconds and dies" after you release the key, it points to an issue in the AFM/cor/fuel pump circuit. testing will determine which.

 

I pulled each injector and using a pigtail I was able to confirm each injector turn on. I flushed and cleaned them before putting them back in. What is the “cor” I’m not sure what else to do with fuel. New pump, it’s running. I can hear the return into the tank, and new filter.

 

Here's what you need to know about the COR (Circuit Opening Relay). https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-quits-312747/ As wallytoo pointed out "runs 3 seconds then quits" is the classic sign of a VAF-COR circuit problem.

You say you have good fuel pressure. I assume that means you use a gauge, so why did you replace the FPR? (And if you're going to say "I cracked a fitting and gas sprayed all over the place," stop right there. Go back to the beginning and start over!) What you want to know is what happens to the fuel pressure when it dies.

 

thanks ill run all these test in the write up. I did try the jumper, with no change. I’ll report back once I figure something out.

 

After the long weekend I was able to get my hands on a book. I tested the air flow sensor tested good. Checked the timing and it’s good. Fuel pump running fine. Thought I had an injector leaking so I pulled them all checked, and replaced all o-rings. While at the rail I checked fuel pressure at the rail and had 40psi. I checked each pigtail with a test light and when cracking each plug indicates a “pulse”. Everything back together and still have the same problem. Ignition pack was tested and test fine.

 

Check for an exhaust obstruction, like a plugged catalytic converter or bent exhaust pipe.
If you have a vacuum gauge on hand, connect it to manifold vacuum and rev the engine to 2500 RPM's. If the vacuum gauge slowly continues to drop in vacuum, this confirms a plugged cat or exhaust.

 

I take a ball-peen hammer, and beat on the cat in my trucks once a year or so. It's supposed to help clear any build-up off the bedding inside the cat. It DOES make the trucks run better, and, for what it's worth, smell like they did when much newer. This was recommended by one of the professional mechanics I worked with.
Of course, the same mechanic told me the BEST thing to do with a cat was to remove it from the system, stick a good sized screwdriver into it, and stir it around real hard. Then, dump all the bedding into the garbage, and install it back into the system. Probably Wouldn't work so good on anything after first gen trucks, but he DID do it to his 86 Hilux. Seemed to run fine afterwards.
This was in Yuma, and they don't have the testing some places do. The air quality, which they always measure during harvest, and planting, seasons, is lousy. Right when the farmers just happen to be plowing massive quantities of dust and dirt up into the air. And then they wonder why Yuma has such a terrible air quality rating...

Have fun all!
Pat☺