Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

yeah it's out of spec then. Re-read that test section, the bit about disabling the regulator specificly. It(regulator) is likely malfunctioning. The pressure test is also in that section.

1.2 Ohm is out of spec. It(coil) is number four on the ignition trouble shooting list for rough idle and stalling. It should help atleast once it's replaced.

here's the short version of the EFI flow chart from the 88 FSM..

Codes, vacuum leaks, air filter, idle speed, igniton timing, spark plugs & cords, cold start injector, fuel pressure, injectors, EFI/ECM circuit (Wires, Power, AFM, Water temp sensor, Air temp sensor, TPS, Injector signal (Wiring, resistor, ECU), Oxygen sensor)

TeeCee

OK, I bought a feeler gauge today and checked the air gap on the distributor, it was at .020, I adjusted it to .012, the book says between.008 and.016 so I figured .012 was perfect.

Check Engine Light is still giving a code 12.

I ordered a coil from the dealership today, should be in within a few days.

I am getting the feeling that the problem lies in the ignition system.

The truck is now starting up on first crank and staying running on its own power.
It is still sputtering like it is off timing, I have adjusted the timing to no avail.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Have you cleared that code 12 and it has reappeared? If so inspect that plug and make sure it's clean and fully seated. And the harness junctions at and near the ECU. If it still reappears, it's maybe bad wiring. Make sure the power into the pickup is constant, one side is +12v with the key on the other goes to the ECU. If the power is consistant, and the pickup isn't flakey that only leaves the input wire to the ecu. So run a new test wire, that is a shielded wire IIRC, you can ghetto fab one with a foil shield(gounded of course at both ends) for the test.

On a semi related note, can anyone explain the differences in the 22r and 22r-e distibutor pickup, eg it seems the 22r has a replacement pickup but the 22r-e needs a whole new distributor and I'm wondering why that is.

TeeCee

First off, Co_94_PU I really appreciate all the help

The code has been cleared by disconnecting the battery for a bit, then it came back. So a few quick questions

1) "inspect that plug and make sure it's clean and fully seated"
Which plug, the one from the pickup coil to the Ignition Control module?
if so, its plugged in and seated.

My understanding is that I am going to check the connector that goes from the ICM to the pick up coil and at the ICM side I should test for a 12v constant with the switch on but not running...right?

As far as the rest goes.....pretend I'm 10 years old and explain how to do all those whacky things you described.....lol I'm so confused

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Pickup, NE sensor, Doo-hicky on the distributor.

I was pretty sure it ran straight to the ECU but now I gotta go look at the diagrams. It might have a splice to the ignition module. In fact I still had that diagram open in the FSM. For some reason I thought the ecu fed the ignitor the NE signal thru the IG lines when cranking, nope direct feed. So there is a little more wiring involved than I described.

You have ignition spark while cranking, since it starts. However it may still be flakey/intermitten due to bad wires or connections. So..

Unplug the connector at the dist'.
Turn the key to the on position.
Establish a ground for the meter.
Probe each side of the harness plug, one of them should give you battery voltage.
Gently, never bend a wire in a circle diameter less than five times it's thickness, bend/flex/manipulate the wire along it's length and see if you at any time lose power.
If you do lose power and it's not from the probe clips slipping, you have found a broken wire.
Switch the key back to off.

(This bits kind of academic but we'll go "whole-hog" anyways..)
Now take a resistance reference measurement for both wires between the plugs at the distributor and ignitor(I'm assuming there are plugs at the ignitor), and write them down. You can identify an aged/fatigued wire by it's resistance if you know the wire guage, length and temperature. So next you put the tape measure and write the length of the wire run down also. Now look up the rating, here. For 24 gauge it'll be around 25 milliohm(0.025 Ohm) per foot. If you get say 50 mOhm it's a very bad wire or really hot.

The HF meter isn't exactly the best for this, It doesn't have clamps or clips and no probe zeroing ability.
(end lesson)

Now we need to locate and check the conductivity and resistance of the NE wire from the ignitor to the computer. Assuming your meter probe wires are long enough you can do the conductivity test with it. If not we'll need to supply one end of the wire with power and use a test lamp.


1: Disconnect the ECU harness plug and insert a probe.
2: Disconnect the Ignitor harness plug and insert a probe.
3: Gently manipulate the wire run and watch for any disconnection.

Repeat the resistance measurment, length measurement, and see if it's in the right ball park.

