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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

4wd not engaging....

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Old May 13, 2007 | 10:45 AM
  #1  
thook's Avatar
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
4wd not engaging....

So, I had a wreck in the '92 (auto w/3vze) in Jan. I had to replace the front diff cover and, in the process, remove the ADD actuator. It's all back together now, but 4wd is not engaging. Plus, when I shift into L 4wd the shifter pops back out and into H 4wd. Now, I realize it may not be going into 4wd because I either put the actuator in wrong or got the two vacuum lines crossed, but would that affect the shifter popping out as well?
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Old May 13, 2007 | 01:48 PM
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From: Downeast, ME
not sure but its definately worth checking the vacuum lines as that seems to be the engagement issue for most people with add.

when putting it into 4-low you have to be in neutral, and stopped i believe, but im not sure as both trucks i've owned have been manuals.
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Old May 13, 2007 | 02:15 PM
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Check out the ADD for starters:
- http://rubicon.off-road.com/toyota/tech/add/

And check out the shift linkage under the truck:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...tomaticTranny1
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Old May 14, 2007 | 09:51 AM
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linkage adjusted correctly? that woudl be my first guess.
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Old May 14, 2007 | 10:02 PM
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thook's Avatar
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
It doesn't have to be in neutral, just at a complete stop. Atleast, I don't recall that it does. It's been a while since I've driven it, and I didn't even drive it that much.

I'll check it all out. Thanks a bunch all.
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Old May 14, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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deffinately check it and the shifter fork.

you have a manual shift t case which means you need to be in neutral.
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Old May 14, 2007 | 10:38 PM
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thook's Avatar
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Thanks, muddog.

Let me ask this....
I'm guessing the actuator wouldn't even go on....rather, it wouldn't mate up to bolt on if the fork wasn't mated up to the sleeve right. Correct? I asking to avoid having to drain the diff again to pull the actuator back off and go through the whole mess of resealing it and refilling.
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Old May 15, 2007 | 07:45 PM
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From: Redding C.A.
what exactly do u mean u replaced your front diff cover? its ifs it comes apart in halph or even a straight axle has third members. The only diff cover would be like a gm 10 bolt style. my guess as to your problem like muddog said would be a shifter fork
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Old May 15, 2007 | 07:51 PM
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ya there isn't really a "diff. cover" there.....

but if you have to take it apart again, why dont you eliminate the add all together and run manual hubs. ditch that vacuum system up there. just a thought.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 04:40 AM
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thook's Avatar
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Originally Posted by weakyota91
what exactly do u mean u replaced your front diff cover? its ifs it comes apart in halph or even a straight axle has third members. The only diff cover would be like a gm 10 bolt style. my guess as to your problem like muddog said would be a shifter fork
I mean the front differential cover was damaged. When I wrecked, the crossmember bolts...one of them anyway....was shoved into the cover punching a silver dollar sized hole into it dumping all of the gear oil. So, I had to replace it. I removed the actuator to get the broken diff cover off and the new one in. You have to in order to access one of the diff cover bolts and slide the cover off. Also, to pull the ADD actuator off again to inspect it....to see if I mated the actuator fork correctly to the sliding sleeve....I have to drain the gear oil first. Otherwise, if I pull the actuator first oil will spill everywhere. Follow? Plus, a diff cover for an ADD 4rnr is designed/moulded differently than a standard cover for a 4rnr with no ADD. It has the same number of bolts and all, but the diff cover for ADD has a recess to allow for the actuator the be installed right next to it on the axle housing.


Originally Posted by yotasavg
ya there isn't really a "diff. cover" there.....

but if you have to take it apart again, why dont you eliminate the add all together and run manual hubs. ditch that vacuum system up there. just a thought.
There's not a diff cover there?
I'm not going to eliminate the ADD. It's a lovely thought, but it's expensive and I like the ADD. It works....well, it did..lol. You have to understand this is my wife's vehicle and she kinda likes the fact she doesn't have to get out of the vehicle to lock or unlock hubs to switch between 2wd and 4wd. And to be honest, I like it that way, too. I already have to do that with my '86. Think of the '92 as our "luxury" 4rnr...

BTW, I tried putting the transmission in neutral to shift the t/c into L 4wd, but it still pops out. I haven't had time to inspect the shift linkage, yet. Nor the ADD system. Nor anything else. But, I will...hopefully in the next day or three.

Thanks for links 4crawler.

Last edited by thook; May 16, 2007 at 04:53 AM.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 09:09 AM
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What they mean is that it's not called a differential cover. If you're talking about the housing itself (the part that the drain and fill holes are located on), then that's called the differential carrier (or housing).

The ADD not being hooked up right will not cause the lever to pop out. That is likely your linkage as others have mentioned.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 03:28 PM
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thook's Avatar
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
I'm talking about the differential cover. I know the difference between the two. And the fill hole is most definitely on the cover.

The linkage doesn't appear to be damaged, but I've yet to check the adjustment. Soon, though.
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