Hello everyone, I'm as new as them come.

Just purchased a beautiful 1987 Toyota Pickup 4x4 XtraCab DLX and had her shipped from Colorado where she'd been sitting in a garage for the last several (unknown) years. Only 121,000 on the truck, but she still ran like crap, spat fuel, and had numerous vacuum leaks.

I replaced the fuel air system (new fuel pump, running to fuel pressure regulator [holding 3psi], running to a Weber 32/36 from Redline). Also installed new distributor, plug wires and plugs. The engine runs great, HOWEVER, exhibits the following symptoms:

1. Diesels after I shut her off (yes, I know, I should install an idle shutoff in the Weber but I'd rather fix the problem [idle mixture probably] than alleviate the symptom.

2. She dribbles quite a bit out of the exhaust after starting up.

3. Idles fairly high WITHOUT the idle screw even contacting the throttle.

4. The (not sure what to call it) front cover gasket, as well as the head gasket are a little juicy, and look like they have been for some time.

5. And lastly, despite proper properly installing the Redline Weber adapter plate sandwich multiple times, (seems like a stupid design, especially being cast and not machined) I believe I've got a slight vacuum leak around the base of the carb (if I dribble starter fluid the idle picks up)

I really want to take care of this truck, I'm going to MPG not so much HP, and I'm more than willing to do what's necessary to get her running tip top.

Suggestions/advice on any one or all of these issues would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks all!
-Jackson

 

I have run the 32/36 and now run a 38 on my '87 22r. First, ditch the two piece adapter and install a one piece. I used Hylomar on my two piece and didn't have any issues but most others have. Secondly, install the fuel shutoff and save yourself the grief of probably never getting it to not diesel some or most of the time. The Weber is not an easy carb to adjust (IMHO) but after buying a Jet Kit and spending an afternoon playing with it I love my Weber. You must follow the initial set-up instructions EXACTLY or you'll chase your tail all day trying to jet it, etc. Lots of tuning info on this site if you take the time to search it. Also here http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=45126.0

 

Thanks for the advice! Is the hylomar plate machined/reliable? Also do what do you recommend between the gaskets, white lithium or gasket compound?

I gave the tuning another shot and had much better success, and as for the diesel I will probably invest in an idle shutoff, but for now I just let the clutch out as I shut her off.

I pulled my plugs and the tips look a lovelt brownish grey. The first several threads however are black and sticky. I'm wondering if this is from and oil leak, or just from the plugs entering the preexisting nastiness of the combustion chamber.

Let me know,
Thanks!
-Jackson

 

The Hylomar is actually a gasket sealer. I used the Permatex version available at the local auto parts store on the stock Weber two piece adapter. It worked very well but when I went to the 38 I bought a one piece adapter just to be safe. I think the success is using the Hylomar and installing the plate like you would install a cylinder head, crisscross tightening sequence a little at a time. I agree on the plugs as mine look similar. The cut off solenoid makes a difference but it ain't perfect. As I said, the Weber is finicky but once I got either one of mine set I didn't touch them anymore.

 

There is a company called trans dapt. They make a one piece adaptor for the weber to 22r manifold.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-2181/overview/

Next, the reason the engine is dieseling is because you have a vacuum leak and its getting more fuel then it needs. ( you said it was idling high even with the idle speed screw all the way out) Once you sort out these issues it should solve the dieseling problem.

Follow the weber adjustment directions to a tee!
If you don't have one already I would highly recommend the manual choke or the water temp based choke. The electric is not very good, because it bases opening on the electric coil temp and not the engines temp.

 

Awesome, thanks guys. I actually called LCE about the faulty plates and they're sending me an LCE manufacturered spiral adapter for half price. I agree that solving the vacuum leak is step one.

For the bolt/studs do you guys use loctite? If so, red or blue (there will be heat), and what's the difference?

Thanks again!
-Jackson

 

On the second install of the adapter plates I used red (hoping it would help) but I'm not sure it's necessary and that stuff is a bitch to remove.

 

I replied to your other post on this - check it out, lots of information on how I do my tuning with good results.

 

I have the LCE Spiral Adapter. NICE piece. I use blue loctite.

 

Awesome, thanks everybody!