90 4runner trans removal help
#1
90 4runner trans removal help
Hello everyone. I have been looking for a while but couldnt find enough information on how to drop the trans on my 90 4runner v6 4x4. I find little thinga here and there but wanted to see if anybody knows where to find a complete write up on the removal. First time dropping a trans but ive got a buddy and his dad helping me just wanted to see if there was a step by step with possibly pics. Thank you for any help!
#2
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First, you need to know what flavor it is? Do you have a clutch? You might have a manual transmission.
Look on the door pillar for the model number of the transmission you have.
Look on the door pillar for the model number of the transmission you have.
#3
knowing if it's an Auto or Stick helps a lot, auto = PITA
i know when i have dropped transmissions I have good intentions of taking pics but tend to have to do it by myself so priority is just getting the job done
a haynes or chilton book might be worth taking a peek at.
Renting a transmission jack makes life easy
Last edited by dropzone; 09-11-2017 at 09:24 AM.
#5
I just pulled mine out yesterday out of my 95 4Runner. Couple tips, starter bolts: top bolt is on the transmission side but the bottom bolt is on the engine side. Use a long extension and a universal. One person guide it on to the bolt and the other work the ratchet.
Torque converter bolts: I put a bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt and turned the engine to access them one at a time. It may be helpful to have someone rotate it and then hold onto the bar while the other person loosens the 6 bolts.
Take off the kickdown cable from the throttle body before trying to drop the tranny.
I left the exhaust alone but it would have been a lot easier if I had pulled the section of pipe that bolts from the manifold to the cat. That allows the tranny to move over to the driver side to clear the front diff. I used one floor jack under the pan and one under the crossmember and it worked really well.
The top bellhousing bolts were the hardest. I got 2 24" extension with a universal between them and then another universal on the 17mm socket. I turned the front wheels to the right in order to be able to see the bolt and work my hand up there to help guide it on. And then turned them left to do the pass side.
Don't take apart the shift levers, just undo all the bolts on the floor plate portion and disconnect the linkage where the cotter pins connect them together and it will pull out the top.
I disconnected the cooler lines at the transmission on the passenger side and just unbolted the bracket for the transfer case cooler and it all came down together.
Torque converter bolts: I put a bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt and turned the engine to access them one at a time. It may be helpful to have someone rotate it and then hold onto the bar while the other person loosens the 6 bolts.
Take off the kickdown cable from the throttle body before trying to drop the tranny.
I left the exhaust alone but it would have been a lot easier if I had pulled the section of pipe that bolts from the manifold to the cat. That allows the tranny to move over to the driver side to clear the front diff. I used one floor jack under the pan and one under the crossmember and it worked really well.
The top bellhousing bolts were the hardest. I got 2 24" extension with a universal between them and then another universal on the 17mm socket. I turned the front wheels to the right in order to be able to see the bolt and work my hand up there to help guide it on. And then turned them left to do the pass side.
Don't take apart the shift levers, just undo all the bolts on the floor plate portion and disconnect the linkage where the cotter pins connect them together and it will pull out the top.
I disconnected the cooler lines at the transmission on the passenger side and just unbolted the bracket for the transfer case cooler and it all came down together.
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Here's the FSM on removal: http://web.archive.org/web/201408160...39removala.pdf
As you can see, Toyota doesn't think there's much to it. Combine this with Yotard's tips. On reinstallation, you're going to need to know all the specified torques.
Despite Yotard's success, I would certainly pick up a transmission jack, as dropzone suggests. They aren't even that expensive to buy. I'd sure drop $100 to avoid dropping a transmission on my hand.
As you can see, Toyota doesn't think there's much to it. Combine this with Yotard's tips. On reinstallation, you're going to need to know all the specified torques.
Despite Yotard's success, I would certainly pick up a transmission jack, as dropzone suggests. They aren't even that expensive to buy. I'd sure drop $100 to avoid dropping a transmission on my hand.
Last edited by scope103; 09-11-2017 at 10:32 PM.
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#8
So i was removing the bolts on the driveshaft on the transfer case and the bolts on the front came out easy but the rear bolts nuts came off but the bolts will not come out. Are those bad boys threaded in there or should they have just come right out?
#9
I'm not sure what you mean by front and rear but all of the bolts for the drive shafts are the same I just disconnected the front drive shaft from the differential then pulled it off the transfer case once it was out of the truck. I haven't had my front sway bar in years so you may have to drop that to get it out of the way as well. However the bolts are still the same coming off the transfer case as they are off the differential they are just tougher to get to with the cardan joint.
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It's just trying to keep you from removing the driveshaft before you put on Matchmarks.
Here's what Toyota has to say: http://web.archive.org/web/201204171.../3propelle.pdf
Here's what Toyota has to say: http://web.archive.org/web/201204171.../3propelle.pdf
#11
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This is a good thread. The quality of the responses is impressive. What a great resource! I will be referring back to this thread when I pull the A340H auto tranny out of my '89 4runner this winter. Thanks.