panheaddav

Ok guys i'm back, still have no spark. So for xmas my daughter asked if we could take it to a shop to find the problem, after i worked on it 4 a month off + on. We took it to a good shop out here, they had it over a month and could'nt fig it out either. called me to tow back home. said they couldnt remember the last time they had to make that call, did'nt charge me a thing. So this is where i'm at. Now remember when she got it, it did run barely. so it had spark, of course that was b4 i started working on it!( "take that how u will") I've replaced the igniter,coil,distr,plugs,wires,fuel pump + filter,air fil,egr valve-modulator + sensor,charcoal can,vac valve switch,injectors+pigtails,sender switch,catalytic converter,airflow meter(MAF),02,throttle pos,coolant temp,sender switch,knock sensors. replaced all hoses and timing belt, that's all i can think of right now. ok this was the 1st timing overhead cam belt i've done.(alot of chevy-ford timing chains) Now i'm prob wrong here, but even if i got the belt off a tooth or so, would'nt it still spark + just run like crap or not run at all but still have spark ? Or was that only in the old days b4 the computer + sensor crap. I must b missing or missed something. i pulled the timing cover back off and checked it, on comp stroke at 0 on timing mark, distr + cam gears lined up- can't see crank. That's the next thing i'm going to do is pull the pump an lower timing cover off an check it again. Anymore input from you guys would be great. Thanks

92ehatch

It will still spark with the timing off slightly. But from your post the timing sounds fine

I didn't see where you mentioned what engine you have.

Assuming is v6 since you said belt

panheaddav

sorry, it's a 3.0, auto, 2 wheel drive, 4 door. 1 more thing, with the ign on should i have 12v on 1 of the 4 wires going to the distributor? i have it at the coil , igniter and the MAF, but nothing at the distributor. Thanks

scope103

No. (NE, G-, G1, G2).

Did you do any of the tests I offered in your other post? https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/no-spark-292031/ I don't have anything new to offer.

panheaddav

thats what the shop was suppose to do, i even gave them a copy of your post. But i think i'd better check them to make sure. they had 4 of there machanic's check it while they had it, so he wasnt sure who had checked what. I made a copy 4 me too i just havent had the time to go threw it . We just got it back a week ago and i've spent most of the time putting everything they pulled apart back together. Take's alot longer 2 fig out where what go when you didnt pull it apart your self. Thanks again, i'l let you know as soon as i test everything.

panheaddav

Hey Scope I finally hope i found the problem(i hope). after pulling the air intake etc looking for something i may have forgot or bad wire connection. i opened the ECU because the part # label is missing. i fig'd i'd look for a number on the board. everything looked ok, but i couldnt get a good look between the boards, so i pulled them out of the case and found one of the copper foil wires or whatever its called was blown out. not sure what it went to but im guessing had something to do with the spark. now if i can find out what # i need, thats going to be a pain. Toyota was no help or just didnt want to take the time to find out for me. its a 4x2 so there gonna be fewer of them. couldnt even tell me what years fit what. just looking on ebay some say 89 to 95 are interchangable as long as its 3.0 4x2 auto etc. and some say they re not. the #s on the board are 175031-3871 and U00715115A. toyota's parts guys said they were no help. you got anything for me? thanks

scope103

You can use this site to locate the computer you (most likely) need. http://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/ There are other dealer sites; the ones that start with your VIN are even easier to use when you're looking for parts for your own truck.

Foil traces on PCBs (Printed Circuit Boards) CAN be repaired; it's not even that hard. The problem is that it failed for a reason; something somewhere on the board failed and shorted out the trace. ECMs aren't that hard to find used; you just need to get the right part number.

panheaddav

thanks for all your input


























i

panheaddav

Ok I replaced the computer and I have spark. It runs but still has no power. plugs are black running rich. and it smells like fuel at exhaust. also had a new cat and flowmaster muff put on. They did a pressure check too to check pressure before the cross over pipie. When i pulled the plugs to check them, i went ahead + turned it over a few times I could smell the gas pretty bad.Now the air cleaners off so I shouldnt be getting any fuel to the injectors right? So like my first post, it was running when we got it(missing bad but had power) then the more it ran the power kept dropping. which was a the crap in the tank that clogged the filter and injectors. so I'm stuck again. Thanks -------- Ok a couple of vac lines were switched. now its running alittle better, but the dist is all the way advaned(no more adjustment) for it to run hafh way decent. still popping and sputtering. not as rich as before. but still not right. could i have the dist off a tooth? Thanks for any input.