86 4Runner Rear Driver side lean
#1
86 4Runner Rear Driver side lean
I decided to dig the runner out of the basement and and get it running and looking good again. It runs better now than I can ever remember (my dad got the truck in 87' and I learned to drive in it not too much later) but now there is a one inch lean in the rear drivers side that I never remember. I know the leaf springs are notorious for sagging so I yanked them and had them rearched with an add a leaf on both sides. Now it sits 2 inches higher but the lean is still there. I changed all the leaf bushings along with shackle bushings and put New Pro Comp Shocks. No change. I don't see anything obvious. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
#3
I went around to each tire and measured from the top of the tire to each fender and front right sits about 1/2" higher than the left (driver side) and rear there is a full inch difference that's too noticeable for me to handle. I thought about swapping leaf springs from side to side to see what it looks like. I don't have the front ball joint spacers in, it's all stock.
I'm not seeing anything else in the rear that can affect the body height other than the leaf springs and possibly the shackles. Could I cheat and put a bigger shackle on the left side? New leaf springs are $$$$$.
I'm not seeing anything else in the rear that can affect the body height other than the leaf springs and possibly the shackles. Could I cheat and put a bigger shackle on the left side? New leaf springs are $$$$$.
Last edited by JonnyEm; 03-23-2017 at 04:18 AM.
#4
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You can probably try to readjust your front torsion bars. Either lower your front right so it's not 1/2" higher than your left or raise the front left 1/2" to match the right side. But I would do that after you look over your front IFS to make sure nothing seems outta wack like worn bushings or bad ball joints.
#5
Before you adjust anything, you need to determine which of the four corners is the culprit.
On level ground, raise the front of the truck off the ground from the middle of the cross member, until the tires lift off the ground even so slightly. Now go measure the rear, does the problem still exist? If yes, you know the problem is in the rear. If not, then lift the back and measure the front. You will find it.
On level ground, raise the front of the truck off the ground from the middle of the cross member, until the tires lift off the ground even so slightly. Now go measure the rear, does the problem still exist? If yes, you know the problem is in the rear. If not, then lift the back and measure the front. You will find it.
#7
Before you adjust anything, you need to determine which of the four corners is the culprit.
On level ground, raise the front of the truck off the ground from the middle of the cross member, until the tires lift off the ground even so slightly. Now go measure the rear, does the problem still exist? If yes, you know the problem is in the rear. If not, then lift the back and measure the front. You will find it.
On level ground, raise the front of the truck off the ground from the middle of the cross member, until the tires lift off the ground even so slightly. Now go measure the rear, does the problem still exist? If yes, you know the problem is in the rear. If not, then lift the back and measure the front. You will find it.
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#8
The driver side torsion bar jam nut was about 1/2" away from the adjustment nut... I tweaked both sides to get the truck level again but now I'm wondering how it got that way. I've never touched them. Are they touched during an alignment?
#9
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Maybe the p/o was "oversized" or his wife and they made the adjustment for self confidence and possibly even tire wear
I see your family is the only owner so that rules out my theory.
I see your family is the only owner so that rules out my theory.
Last edited by flg8r22; 03-25-2017 at 03:43 PM. Reason: Adding info
#11
I split the difference. Left side up a touch past where the jam nut was and the passenger side down a few turns. I got it within a 1/4 inch from side to side front & back.
Thanks for the help!
Now to take all the new interior out for sound proofing.
Thanks for the help!
Now to take all the new interior out for sound proofing.
#13
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Oh and does anyone know the service life of rear leaf springs? I figured at 23 years old and 185k miles, mine were due for replacement. But that's just a guess really.
#14
Which leaf springs did you go with? The ones I saw out there were pretty pricey. I got mine re-arched and they added a leaf for $250.00 at a local diesel repair shop which also included them fabricating me New longer U bolts with new hardware. I am very pleased with the look now and think it was well worth it.
#15
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I went with these: http://www.truckspring.com/products/...)__90-117.aspx
I didn't know about the re-arching option - that sounds good too!
I didn't know about the re-arching option - that sounds good too!
#18
I pulled mine and took them up the shop and had the rework done and reinstalled them myself. It's really easy. I went ahead and bought a new bushing kit on RockAuto for like 25-30 dollars and installed. Mine shackle and rear leaf bushings were shot. The front leaf bushings were good so I didn't change those.
An impact wrench in your best friend.
An impact wrench in your best friend.
#19
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Thanks. Let me know if you've got bushing removal tips! Heard stories of people having to torch them to get them out, which I could do but not sure if that's the best way. I've got replacements.
#20
The front leaf bushing would need to be pressed out. The leaf rear and shackle bushings just fell out when I pulled them apart. My truck does have very little rust, however. It's never left GA and has been garaged it's whole life, so I could see were it could be an issue for a truck that spent it's life in the north.