88 22re

 

I have a Haynes manual and have tested every related sensor. They all check out except for the resistor box on the passenger fender well. I know it has something to do with the injectors, and the resistance was 3.5 ohms vs. the 3.0 ohms specified in the manual. I didn't think too much of it, but that could possibly be my issue?
I swapped ignitors and there was no change. I haven't pulled the harness and cut it open, but I think that may be my next step. Is there a way to check the ground that bolts to the intake manifold?

 

I've never tested that resistor box, not sure what it's supposed to read.

download the Toyota fsm, and look at the wiring diagram... I believe that there is a single master ground wire that all of the injectors are tied to, and it goes back to the cpu box, I can't remember if it's the same ground wire that bolts up to the intake...

have you unplugged the vacuum line on the top of the egr, and blocked it off? that should disable the egr, unless the egr is stuck open... the engine won't idle, or it'll barely idle, if the egr is open.

there should be a ground wire going from the neg post on the battery to the block, and a ground wire from the back of the head to the body, and a third ground wire tying in somewhere above the alternator, if I remember correctly... check all those.

if you cut open the harness, start at the plastic elbow area where it makes a sharp bend into the intake... but that's a last resort, because fixing it correctly requires a big soldering iron, shrink wrap, at least two different types of electricians tape, and plenty of high-quality replacement wire... in my case, the big ground wire to the injectors had corroded a couple of feet down the harness, towards the cab :-/ I got tired of stripping back the harness, so I finally just sanded down the bare wire strands, and used plumbers flux to try and clean it, then solder in the replacement wire... not an ideal situation.

Toyota wire is super high quality stuff, if you can source another engine harness, i'd lay it out on a big piece of cardboard, trace all the paths onto the cardboard, then start stripping it down... worst case is that if it's no good, you can use it for replacement wire... you want the paths for when you have to wrap it up again, so you'll know to not wrap it up too far... it needs to fork off in all the right lengths.

here are a couple of other ideas for testing:
http://forums.off-road.com/toyota-su...1300rpm-2.html
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...fpart=all&vc=1

 

It idles fine until whatever fuel it is getting runs out. I pulled the harness and pulled the loom/tape off, and the splices are not corroded. Not sure what to do at this point other than check the harness some more and possibly try another ECU?
My Haynes manual said the resistor box should ohm out between 2 and 3. Mine was 3.5. I tested two other ones today and they were at 3.3-3.5 as well...so perhaps my manual is wrong.

*EDIT*

Tested both the cold start injector time switch and coolant temp switch. The coolant temp switch tests out alright, but the cold start injector time switch seems to be around 80ohms. I think there is a possibility that it is bad, which may be causing my fuel issue.

 

I removed the crimps and soldered the wires in the harness and still no change. I'm now looking for a qualified shop to drop the truck off at.