my truck has a 22re motor in it. it has amelted piston. what motor can i use as a replacement for this truck? can i use the 84-84 celica 22re? can i use a 22r from like a 84-84 trk.? or do i have to stay with a 85-95 toyota truck motor?
i need to know this tonight as for i am going to salvage yard in the morning

 

Do you have emissions inspection in your area?

If so, you will probably need to stick to the 22RE. If not, 22R should work, and you can get rid of all the electronic PITAs! LOL

 

pm'd ya

 

so the celica motor will work? what years will work with my fuel injection..as for emissions..thats not a big deal

 

It's not a big deal until you don't pass and can't get plates! Stick to a 22RE then. (22R would probably be harder to come by anyways)

 

i found every damn motor but a 85-95 22re...that why i wanted to know what will fit in my truck.

 

what you want is the long block(engine minus the manifolds) from any '85-95 2wd truck. celicas and 4x4s and 4runners will work too but you'll have to swap oil pans and pickup tubes with your engine. just take your manifolds and distributor off the blown engine, and swap them onto the new one. that'll avoid any problems with different connectors over the years etc.

 

thank you my friend..you are a god. as for me..kinda new to the yotas..i have been a ford and honda man for years. but fugg the blue oval and hondas are all overpriced. begining to think the same about the toyota's

 

ok guys..i came home with a complete motor and a shortblock. i was in heaven with the complete motor. it came out of a 84 celica. but,when i got it home and on the engine stand...i pulled the intake and exhaust manifold off of it. then i pulled the oil pan and my day turned to ลลลล...i found the center crank bearing (thrust bearing) laying in the oil pan. the crank will move front to back damn near 1/2 "
i pulled the main cap off and the crank was wearing against the block and the main cap. there is no groove in there anymore to hold the thrust spacer...damn the luck.

so i have to take it back tomorrow.
now to the short block,...it seems no-one new why it was there. i pulled the pistons out of it and pieces of the rings were broken on 2 of the pistons.but the cylinder walls are all ok. they just need a quick honing. i checked the bearings and they all look new. i think the ring seized from just sitting.

here is my question????
the rod bearings are stamped 0.25
the mains are stamped 0.25

on the top of the pistons..they are stamped .75
what is the .75 for on the piston tops?
i know the mains and rods are 0.25 oversized

 

the .25 is metric, translates to about .010 under. .75 is 3/4 of a mm oversized, about .030. that engine has been rebuilt at least once, sounds like they weren't paying attention to the ring gap. definitely rebuildable, the rods and mains still have plenty of meat on them, and the block will take a 1mm(.040) bore without flinching. i'd just do it for reassurance seeing as it had broken rings.

what year short block is it? if the pistons have a slight dish and valve reliefs it's the one you want. the '84 celica motor is a little less desirable for an EFI application, as you'd have to come up with your own knock sensor mounting and the exhaust manifold is different.

 

ok guys..i just got the block magna-fluxed,cooked and honed. i had the crank checked and polished. i had the head checked and decked and then cooked.
i just ordered a master rebuild kit with the 268c cam from engine builder. i pick up my block,crank and head tomorrow. will keep you all posted.

what would be a good color combo to paint my fresh motor? any pics of other motors or ideas guys?

 

Silver with red "R" is good for at least 50RWHP

 

Hey thats not nice Tc, after all this guy sounds like he is doing it right.

I vote for black on black.

 

i like a ford blue or bright red -- helps you notice leaks right away, especially on the blue since an antifreeze leak turns BRIGHT green, and oil leaks are very noticable.

 

Ive seen a lot of fords with oil leaks!

 

i opted for the red/orange for the chevy's....and damn it is bright.

 

american manufacturers have just recently been getting out of the dark ages of 2 piece rear main seals and multi-part oilpan gaskets. i was at napa today picking up a rear main seal kit for my truck, since i'm doing a clutch job this weekend. he pulls the thing out of the box and goes "wow, this thing's set up just like those new generation chevy small blocks." i say yeah, nice to see they've caught on after toyota has used the same 1 piece seal setup for about 40 years!

 

ok guys..i just got my engine kit this morning. i had some time pressing out the connecting rod bushings and putting the new ones in. then they had to be honed to fit. then i thought just for ลลลลs and giggles..why don't i check the weight on my pistons. they were all within 1 gram of each other. i was really surprised,for such a cheap rebuild kit..the pistons are excellant. then i weighed the connecting rods..WOW :pat: , i am glad i did that. they were like 11-16 grams differance. so i took the lightest rod and balanced the other 3 to within 1 gram.then assembled the pistons on the rods with the rings installed..and weighed em all again. they are all with 1 gram.i am going to start the assembly tomorrow.i will take pics, and then maybe upload em to yahoo for you guys to take a peek. bottom line...22re..bored .030 over with the 268c cam. how do you think it will run in a 2wd shortbed truck?
will keep you all posted.