blainelukens

ok so I have a 89 PU 5 speed with a 3.0 with 4.10's, want to eventually put 33's on preferably 33x12.5. Although I assume that I would need to re-gear the diffs??? Is this correct, anyone out there run this setup? How slugish is your truck, any other disadvantages? Not sure what I should do, or if I re-gear what I should go to b/c this truck is a daily driver and would like to maintain highway speeds of about 70-80 MPH. Any suggestions would help alot
Thanks

tc

4.10's are going to be a major problem with 33's.

I run 33's with 4.56's and there was a slight but noticeable loss of power when I change from 31's. I am considering going to 4.88's to get back closer to the stock ratio.

I would recommend you look into 33x10.50 - a lot easier to fit on our trucks.

jacksonpt

It's all about personal preference. I run 33/12.5-15s on my truck with stock 3.90s. Yes, it's on the slow side, but for the most part I don't mind it (only after driving a vehicle with some zip do I notice how lethargic my truck is going up hill, but it only takes me a few days to get used to my truck again).

FWIW... I have the 3.4 V6 in my truck... might make a difference.

fourwd1

You'll have a slight loss of power, but many, many people run 33's w/stock 4.10 gears and live with it, and w/4 cyl engines.

Drive it for a while w/the 33's and then decide. If you do re-gear go w/4.56 or 4.88s.

Diesel_Freak

well, 4.10's +22RE + 31X10.50's = Crappy acceleration and slugish feel... seeing as the 3.Slow doesn't feel much pepier, I'd say go to 4.88's Minimum... if you're gonna go to bigger tires eventualy I'd go to 5.29's... 33X10.50's are next up[ for my truck, and I think I'm gonna get soem 4.88's done up with a Detroit out back...

90runnner

teehee 4.10's and 35x12.50's. im a bad boy

deathrunner

I ran 33's and 4.10s behind my 22re for 2 years. It is slow as hell. You have to slip 1st gear to get rolling, even on the slightest incline. 4th gear acts as a really high 5th gear and 5th gear is completely useless.

4.88's and 33's are great. It stillisn't gonna be a speed demon, but it actual pulls in the propper ranges now.

Silver_Truck

4.10s 33s and the v6 will be fine i ran it for 8-9 months and yes its slower but i lived with it just fine I could do 70 and go up hills, for the most part i only really noticed it when going off road or trying to accelerate fromn a stop on STEEP hills (not regular hills) 4.88s are spot on for 34s for 33s you'll be a bit overgeared but theres nothing you can do about that as they're as close as you'll get. Just put the 33s on and drive it you'll be able to save up for gears while still being able to drive and wheel. Also Search we've had so many threads on this topic lately.

4Mogger

X2. Toyotas like to rev and 4.88's would be the absolute minimum. I would just go 5.71 and with 33's in 5th gear at 60mph= 3129 rpm. Anything less will make 5th gear pretty useless. And you know you will eventually have at least 35's on there so may as well just do it once.

tc

Umm .. yeah - but we "normal" people probably need to take your gearing advise with a grain of salt LOL ... what is the effective ratio of the 4Mogger by the time you get through all the reduction?

I know the engine "likes" it, but I still can't bring myself to accept the sound of it revving so high all the time...

JEDI87

Well,on my 87 with a 22re and 235/75/15's and 4.10 gears was decent.I installed a 3" body lift and 33's and it was a dog,but do able.It was like that for about 3 years till I installed a fully built 22re,climbed and accellerated better but it wasn't enough.I dropped in some 4.88's and WOW!what a difference.The rpm's are right in the sweet spot now and I have no problem climbing the 3,500 ft. drive to work everyday and actually pass people now.I was neck and neck with a 3rd gen the otherday!

-MaTTi-

I like my 4.10 gears with 33x10.50R15. Just optimal, I think (for good torque diesel engine).

midiwall

This guide can give you an idea of what to expect...
http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/asset...gear-ratio.htm

Don't take the RPMs as exact, that will of course depend on your final gear ratio, but the chart will show you how RPMs will change in terms of percentages.

BAZ

Wow, nice chart. Apparently 4.10's (well, 4.11's) would yield "best overall performance"w/33's.

I wonder how much width plays into that. Like a 10.5" versus a 12.5" width.

LOCKnGO

Damn 4.11 and 35" tires puts me in the blue? I remember my gas milage was way better back I had 33"s. Also stop and go traffic wasn't so bad either.

On the trail thats a different story though.

midiwall

There was a thread around here somewhere that talked about this - "this" being the rolling resistance. If I remember right, someone showed the math behind the amount of tread in contact with the road in both cases then worked out what the added resistance (when moving from 10.5" to 12.5") would cost you in economy.


Remember that chart is a guideline, it doesn't take into account your tranny gear ratio, only the rearend. But in general, moving to a larger tire without regearing will reduce the engine RPMs needed to maintain a certain speed. If the engine's running slower, then it's using less fuel, and of course that's better economy.

Try this... Head out onto the highway, hold 65mph and note the engine RPMs (the more accurate the better of course). Then come back to that chart and lookup your present tire size against your rearend ratio. Divide the RPM number on the chart into the real world number you got on the highway. That's your "multiplier" for the rest of the chart. Now you can apply that multiplier across the other numbers to get a feel for what your real world will be with other tires/gears.

For example, I run 31" tires and have a 4.11 final. The chart says "2896" for RPM which is WAY high for me (I'm an auto with overdrive).

My real world at 65 is around 2100, so I would:Which means that if I went to 33's, and stayed with a 4.11 rearend, then my new RPMs should be:Now, the whole color thing is "weird" as well. They're thinking based on how efficient an unknown benchmark engine is. It could be a inline 4 that likes to run fast, or a V8 that pulls a lot of torque out of the bottom.

So, don't look at the coloring as some hot zone that you should be sitting in. If your engine runs "well" in the RPM zone it's in with your current tire size, then you have to again use your multiplier to figure on what you'd need to do for gearing to get back to where you were.


BASICALLY - while I think that chart has some merit, it's generally useless without being tweaked for the engine and _overall_ gearing for a specific application. It looks pretty, but it's not an end all know-it-all.

I posted it it so that you can see the "delta" (percentage of difference) of change based on tire size and gearing.


EDIT: hahaha... LOCKnGO, I just noticed your sig "if it's simple, then it's wrong". That describes this chart.

tc

Those charts don't work for Toyota - they are all designed around domestic full size trucks. Our transmission ratios are much lower to make up for the limited engine displacement. Our engines LIKE to be revved a little bit, so going higher gearing will actually hurt your fuel economy.

You can use the actual calculator on http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/ORS/gear_calculator.asp

Bobakazi

I ran 4.10s with 33's for 10 years. It was fine. Of course, I do not view my truck as a race car, and I never pulled anything. It is all perspective. On the other hand, I really do like my setup now, and would not go back. It's a money thing. If you can easily afford it, change the gears of course. Otherwise, run your 33's with your stock gears and see if you like it.

kyle_22r

i run 4.10s with my 30x9.5 tires on my '91 truck. i have no problems getting up to speed on the freeway or driving around town. actually, it'd be better if i replaced my clutch as that's the limiting factor for me(probably the original, some woman owned the truck before me), since if i hit the gas hard in 4th gear it'll break loose and slip.