89 Toyota Pickup Power Steering Issues Now Won't Start
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
89 Toyota Pickup Power Steering Issues Now Won't Start
So the other day i found a bunch of power steering fluid under the front diver's side of my truck. Popped the hood and it looked like it was coming from the power steering gear box. Upon investigation I found a leak in the hose from the , I believe return line, in the rubber part of the hose, so I patched that and I will get a new hose. I had to remove the air intake to do this, and I did unplug the ignither, but re connected and is seated properly. After re-installation of the air intake, it won't start. It starts up and then dies after about 2 seconds. It actually has a healthier sounding start now than it did before which is interesting, it just won't stay running. Anyone have any idea what could be going on? It's a:
89 Toyota Pickup
3VZE
Thanks!
The hose clamp at the steering gear was loose so i tightened that but it still leaked
And there's the leak
89 Toyota Pickup
3VZE
Thanks!
The hose clamp at the steering gear was loose so i tightened that but it still leaked
And there's the leak
#2
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Did you disconnect the connector to the VAF? "Starts and runs for 2 seconds" is the classic sign of a VAF-COR problem. If the intake plumbing is not connected, or if the connector to the VAF isn't seated, the FC switch in the VAF won't be able to hold the COR closed and keep the fuel pump running.
#3
Registered User
No Start
Hi.
How did you remove the VAF plug when you removed the air intake?
There are two methods.
1.) Remove the rectangular wire bail clip that holds the rectangular plug on to the VAF.(proper method)
2.) Remove the screws that hold the VAF plug together, which will allow the plug to come off, but will break the delicate connections to the inner workings, and give you the symptoms that you have. (improper method)
Sorry for the run-on sentence, but I used method #2 about 15 years ago when I rebuilt the 3VZ motor in my first Runner and had the exact same problem.
If you used method #2, you can repair the VAF, but it requires that you GENTLY remove the cover on the top of the unit by cutting the sealant around the edge.
You will then have access to the innards, and can see if there is any damage to the plug connections.
Fix accordingly
Good Luck.
Art.
How did you remove the VAF plug when you removed the air intake?
There are two methods.
1.) Remove the rectangular wire bail clip that holds the rectangular plug on to the VAF.(proper method)
2.) Remove the screws that hold the VAF plug together, which will allow the plug to come off, but will break the delicate connections to the inner workings, and give you the symptoms that you have. (improper method)
Sorry for the run-on sentence, but I used method #2 about 15 years ago when I rebuilt the 3VZ motor in my first Runner and had the exact same problem.
If you used method #2, you can repair the VAF, but it requires that you GENTLY remove the cover on the top of the unit by cutting the sealant around the edge.
You will then have access to the innards, and can see if there is any damage to the plug connections.
Fix accordingly
Good Luck.
Art.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
alright alright I'm an idiot I overlooked that the hose wasn't secured where it connects near the throttle body. I re-secured and tightened down the clamps and it starts right up. Ok so but now I fixed the power steering leak, and it still whines and the wheel is still extremely hard to turn. It has enough fluid in the reservoir, but it is definitely foamy, I assume from the leak. Do I just need to flush the system? Or is the pump bad?
#5
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Thread Starter
I actually didn't remove the plug when i took the intake out.. partially because i couldn't get it off! I just removed the hose where it connects to the y-coupler right before going into the throttle body. I forgot I had loosened that and so when I re connected it and re-tightened down the hose clamp it started right up.!
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok so I fixed the leak...then there were bubbles in the system and loud whine coming form the pump location and it was extremely hard to turn the wheel. I figured there was probably air in the system so I just flushed the fluid and replaced with fresh and there are no leaks and the system is nice and quiet! However, it's still extremely hard to turn as if there's no power steering. Whats going on? Is the pump bad? Is it the gearbox?
#7
Registered User
Ok so I fixed the leak...then there were bubbles in the system and loud whine coming form the pump location and it was extremely hard to turn the wheel. I figured there was probably air in the system so I just flushed the fluid and replaced with fresh and there are no leaks and the system is nice and quiet! However, it's still extremely hard to turn as if there's no power steering. Whats going on? Is the pump bad? Is it the gearbox?
Basically the Haynes Manual states:
Jack up the car, put it on jack stands.
add fluid to the Reservoir until it is at the correct level
withe engine off, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and right 2-3 times.
recheck res add fluid if necessary.
start the engine and turn the wheel 2-3 times, engine should be running below 1000rpm
Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle. With it now on the floor, turn the wheel 2-3 times
Return the steering wheel to center position.
Now check that the fluid is not cloudy or foamy while the engine is running
That should be the way to properly bleed the system, my guess is theres still air in the gearbox. That or your PS pump is trashed and you'll need to replace it as well.
I just replaced my PS pump and as soon as I did my High Pressure line started leaking. Probably because it was old and need replacing anyway and the new pump puts more pressure on the system.
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