Now here is a tricky bit. I have no idea what guage wire this stuff is or it's purity. And again the HF meter isn't really up to this. We're looking at tens of milliOhm per foot here.

You can repeat the manipulation tests in resistance measuring mode. If you have aligator clips or spring clips or may a big ole brick to keep the probes steady. Any resistance spikes not due to probe movement indicate a damaged wire that needs replaced. Again NEVER bend a wire to less than five times it's diameter. There is alittle bit of leeway with stranded wires but not much.


And thats probably more than anyone ever wanted to hear about debuging wire runs.

Yep switch on not running, there is supposed to be a steady voltage at one side of the distributor pickup harness. I'm not actually certain of the voltage here but it's a good guess it's 12v.

(hope you're not electronics overloaded already cause here is some more)
The pickup coil in the distributor is most likely a hal effect sensor, and the ignitor contains the square wave signal shaper.

Signal lines are a bit picky about noise, eg why its a bad idea to mount a CB right next to your ecu. I know some of the signal lines are shielded (Don't ask me where I read it or why but I did somewhere, wiring diagram or autoshop101) ... Ok I went looking for it anyway. On a v6 3vze, the ignitor is not directly connected to the distributor and the distributor to ecu lines are shielded.

So ignore all that crab about shielded wires and ghetto-fabing em. If you find a bad wire run a new one. There are no shielded wires on the 22r-e in this portion of the wiring.

Now someone just sad Oh crap in the audience and I'm guessing he has a v6 so.. You can use an ethernet cable to rerun the distributor wires to the ecu, these generally are not rated for 170c(Automotive electrical temp) so keep it away from the hot stuff OK. and make sure you ground the shielding at both ends.

(Typos be damned I'm not re-reading all that *submit*)

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

It might not be obvious so.. If your not getting good constant voltage at the ignitor on the wire that goes to the pickup, the ignitor needs replaced or the wiring is flakey somewhere up or down stream of it. Make sure it's gound contacts are clean ect..

TeeCee

Well, I got good news and bad news....the good news is that the trouble code 12 was actually the knock sensor code for the '86, I found it in the Chilton Guide. I found this thread
( http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...ck-sensor.html ) and behold, the knock sensor wire was not connected, I connected it and made sure it was tight. I started the truck and no Check Engine Light....but the truck still idles and runs rough.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Blessed be the OBD standards.. The 88 book has those codes aswell in the 22r-et section. Just never sure which chart to use on which motors for the older years.

Here is the short version of the trouble shooting chart from the 88 book, for Rough idle or Missing.

Codes, Vacuum leaks, Air filter, Idle speed, Ignition timing, Spark plugs and cords, Cold start injector, Fuel pressure, Injectors, EFI circuit (Wires, power, AFM, Water sensor, Air sensor, TPS,(Injector wiring,resistor(?) ECU), o2 sensor.

TeeCee

Well, I picked up my tank today $95, so I'm going to install the new tank, new fuel pump and strainer and new oem fuel filter, drop in about 5 gallons of Chevron 91 and a bottle of Chevron fuel injection cleaner and hopefully have it finished by Tuesday or Wednesday...I hope this makes a immediate difference....any tips?
What if I put in 5 gallons of 100 octane? Hmm....

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Do not eat yellow snow!

Don't recall offhand, are you the rusted tank guy? If you can blow some air thru the gas hardlines with a compressor(not your face), and see if you can get any junk out, wouldn't want to clog that new filter.

*Sigh* had to reread all the other posts, well scanned them atleast..

You got that new coil in right? no major changes? How is the ignition timing looking? (Changed a cap and rotor this weekend and the timing moved two degrees.)

If it's still no good after the install
Give a summary of those things i quoted that have been tested, or do them again and post the results in a nice orderly post if you would please.

TeeCee

Sorry it took so long to get back to the board, been out of commission for a few months.
Last week I got fed up and took it over to a recommended shop. I talked to the owner and he told me it had a leak at the intake manifold gaskets, hit me for $325. I get a call from him day before yesterday telling me it may have a blown head gasket and he would test it before he did any work on my truck, I thanked him and waited 2 days to find out....anxious, terrified...lol....anyway, it came out good and I now await the results of the intake manifold gasket changes.

TeeCee

Well guys, I just picked it up from the shop, it took a while but it's running right now.
The whole problem ended up being a minor, practically unnoticeable leak at the intake manifold gasket.