This code keeps getting set because you start it with the diagnostic jumper in place and then press the throttle.

The coolant sensor you don't have plugged in is iirc connected to the transmission controller.

There is no reason for you to be inside the VAFM, set it to stock assuming you marked it, close it up and leave it alone unless or until you have a wideband oxygen sensor hooked up you are just guessing and could do major damage to valves.

Your idle air adjustment, big flathead on the throttle body, could be off somewhere between 1/4 or 3/4 in to far. Just comparing it to where mine sits.

Do you have to hold the gas pedal to get it to start, this could indicate a leak in the air valve under the throttle body like a cracked hose or loose and or missing hose.

 

Its me again. I dont have to press the gas to start it. I fixed the coolant lines sensors. I pulled the top off the tps because The one i just put on to the truck to fix it was filled with water and pretty rusty. The VAFM is at stock on both of them. I messed around with the idle air adjustment it was right so i put it back to where it was before. I finally got it to run and it sounded great there was a little bit of water coming out of the tailpipe but i put on a new pcv valve and took it out for a little 1 mile trip since it had been running for about an hour without any problems. The engine was going great until the turbo started to spool up, it started lurching and not running right and almost no power whatsoever when the turbo light came on. I'll pull the codes tomorrow and probably recheck my TPS maybe i did it wrong but I am done for the day. The original problem seems like it was the AFM, I had an old one lying around that was a little rusted out but i put it in and it ran like a dream so the AFM was giving me a lot of trouble but oh well. Once again the minute the turbo kicks on it has no power and just in general it doesn't have any power. I didn't notice any problem going down the hill but I used to go up the hill in third or fourth gear and it was seriously struggling in second I had to put it in first gear a few times, yah no power when the turbo kicks in, I'll check the air from the turbo to the efi since today i made sure that the air box to the turbo is good. Would a vacuum leak do this in an 1987? thank you in advance.

 

What did you wind up doing about the cracked turbo housing?

 

I replaced the turbo and the exhaust housing there is a replacement for it on eBay if you go back a few posts someone posted an link to it.

 

So i am finally able to drive said vehicle but there a few things wrong with her. she is throwing codes 7, 10, 11, 14. the tps is in spec although it is set all the way down towards the ground before it would read right the rights resistence and it is just barely there. the truck has no power the second the turbo kicks on i have more power on with out the turbo but i can barely make it up a hill as you need to go above 2000 rpm but that is when the turbo kicks in so no power. thanks.

 

also my catalytic converytor was glowing within 3-5 minutes of driving. this post has a lot of symptons of my truck minus the codes but for some reason i cant register to ask how he fixed his problem. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...ower-help.html

 

you need a new throttle position sensor, and you might need to re-read the adjustment process​.

Code 7 & 11 are TPS. 14 is the EFI cutting off (overboost)
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The boost is cutting out at 2-3 psi. there aren't any cracks in the plastic or metal I have looked. I have another spare tps i will put on today thank you. and readjust the tps. thank you.

 

It doesn't have a real boost sensor, it computes it based on the throttle and flapper in the air meter. Once the tps is set and replaced, it should improve.

 

You were right i redid the tps and now she is running correctly and boosting at 7.5 psi. thank you. a few more minor details but she runs as she should, again thank you.

 

i had an old throttle body lying around and it turns out my knobs were bent badly thank you