YotaFreakTN

I have a 1989 4x4 DLX, purchased the truck in February and have been doing some minor patching here and there. Currently it has 196k miles and I am unsure of the POs upkeep of the truck. As I replaced the TPS Saturday and realized that my intake is a cess pool of carbon that $200 dollars worth of seafoam wouldn't touch on a good day.

Recently I won a trip to Montana, courtesy of Copenhagen, and they instead decided to give me a check for the value of the trip rather than me traveling with a guest to Montana. So, now I have almost $5k of excess funds and I'm trying to decide on whether just to keep patching or completely rebuild the engine.

Regarding the body and suspension on the truck it is in exceptional condition and I have only had to replace some bushings here and there.

Driveline is a w56 trans, rf1a tfc, and factory gearing. 33x12.5.15.

Now on to the topic I'm most interested in, where to spend the money. I'm not new to wrenching and have all the tools that would be possibly needed to undertake the task of rebuilding the engine, I'm more curious in getting input on parts that I have found online.

#1, I will be using ARP fasteners as much as possible.
Head Stud Kit #203-4201
Connecting Rod Bolts #203-6002
Main Studs #203-5406
Flywheel Bolts #203-2803
Any further part numbers or suggestions for ARP fasteners would be greatly appreciated, Exhaust stud set?

#2, I'm drawn like a kid in a candy store to the LCE Dual Row Timing kit, #1015012. Has anyone used this? What are the quality of the oil and h20 pump in this kit? Any clearance issues? Are the guides steel? The description is sketchy on the guides.

#3, EngnBldr Street RV head with 268C cam and manganese bronze guides.

#4, LCE, 22r Hypereutectic Gapless Pistons and ring set with wrist pins.

#5, LCE, chromoly rods toy journals, #1013198.

#6, LCE, pro crank with toy journals, #1013036

#7, Clevite, ms-1590P Main and cb-1218p Rod bearings

#8, BIG QUESTION, engnbldr or LCE gasket set?

#9, Marlin, 1600lb clutch kit, aisin slave and master.

#10, LCE, underdrive set, brass freeze plugs, and headers.

I have a reputable shop to take care of my block and intake. What am I forgetting? Any comments on part choices? I don't want to have to do this lord willing for another 150k miles. Thanks in advance for comments and input.

PismoJoe

Thats an expensive route for not building a stroker

If you want to save some hard earned, do away with LCE's pistons, crank, etc, I would only go that route strictly for a stroker. Otherwise, your soft of just wasting money because it won't really help performance like you would think.

All that LC is doing to that crank is giving you a good used one that has been ground back to proper specs. Chances are you're crank can be ground as well by your local shop for way less $$$

Do you wheel? 1600lb pressure plate would get old for a DD, if you don't wheel I wouldn't go past 1200lbs.

Go OEM for gaskets, again LCE is just $$$$$

Dual row kits are nice, but again not really worth it. Don't forget that you still have to purchase LCE's custom timing cover to fit this, more $$$$. You're better off bang for your buck getting an ENGNBLDR timing kit w/ steel rail and an LCE adjustable timing gear.

ARP's are nice, not needed for a stock build, but I wouldn't go past the head bolts. Your stock crank cap bolts will work fine, and LCE has very reasonably priced flywheel and intake bolts.

I suggest looking at LCE's build in the prerunner in this months issue of off road magazine. They did what you listed and more and only pumped 25 more hp. You could get close to that with a stock bottom end, ENGNBLDR street rv head and 268C Torkr cam, and an LCE header. Just saying....but it sounds like you really need to look into that or building a stroker.

YotaFreakTN

Wow, hadn't looked at LCE's stroker kits to any detail. How much is truly gained in going the stroker route? I would imagine the driveability would decrease.

I'm getting more into wheeling and do not do a lot of city driving, so I'm certain the 1600lb clutch kit won't get too bad. Any opinion on a new heavier flywheel?

I would have to agree on the OEM gaskets after looking at several of the build posts regarding OEM gaskets vs aftermarket.

As far as ARP fasteners, I'm looking at about $275 from summitt, and I sure don't want to reuse the old fasteners after 21 years of unverifiable service. Being an industrial electrician I've seen what heat and age can do to fasteners over a long period of time, and it would be a worth while upgrade versus off brand fasteners.

PismoJoe

Well I'll put this way

Are you familiar with toyotas 2.4L 2RZ-FE and the 2.7L 3RZ-FE? That extra .3L is strictly from the stroke. Roughly 20 more hp alone from just that aspect.

Drivability if done right should still be pretty dependable. If your machinist looks at you like your from another planet when you talk about stroke change, you might want to find another shop lol

For the bolts, you do have a point, but I think you will be very surprised when you crack open your engine. Mine had 235k on the clock and looked like a rolex inside...(not the cylinders and rings though lol) Fasteners are optional, but head bolts I would change for sure.

I would leave the flywheel alone, just get a new one. Don't waste your time with getting it turned, it will only save you $20 at best. I hear very good things about the 1200lb from people who do city/trail driving. 1600lb I would get strictly for wheeling.

PismoJoe

Just noticed you're running 33's with most likely 4.10's? Do away with some of the LC stuff and get some gears

YotaFreakTN

I've been looking at gears and lockers. Dunno too much about lockers other than the fact that with open diffs I've been getting peeved quite regularly lately. Although I just stumbled upon this, http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/1778134613.html . Which may negate me rebuilding just yet and purchasing a Toy truck and having a DD as well.

T_F_E

With 5 grand I would buy another truck and build it strictly for offroad and then keep your DD. Its a lot easier to work on a dedicated truck and you can keep working as funds come in.