just did most of the body work today and still got more, i wasnt too sure how to remove the bed to be able to paint the back of the cabin so any info helps and heres some pix
before


During


Had to use a screw-in dent puller on this one

end of day 1


more pics comin i hope

 

Looking good on the body work so far. I wish I knew how to do that, I'll just add it to my list of things to learn......with Welding, playing guitar, and automotive painting (I'm good with the rattle can approach). As far as removing the bed, if you get under the truck's bed you should see I believe it was 4 (may 6) bolts that you can undo. You will also need to be careful of the fuel filler neck, spare tire if you still have it, and electrical for the tail lights. Make sure you measure the top and bottom gap between the cab and the bed on BOTH sides, as this will make it easier to to then reposition your bed back onto your frame.

I'm sure someone will chime in with more exact instructions but if you look at it you'll see it is pretty straight forward.

-=Morphine=-

 

Ok i think i found, it looks like there were six, 3 on each side heres the pics
1
2
3

I think thats all of em??

 

Heres some engine pix for fun


Entire engine bay


msd coil


msd wires, and crankcase breather filter


Intake with spectre parts and K&N filter, I ordered an afm from a supra imma put that on monday or tues so but for now its the stock afm


I drilled and painted the ps pulley myself for fun and i used red caliper paint cuz it can handle high heat


Yeah and those are the mods so far i did a lil more tweaks to it but thats for another day. peace foooos

 

*correction, it is an afm from a 1982 celica supra last 5 digits of part # is 43110

 

before all the mods to the engine

D:




Boooooooooooo....haha

 

Hey I was wondering what all you had to do to perform the battery swap. Did u have to lengthen the battery cables? and are u seeing any performance advantages?

 

you guys with out rust are the incredibly lucky. Hope you know that. If that was a VT truck, all those bed bolts would have to be torched off.

 

If that was a NH truck you'd have to,...... Well they just would never come off

 

Yeah 4yoter I believe I used a 6 foot battery cable to extend it to the other side of the engine bay. I also had to remove the wiring (very very carefully) for the afm from the little plastic hose it was in and i had to extend that around to the other side so i could move the afm over. I also had to buy an adapter to attach to the afm so i could fit the 3" filter on it. With this upgrade I probally got a good 6 or 7 horsepower but there was a big difference in the way it drove, 1. it was loud as hell 2. the engine felt and drove smoother 3. It allowed the engine to rev up to higher rpms without losing power 4. solved the problem of my engine surging all for like 150 bucks and about 5 or 6 hours. 5. And now when i hit the throttle it takes off like a rocket

 

Oh and yeah the bolts are a lil rusty, but i think me and my trusty can of wd-40 can do it