I start the 22re 87 4runner and it would not crank over. If i hold the throttle it would turn over and run and die. I have to keep the throttle on and feather it a little and it would stay on sometimes or die.

I have a working afm and a tps.

I have a bad air intake tube because of some cracks, but i duct tape the hell out of it untill my new one arrives. I sprayed some electrical spray on the tube doesn't increase rpm.

I sprayed on brake booster hose, that idle thingy with the spring that has 2 hoses connected to it. It would increase a little.

Could it be that my vacuum leak and bad air intake tube be one of the problems thats why it won't stay started?

It threw a code 25, but then it stopped and no code was saved.

 

fyi

I just bought this 87 4runner and it wasn't running to begin with thats why i bought it so cheap.

Since i have a 89 toyota truck 4wd i decided to take it and make it a project.

I got it running with my 89 intake with afm, for more then a hour.

The 4runner been sitting for a year maybe? Condensation and bad stuff were stuck in it.

Put a new alternator, battery, rotor, cap, plugs, spark plugs, big 3 upgrade for better ground and such.


I don't currently have my other 22re truck with me since my dad is using it.

I have only my 4runner in my posession.

Waiting for silcone vacuum hoses to come in, new intake piping.

You think those two can cause the problem?

 

I sprayed some electrical spray on this and it revs up?
What to do? New vacuum hoses are on it?

 

anyone know what going on with this culprit?

 

You said you had it running for over an hour with the intake and AFM from your '89 truck. You also said you have a working AFM and TPS. But, how do you know those two components are working? Other than some tubing and such, it seems it only ran with the other ('89) AFM in it.

 

afm works. I just bought a other one and tested on my truck.
It starts now and runs rough and dies. Im waiting for my intake tubing since its bad.

I dont have my truck here since my father is driving it for now.

 

You have a vacuum leak either there or near there.
That might not be your only problem.

 

be sure to change your fuel filter it could make a world of difference it did in the 87 runner i just bought, but my actual filter was rusted

 

It gave me a code a 5 blinks and 11 blinks.

Which is o2 and tps.

I just replaced the o2 sensor since it was really cheap. The orginal was a bosch from po... put a fresh denso in it.

Starts stutters and dies.

This is driving me crazy... I just put a working afm,working tps from my other truck. new intake pipe and hoses new vacuums new battery and alternator to get it running. The battery was needed the alternator as well since it wasn't charging.

I can't figure it out.

 

Let me see if i understand this, if you try and start it, it won`t start, is that right ?, if you spray starting fluid into the intake will it start and then die after a few seconds ?.

 

I appologize.

It starts and surges and dies.
Sometimes I have to have my foot on the gas.

New o2 new air intake pipe and afm with tps. Also spark plugs, cap, wires and rotor.

 

Are you sure that the TPS is properly adjusted ?, also check the idle air control valve, if its bad it could possible cause some of the problems your having.

 

Code 5 says O2 sensor circuit, but that doesn't mean anything's wrong with the sensor. Of course, switching to the Denso was a good idea. But, if you haven't fixed that vacuum leak at the A/C idle up valve (in your picture above) you're going to have a problem like what you've described. Also, this will throw a code 5 because of the unmetered air and the O2 picking up on it in the exhaust. If you haven't fixed that leak, your code 5 will come back.

 

The code 5 went away today. I get a code 11. TPS is good. Starts and stutters like it ran out of gas and dies. Unless I keep my foot on the gas and it misses when I do that sometimes.

 

If i remember right, code 11 is the TPS, is your TPS new or is it the original one ?, if its the original and it has a lot of mile on it, then just replace it. Do a google search and you should be able to find a new one for around 60-75 dollars.

 

I changed my air cleaner on my 92 when I first got it and when I put everything back on it did the same thing it would start and then stall. What it was on my year v6 the air tube going from the air box has another tube underneath it and that cam off so the map sensor was not working right. Check to make sure there is no lose tube or a hole in the tube after the sensor. Just a idea. Good luck.

 

I put my other truck ecu and tested mine with a other truck. Worked fine... still code 11 driving me crazy. Even with the TPS bad or good if i take it off it would still run. Starting it and surge to death... is annoying!

 

The computer uses the TPS to tell how far the throttle is open, if you unplug the TPS your truck will still run, just not as good as it should. If your getting surging when you start it up, try lowering the idle, if the idle is set to high it will cause the surging idle your getting.

 

I lowered the idle and it surged and stalled itself. I drove it to the gas station since its has old gas from the PO. Year old or so? Full tank of fresh 91 octane.

Once i get it fix smog test it is!

I can't figure what the code 11 is.

 

Run a google search "toyota OBD1 DTC" diagnostic trouble codes. On older OBD1, code 11 is for the idle switch contact. IOW's, it's out of range or no contact at all.

I know the code 5 went away.....for now. But, did you fix the vacuum leak? You sprayed starting fluid around the a/c idle valve and the idle went up. As Marc pointed out, you have/had a vacuum leak there. Did you fix it? If not, the code 5 will come back at some point. You put the new Denso sensor, so for now it's keeping the a/f ratio within spec. But, there'll be a point when the ECU sees it as a long standing condition. A little complicated for me to explain right now, but trust me on that one.