Well,
I spent the $105 to get a new thermo time switch, a damn 2 wire sensor that cost toyota (or nippon denso, or whoever built it!) no more than $4 to manufacture. it was $130 list, but i got the 20% off cause i work for a shop.
that helped a bit.
but i'm still in a rut. my truck will start when it's hot...but only when it WANTS to! argh!
I will look again for vaccuum leaks as was suggested on another board or another post i made here, but am still dumbfounded.
Sluggo thu Mule, my truck, will start up everytime when cold. Sometimes, when it's hot, it'll turn over plenty fast for 5-10 seconds and then it sounds like it is turning over just a bit faster, and that's enough to make it fire. I know on my 914 and our old VW bus (same starter, same basic type 4 motor) it wouldn't like to start when hot, but this was due to the resistance in the starter going up and it wouldn't even turn over.
I don't have that problem, sounds as though it's turning over plenty fast enough to me.
I think i'll do a fuel pressure test tuesday evening to check that. and i never have adjusted my valves either.... will the dealership do a valve shim exchange like bike shops do for like $5/shim?
has everyone else adjusted their valves every 60k, or slacked off like me (i'm at 156k now.)
I did run 2 cans of amsoil power foam through the intake several months ago, it did clean out a good bit of carbon goop. anyone think some injector cleaner is in order?
i dunno, but it's annoying the crap out of me. i replaced the ignition module, that $385 @ the dealer part that's screwed to the coil w/ a junkyard unit for $50 last january, and it's no longer throwing the code for a bad ignitor, but could this junkyard dog have taken a dump on me and wants me to pony up the $350 or whatever recockulous $$$ yota wants for this part again? i'll paper clip it again and check for any codes, but i did it a few weeks ago, and according to the computer, everything was AOK.
(a bad O2 sensor won't cause non-starting when it's hot, will it? mine is original as far as i know. is there any resistance test one can do to see if the OEM part is still kosher, or is it just one of those "hey man, that thing is 15 yrs old, chuck it and replace it, and by all means, ENJOY getting it out of the pipe!")

 

bump!
anyone, buehler...buehler?
my boss suggested checking fuel pressure. someone else said it should be 36-42 psi, and checking @ the cold start injector is a good, easy idea. but that doesn't make too much sense yet. starts AOK when cold, only the hot start is the bitch, and at times it cranks over for a while until the starter sounds like it's reached terminal speed, then it sometimes fires, other times it gives me the fiinger and begs to sit several more hrs.
HELP!

 

Did you ever replace the fuel filter?

 

yes i did, recently! PITA and spensive...more spensive than PITA though.
maybe the new one is STUFFED w/ schwag and glarbage, that's the way those Purolator guys do it....."yeah, sure....yall git Pyure O'l Latur!...but ▓▓▓▓ if yur ever gittin any feyul outah our filtaz!"
still banging head against wall, dad was a PITA (god, gotta be my new acronym of the day!) and wouldn't let me drive my truk 2 work today to check fuel pressure and do a leak down....said there was too much ▓▓▓▓ under it and i dind't have time to move it all.
c'mon dad, it ain't my 914, all i had to do was straighten the wheel and back the f up!
hope that helps, thankx for the quicky reply mt goat.
late,
(back to doing the daily stock order from WorldSMACK be4 9:30...ugh)
Schump
parts manager/parts whore
Volkswerks

 

It looks like last year, the $50 junkyard ignitor did just what it was supposed to do...fail! like the OEM one.
so...kind of whooops on my end...i had my truck towed to my friend's shop as it still wouldn't throw any codes and it wouldn't start at all.
I should have YELLED @ him that "I'm pretty damned sure it's electrical!!!" but I forgot to. He assumed it was the EGR (why??) and when removing the rusty EGR, it fell apart.
That cost me the $$$^3 of the factory EGR and more labor to remove/install it. Turned out the no starting culprit was the ignition module, which is bolted to the coil. So....$900 later, my truck runs like it usually does, but I felt bad as it was only the 2nd time I EVER had to pay a mechanic to diagnose or fix my vehicle.






Now, after 6" of snow and trying to tighten the front wheel bearings, and needing an inspection (due 2 days ago) Sluggo is getting better but still e mileage, and the left front hub is locked in 4WD...wtf? Must've put it back on the wrong way or something...will repost a ? on that, did it just as Haynes manual suggested to no avail. Looked kosher inside though...

[btw: the 1st time i ever paid a mechanic was 1/2 hr @ Campus Exxon in Blacksburg, VA w/ my 1985 Nissan Maxima/Minima aka The Meatwagon...vintage 1985 w/ 223k on the clock and that vintage and next model maxima had notoriously weak auto trannys. So named "The Meatwagon" as she was 2 tone brown station wagon w/ the 1980's couch-like felt seats w/ buttons, and she even talked to you ...'left door is open'...'right door is open'...'parking brake is on'...'WHY are you driving me 1950 miles from the Poconos to Vail w/ a motorcycle in tow in 33 hrs straight w/ your friend???' Anyhow, the mechanic @ the Exxon said in a redneck tone "I'm surprised she made it round thu block! You got AAA+?"
me-"Why yes, of course I do..."
wrench-"Well then, get a case of beer and git on home. The ring gear is about to fall off the differential!. How far u gotta go?"
me-"ONLY 260 miles back to Vienna..."
wrench-"Well, , drive her home till she dies, then crack open a beer or two and wait for AAA. Git it towed 95 miles, get dropped off at another gas station, have another beer, and get it towed another 95 miles!"
Somehow, the MeatWagon made it home, and we wrote it off on taxes for the $3000 book value it still had. They probably 'd it at the junk yard just for fun!!]