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86 Toyota 4runner

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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 09:49 AM
  #1  
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86 Toyota 4runner

I am the original owner of an 86 4runner, auto tranmission, 22RE, EFI. Anyways, I'm new to yotatech, and have ran out of places to turn. I love my runner but for the past couple of years it hasn't shifted properly. I have payed to have new shift sensors, and the transmission to be rebuilt by dealers. These have not worked. It will shift half the time, the other half I have to manually shift. I am very mechanical and have been trying to figure it out myself. I have adjusted the kick-down on the throttle body to .040" from rubber boot to cable stop. I really want to fix this. Anyone know how to fix?
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 01:15 PM
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Does the overdrive light blink while driving? Have you replaced the ecm for the transmission? It's in the console, under the radio.
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 02:16 PM
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The overdrive light does not blink. Light works correctly. Are you talking about the ECU behind the passenger kick panel? I haven't bought a reader to hook up to it yet, but I plan on it. Will this help to diagnose a transmission problem?
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 08:35 PM
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There is a seperate Trans shift computer under the center console. This is NOT the main ECU for the engine, but rather a seperate computer for the ECT (Electronically Controlled Transmission). Sounds like that is your problem.

Overdrive really doesn't havbe much to do with the shifting of the trans. Usually the reader doesn't help with the trans. You will need to pull the Trans ECU and test/replace it.
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 09:52 PM
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join the crowd. sounds like this is a common problem. i have an 89 4runner 22re with an a340h and mine shifts when it feels like it. i have to manually shift mine half the time as well. someone else new to the board posted a problem that sounded the same a couple of weeks ago also. i have changed solenoids and the filter and my fluid looks good. i have been to lazy to mess with it lately, but i have been meaning to probe my ect computer and check the voltage and resistance values to find what is wrong. some experienced buddies of mine say it sounds like a computer problem. i have visually checked the wiring and it looks good but i think a circuit is bad somewhere. if you figure yours out let us know and i will do the same. there does not seem to be much info on here for auto transmissions for these early models because everyone wants a manual (wish i had one). some have been lucky changing solenoids. is that what you mean by sensors?
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 09:58 AM
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Thanks for the advise! I will pull the Computer for the trans. Any advise on how to test? I have tested efi relays, switches, and so forth before with my volt meter, can I do similar tests on the trans. computer or will I need to take it to someone to have it bench tested?
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 07:27 PM
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From: memphis
different year but should be similar tests in the 93 fsm auto transmission section. here is a link

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 02:04 PM
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Okay I jumpered my ecu test plug and flashed codes 4, 6, & 7. 4 is the coolant temp sensor, which I tested w/ a volt meter & thermometer and it was off. This confirms why I'm having problems w/ cold starts. Time sensor & cold start injector tested good. Code 6 is my Throttle Position Sensor. Which I read could cause shift problems. I will test/replace this sensor before the ECT to see if the problem could lie here. The code 7 is the igniter/distributer. Not sure what to do about this one yet? Any suggestions?
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 09:28 AM
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Alright I have fixed the problem...for those interested. After reading my trouble codes which pointed me towards the Throttle Position Sensor, I tested the TPS by unplugging it, placing various guage feelers specified in my haynes manual between the throttle and throttle stop screw. Then used my volt meter to measure resistance at the diferent throttle positions. This confirmed the bad TPS. So I replaced it for $97 from oreilly's. You have to use the reverse method of guaging & testing when putting it back on, slightly turning it clockwise until you hit the right resistance, then completely tighten. And voila... A completely functioning automatic transmission and no more trouble codes. The TPS caused 2 different codes simultaneously. A 6 - the distributor and a 7- the TPS. Hope this may serve to help those w/ similar problem in the future. Thanks to all for advise & direction!
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