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The cylinder wall has some mild scoring in the bottom right on that photo. I am gonna have to leave it. I think it is pretty minimal. All six cylindars had a layer of black carbon buildup. None were clean really. The one with the dents is the cleanest.
Today I did the front main seal and buttoned up the bottom end. I will do the rear main seal when I take it off the stand and right before I put it in the truck. Think my crazy paint job will survive the first week? The kit I got came with two pretty thick pan gaskets that are too thick for the tiny pan bolts. I robbed some 10mm bolts off of the donor 4runner but I have had this problem before. The pan isn't supposed to be glued down is it?
FIPG would make a lot of sense for those short little bolts. Has anybody used the gaskets? I have never had much luck with using FIPG on my oil pans but I have never had it as easy to get it clean as I do now. It would be pretty easy to pull the pan off right now but once I put glue on it, that option is gone.
Question..... I am putting a 95 engine into an 89 truck and using the wire harness and ECU from the older truck. The distributors are not the same but I need to use the 95 distributor. Does anyone know what wires to connect when splicing the 95 wiring I to the 89 harness? I have a green white red and black wire on the 95 side and a green white red and yellow wire on the 89 side. I have looked all over and can't find which wires connect together
This is how your adapter should look if that is the route you choose to take like I did. (Sorry about the solder job in this photo. It was fixed before it became the permanent solution. 92+ dizzy wire coding Coloring of 92+ dizzy pigtail 89-not sure
ECU wiring codes/colors 3vze wire harness to dizzy colors
I solved it. It took me all day and countless forum threads as well as google search for all the photos I could come up with on distributors for the 89 and the 95. The most helpful guy on Yotatech was Mudhippy for sure. That guy shows up in every thread I ever need I feel like.
When it comes to connecting the 89 wire harness to the 95 distributor, there are 4 wires. 4 wires for the distributor and 4 wires for the harness. Beautiful. Looks like they match up just right. The colors from the 95 distributor (the pigtail that you have to chop off the 95 donor vehicle you have outback because the distributor itself does not have pigtails. just a hard-mounted wire harness) are red, green, black, and white. The wires from the 89 distributor pigtail (the one that you chopped off the 89 distributor because it does have a wire harness) are red, green, white, and yellow. Now.... if you look even closer at the 89 wire harness that is attached to the engine you will notice that the wire harness is colored red, green, white, and black. why the distributor wire harness has different colors I have no idea... what I do know is this:
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT HOOK THE GREEN-GREEN RED-RED WHITE-WHITE BLACK-YELLOW FROM THE 89 DIZZY HARNESS TO THE 95 DISTRIBUTOR PIGTAIL!
You will be so excited to hear the engine running under its own power (although badly) that you will start it over and over again while the engine is backfiring and struggling. This will rip your starter straight out of your pathetic aluminum bell-housing long before your starter unhooks itself and wont even try to start again. I assume you will know why I know. I repeat, DO NOT ASSUME THAT 3 OF THE 4 WIRES BEING THE SAME SAME COLOR IS A GOOD SIGN. It is not.... In the end actually for me the black-yellow connection that I thought was wrong was actually the only of the 4 connections that was correct. So... in hopes that I can keep the next poor fool from making the same mistakes I did I hope to make this post as clear as possible for anyone who needs to attach a 89 wire harness to a 95 dizzy. I will provide easy to see pictures (though it might take me a day or so) and explanations. I also plan to link this post to a couple other threads that were easy to find in my googling (yes I know that is a crime but I would like for the next guy to see the right answers easily).
89-91 distributor has a wire harness with like 6 inches of wire going from the distributor to the plug you attach to the truck's wire harness. these wires will be as follows: NE G1 G- G2
(THANK YOU MUDHIPPY! You glorious intelligent 3vze rescuer you....)
The 92-95 distributor has no wires just a harness. You need to get a pigtail off a donor vehicle if you intend to make an adapter harness like I did. the wires are as follows: G-
G2-black G1 NE
(I believe I gained that from mudhippy as well who posted pictures of the 93 FSM which i will include in a bit)
Honestly, at this point just match the correct "G"s together and you are good to go, just ignore the colors completely. They mean nothing to you. As long as you never look at the 89 truck wire harness you wont get terribly confused.
Now, the 89 truck wire harness has the colors :
G2-black G- G1 NE
You will notice that these colors match both the colors and the correct codes as the 95 distributor. Had you noticed that before or had you wanted to chop the 89 version harness off completely and just solder the 95 in place for a permanently 95 dizzy setup you would have had zero problems with this little job. If you either wanted to build a cute little adapter so that you truck could take the 89 or the 95 dizzy (which might be stupid because if you have a 95 3vze head it wont accept an 89 dizzy anyway) or you were too stupid to notice the differences in color between the 89 dizzy and the 89 wire harness then you will have struggled to figure out which wires go where.
Recap....
1. Follow the color codes above to connect everything up right.
2. If you hook the 89 dizzy wires to the 95 dizzy wires based on colors alone you will have a very badly running engine and likely rip the threads off of your starter bolt holes
3. The 89 wires from the ecu and harness match perfectly with the 95 pigtail you chopped off your donor
4. If you are reading this and see a flaw in my posting PLEASE TELL ME. My rig runs good now and I am happy but I realize I make mistakes and do not want the next guy to make mine over again.
Maybe one day when I have a few bucks I will need to look into it. For now... I just want another 100,000 out of this here mediocre engine of mine. Other than my time I don't think this job will have cost me a dime in the end.
I am rebuilding the heads on my 91 truck with the 3vze in it, i bought some ebay headers for like $200 and they have the EGR hook ups as well.
i would advise changing the head gaskets since you already have it out of the truck, plus any thing that you can do maintenance wise, water pump, timing belt, tensioner, idler puller, any new gaskets and seals that you can while you have the motor out of the truck
will make it that much easier instead of getting the motor in the truck and a few miles down the road and having to replace them anyways. Just my thoughts.
maybe new plugs, wires etc. ... you get the idea... make things easier for yourself now and have the piece of mind when you get the engine back in the truck that its up to par and will run a whole lot better as well.
also may look into new motor mount bushings to have the engine sit in there nice and tight, maybe run some nice high mileage oil through it as well, ( I run Royal Purple HMX high mileage)
Hiya mr Dan.
Do you have a link to those headers you speak of?
it looks like the tip of a spark plug broke off and was knocked around in that cylinder for a while. Some of those NGK/Iridium plugs that have a point on the end, rather than a flat surface, tend to break off.
10-07-2017, 07:52 PM
