I've used it on my 92 Runner without any ill affects. Put it through the brake booster vacuum line and in the fuel tank. I've never used it in the crank case before.

 

May have to do this one meself... thanks for the good write-up.

 

You're welcome. And your truck looks just like mine! Well, except my rear springs sag. Oh, and my rear bumper is all bent up. And I don't have a shell. But other than that...

 

I am going to be doing this soon also. As far as bleeding the system, did you just follow the FSM instructions?

 

Yes. With the front on jackstands, engine running, turn the steering wheel from stop to stop slowly. Five to ten times should be enough. Check the fluid level and you shouldn't see bubbles or foaming with the engine running. I've bled steering on several vehicles and have never had a problem.

Definitely do this--well worth it. Take care and have a good day,
Bugs

 

Bugs & others,
How many miles on your truck? My 92 3VZE'd truk has 181k on it. The front pulley seal has been leaking for about a year, I just keep adding fluid. I'm the 2nd owner and both the original and I have taken good care of it. That and I don't see any other sources of leaks. (OK, just found a coolant leak at the coolant outlet flange today, but I'm buying that gasket today/tomorrow-the horizontal surface where the block meets the aluminum elbow that then attaches to the upper rad hose.)

Of course, w/ the P/S pump rebuild kit only costing $30 or so, I might buy it just for the front shaft seal as it's $20 from NAPA.

Do you, or anyone else think I should rebuild the pump now, or just replace the leaking seal and leave the rest alone? I Brakleen'd the entire thing a long time ago to find my leak, and it looks as though the only leak is the pulley shaft seal, no other visible leaks. (I make sure to check the level every week, so as not to run low, but the mess it's made on my RT FT suspension/etc screams to me to at LEAST replace the leaky seal.

Thanks,
Dave

 

Mine has about 179,000 miles on it, though my pump seems to be leaking from the rear. It is sort of hard to tell as the whole thing and everything below it is a mess. I'd replace all the seals while you got the thing out, why do it twice? It's only a matter of time.

 

Yep, what he said. I rebuilt my Mother in Law's a few years ago with about 150,000 miles and mine with about 230,000 miles, although I only had the truck for 6 months and it was leaking bad when I got it. Yours will start to leak from the reservoir o-ring and rear seal before too long. Take care,
Bugs

 

Yet another power steering success story! Did the job Tuesday evening, in the past two days I've driven about 40 miles highway+stop and go in 90 degree weather. Not a drop.

Hardest part was getting the pulley nut off and the pressure union bolt off.. that one was stuck on there good, ended up breaking the pressure union port lose from the pump instead. Then had to remove the reservoir to be able to get a wrench on the union port. The pulley bolt was nothing a rolled up towel under the belt and a BFH to the end of a breaker bar couldn't handle.

 

Good work! Both the pumps I've rebuilt are completely leak free and working great.
Bugs

 

i just had a mechanic rebuild the power steering pump and replace the pulley with a new one

$267


i probably would have done it myself if it were not 104*F outside

 

Does running the pump dry or continuos leaking affect the pressure system operating the anti-braking unit located at passenger side rear wheel?
Toyota Service say Dealer is the only one to recalibrate/bleed the Anti-braking sytem unit(brain).

 

Getting pulley (or any bolts off for that matter) is not my problem... getting pulley itself off without bending it or causing other damage is... fool thing seems seized on... any ideas?

 

Have you tried a gear puller and alot of PB or silmilar freeing agent? Im getting ready to do this procedure myself this weekend and was wondering about the pully myself.Is it on a tapered shaft or just key and bolt ?

 

I have gotten stuck pulleys off using a pickle fork (only one tong of the fork) between the pulley hub and the housing, right next to the shaft. Light taps on one side of the pulley and then the other using only one tong of the fork at a time. A tapered chisel would probably do the same thing.

 

A gear puller will bend the pulley. I would definitely not use one.

Let us know what works for you. Thanks,
Bugs

 

I thought about a small pickle fork but was worried I might mess up the pump housing...
I'll have to give it a go... I have a spare pump that I was going to rebuild and use...
have to get the parts kit and get on it...

 

I've had good luck with a pickle fork. You don't have to hit it hard--just tap on one side and then the other and the pulley will move evenly. A little at a time.

 

Did any of you who have replaced you PS Pump - Flushed the system beforehand? My pump seems to go out like clockwork every 6 months. My Tech friend down here said to flush the PS system (Taking one of the hoses off to drain into an oil catcher) BEFORE I install a new PS pump. The theory is that there is all sorts of grit and shavings in there that corrode the pump a lot faster than normal.

Flush Write-ups are here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ing-flush.html
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/3...ng-post-81347/

 

I still have to rebuild my ps one of these days...