Hey all,

Just got this '88 4runner last week. 3vze auto trans, but it was free so cant really complain! Long story short I was told it has a blown HG, and last sticker on the plate is 2009. It comes with a spare motor out of a '89 (I believe) that we will go through and freshen up. The frame still has the rubber plugs in it, and from the drain holes it looks like new inside! Got good 31x10.50's on it.

Couple issues noticed off the bat.

1. Centre console (along with switches) are missing, as well as both driver and passenger kick panels, and radio.

2. Missing 4 bolts for the rear top, and the rest were loose. Tightened them up, doesent look like its been leaking though.

3. Since I am missing said switches and console, I cant get the rear window to roll down. Kind of a pain because now I cant get the tailgate open.

4. Blower motor is not working, and neither are the front power windows or doors locks. Not sure where the fuses/relays would be to check this?

5. Obviously the engine doesn't run, I am going to replace the fuel pump and clean tank, then test that.
The wiring appears to be intact for the most part. No chewed wires anyway.

I think the game plan for this truck is to first rid the interior of the ants that have taken up residence in there. Then I would like to get the windows operation if possible. Also, while messing with those things I plan on dropping the fuel tank to do a proper tank cleaning, and to replace the fuel pump and filter. Then I will see if the old engine will run. I dont expect much....radiator is bone dry lol. If it will run long enough to test the trans I'd be happy.

A few things I'm gonna need....
1. Centre console
2. Switches that go in the centre console so I can test the windows

If anyone has ideas, suggestions, or any help it is greatly appreciated! If you have some of these parts I need please let me know!

Thanks

 

Nice score !! You going to need the switch for the rear window. You said you were missing hard top bolts. The 3rd bolt from the rear on the drivers side has a switch that allows the window to go up and down. You also have to make sure the rear window wiper is all the way up in the retracted position. There is also a rear gate latch switch that needs to be working. Toyota sure built these with safety in mind It also appears that a good high speed buff job will make that beauty shine.

 

Here is a link to an 88 22R-E FSM. Go down almost to the bottom of the pdf to the Body Electrical section (BE). Better download it since online fsm's are hard to find. https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/f...nViUk5RdllGUFU

 

Here’s an ebay seller who probably has what you need. I see he has a window switch listed.
seller:hailey07231990

his prices are kind of high but negotiable and reasonable if you are buying several things. Ive bought lots of stuff from him. He always takes care and rectifies any probs quickly.

you truck looks like it will be great with just some elbow grease. I cant wait to see “after” photos.

 

it was mentioned above about the interlocks for the tailgate, but you should be able to apply power directly to the motor under get it to roll down if you just have to open it I believe.

 

That's right. Just need a screwdriver to remove the rear door panel and 12V and a couple alligator clip leads to power the window motor in the correct polarity for down.

 

Didn't read the entire thread, but if you climb into the bed, unscrew the little light cover (and turn it on from the front) (I forget what it's called, deck light?) you now have 12V
Then you unscrew the cover of the tailgate, set aside.
Theeen you unhook the actual motor and grab a length of cable.

Remove the sofTITte bulb and wire it up. either it will go down, or up. Switch cables 180° depending on what you want.


The German Toyota Slogan used to be (for a very long time) "Nichts ist unmöglich." - Which translates to "Nothing is impossible."

 

Sounds better than my method of running jumper cables from the battery in the side window!

 

Yeah I think I need to start by buying a switch, then going down the line till I get everything working and the window rolling down as it should. Is this bolt a special length to activate the switch?

Yes, I am not too familiar with bodywork but I think it will clean up nice! It does have one spot with rust on the drivers rear quarter panel. There is a hole and soft section there, but that appears to be the only area with any real rust.

Do you have any tips on troubleshooting to get the front windows to operate?

Thanks!! I already found a manual archived from NCTTORA, but will check yours and download if needed! You were right about them being hard to find hehe. Had to do some digging to find that one.

Thanks for the recommendation. He does indeed have the correct switch, but holy smokes! $70 plus shipping!?!? Thats a bit much if you ask me. Its just a simple switch!! I could see maybe $30 tops?? Will have to keep looking, hopefully I can find someone with a spare I can get for a reasonable price.

Will definitely post pics as we go. Considering starting an actual build thread for this truck.

Thank you for the tips. But I am slightly confused....whats a "sofTITte bulb"?? Light bulb?? You're saying to wire it through the little cargo bay light housing??

If anyone has tips on diagnosing the front 2 electric windows I would appreciate help on them as well. I love Toyota, but man....I hate 30 yr old electric windows. Gimme a crank and manual locks any day lol.

Thanks for all the help so far. I'll try and get some better pics of the rest of the truck up too.

 

On my 88 I had to remove the window switches and take them apart and clean the contacts with sand paper. You will need some small flat head screw drivers, like the jewelers kind. Do it over a towel because there are small parts in there. The little metal rocker thingies only go in one way, so it's pretty easy to figure out, just be careful with the plastic tabs. I had to tap the drivers window motor with a hammer to get it moving again.

 

I forgot to mention that for the hard top I didn't see any difference in the bolt length. I don't think the previous owners ever took the top off. There was not a scratch on any of the bolts. I just put my top back on last weekend and no issues with my window.

 

Ok good to know thanks!

Alright, will look into this. Might pull the door panel and check. Do you know where the fuses are for the power windows?

 

Went up to Kansas to look at the parts truck today. Forgot to check the VIN so idk what year it is. It's a 3.0 auto 4x4, with auto locking hubs. I pulled the kick panels and ash tray hoping they would fit the 4runner but no dice. I guess they mount different than the 4runner. Anyway it's got 145k miles on it. Super rough but should be good for parts. Handy to have a lower mileage trans as a spare.

 

So I did a compression test on the old motor today. Results were scary lol. I could hear when it cranked over that it had no compression on one cylinder, and sure enough #6 was toast. Also #6 was one of the most hammered spark plugs I've seen. IDK if it dropped a valve or what....piston still moves.

 

Also took the switch apart and got the power locks working. Likely need to buy new switches as the windows won't work. I think I broke a spring inside the switch itself while disassembling.

And we found that the windshield is leaking slightly on the top passenger side. I really hope it's not full of rust under that metal trim.......

Any tips for resealing it?

 

Anyone??