Jonathan Schmidt

Hi guys, I'm working on a 92 Toyota sr5 4x4 pickup with a 3vze. The truck runs for a couple seconds then dies. After multiple attempts to start it I get code 14. I've been following the 93 fsm, but thought I'd get some advice on what tests I should be following.

The previous owner replaced the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator for them after getting numbers that were a couple psi too low. With correct fuel pressure it still wouldn't run. While attempting to follow the troubleshooting steps from IG2-195 in the fsm was able to get the truck to start, idle, and run like normal. I recommended they clean/replace grounds after I got resistance values ranging from 15-33 ohms between battery, block, body, and ecu. Shortly after that the truck returned to dying shortly after start-up.

The owner decided sell the truck to me for 500 after getting frustrated and giving up. So I started by giving it a new battery and replacing the main power and ground connections. 2/0 from battery to starter, 1/0 from battery to block, 2ga from battery to fuse box, 2ga from intake to firewall, and 4ga from head to fender. Now I get no more than .3 ohms anywhere I test. I haven't found any ground connection to the frame. Still nothing.

I replaced plugs, tested the plug wires, checked dizzy pickup coils and air gap, inspected cap and rotor, tested coil, I tested the maf (It had an incorrect resistance value between E2 - Vc). I installed a maf out of an 87 4runner with a 22re (looks identical, but I didn't actually test it). I also tested wiring between the igniter, ecu, and dizzy. I also tested for spark on the number 2 wire and used a noid light on the number 2 injector. Both light up for about 3 revolutions then stop.

The truck also seems to have a problem with the ignition switch sticking. Sometimes it functions normal, sometimes it buzzes after the keys been pulled, a couple times it has continued to crank after pulling the key.

So should I replace the ignition switch? Can I use the one out of the 87 4runner? Could the ignition switch cause the now idle issue?

scope103

You have the classic symptoms of a VAF-COR circuit problem. Fortunately, it is the easiest thing on the whole truck to diagnose. You don't have to replace any parts.

Put your multimeter between FP and E1 in the diag connector. With key to start, you should get 12v. If the engine is sucking air, when you release the key you should still have 12v. If not, the fuel pump stops, and the engine too.

I'd start with the VAF (you don't have an maf; different technology). Check the operation of the FC pin. http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...92volumeai.pdf

Jonathan Schmidt

Thanks. Tested E1 to FP only got about 6 volts.