Good steps.

When I finally try this I am gonna give it a shot using a powerpainter from home depot and this paint on a worthless bodypanel to see how it works. If I could get away with that then it will be really good.

 

Anyone tried spraying this stuff with a HVLP sprayer? I imagine it needs to be thinned.

I'm going to try the marine paint on the top to see how it looks.

 

people always say "it's good but it's not as good as factory." the point here is cheap - eighty bones for an almost-as-good-as-factory paint job sounds pretty damn good to me!

 

i thought about spraying it, but i wanted a finish that i could just paint a section and not tape off the truck or my shop when i dent or scratch it. i think i remember reading on the interlux paint can you can thin and spray, but if you are going to do that, just try the rustoleum first. 9 bucks a quart verses 30 buck
when i was playing around with the rustoleum on my hood, i had it thin enough i could have shot it out of my hvlp gun. don't forget to post the pics if you spray.

 

i would like to see some sprayed pics too!

another cheap paint idea i had was to spray hammerite through a gun.. <going to do that unless the rustolum looks goot out of a gun..

ttyl!

 

Damnit guys, I'm so impressed with the results I'm now gona paint my WHOLE truck vs just the top LOL!!

Anyways, my question is... to save time and effort can the old paint be scuffed with a sander? If so, what kind do you recommend? A cheapy sander that will do the work and maybe still be useful for something else. I have a buffer but I don't know if there is anything I can attach to that? How about some links or whatever to a sander? Also, can that sander be used to do the wet sanding? I was thinking of applying 2 coats, then wet sanding. Or is it better done by hand?

THANKS!!!

 

hey my yotas got a rattle can job! it depends on if you know how to air paint. its a cheap paint job that doesnt look half bad if you do it right, and if it gets messed up wheelin or someone keys you... you just go back over it.

 

o ya, did my rattle can rustoleum job right out of the can. no guns or anything. looks good huh?

 

i am not a bodyman. i did all my sanding by hand, using straight back and forth movements. you are just roughing up the paint. if i remember, it took 45 minutes. look for areas you missed after you wash it, and it dries.

 

ok tortis, what am i doing wrong? i have done 3 coats with the interlux paint on my cars hood and i am still getting roller lines in the paint. im wet sanding with 220 in between each coat. i roll it on going up and down and then com back and go left to right.

 

You using a really nice foam roller dude?

 

I rolled my truck with rustoleum. I didn't mix it with anything, and didn't do any finish work(sanding,buffing), and it still came out 1000 times better than a rattlecan job. It surely isn't a show worthy paint job, but it looks totally decent. A word of advice to anyone who does this, is don't get discouraged after the first coat or two. They will look horrible, but after that the coverage gets much better, and looks okay.

 

yep, the high density foam rollers that are sold at home depot and lowes.

 

I'm getting my paint in tomorrow. Let me know what you figure out Robert. I'm kinda nervous about doing it myself.

 

are you going over it with the foam brush? the foam brush needs to have a little paint on it so it glides over the paint that you rolled. with this paint, what it looks like wet is what you get when it dries...have you sanded the old lines out.. when i was messing around with the rustoleum on my hood i left some bubbles, and had to sand it down to bare metal, just about.

 

you have been following this thread long enough to know that if i, tortis, the Y/T dummy can do it, you, or any one else can. it is like rolling a panel door, you have to make sure to get in the creases and brush out the runs before it tacks up to much. plenty of light helps. it really is a snap. it looks like you are where i was last month, getting new parts to replace brken stuff

 

just for reference, the miata that turned so well had a looottt of prep work. he wet sanded his original finish, then wet sanded between each coat of paint, then a final wet sand, buff, and polish.

scuffing the paint will work, but your final product won't be as good afaik.

 

i think im going to try and spray this stuff. anyone know what to use to thin it? that part of my can is covered with paint so i cant read it.

 

The guy that fixed the rust on my truck told me the same thing. I began to sand/scuff the paint on the drivers side rear with 220. It knocked the clear off and felt pretty good for catching paint, but he said sanding it with water would work MUCH better... You guys agree?

 

Yes get wet sanding paper and wetsand using a sports bottle or sprayer to add the water.