what up yall, well my motor siezed up from lack of oil thanks to the ex wife, LOL! so i got down back down home and started pullin my motor and i guess i shoulda done a bit more research on removal cause i had zero experience with toyotas FML! on that one. a simple project took darn near 9 hours cause i couldnt turn the engine and get to some of the bolts on the bellhousing and after doin this i will be installin headers cause theres no way im gonna fight with them bolts that are hidden by the crossover. so tonight i drive back up to oregon with it and ill start tearin it down tomorrow and post some pics of what the heck happend. and does anyone make any headers for under 800 bucks withthe crossover? thanks yall wish me luck i know im gonna need it!

 

you don't have to buy headers in order to get rid of the crossover.

i deleted my crossover and am finishing my exhaust tomorrow.


check out some of my threads for rebuild stuff, lots of good info in there

 

Yeah, I feel ya on the crossover dilema. Major PITA!

That's a real good question about the headers. I don't know for sure, but I highly doubt it. Some come with a Y-pipe so you can run a single exhaust though, if that's where you're aimin'.

Like the Doug Thorley shorties for $606.95 from Summit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DTE-505C/

And NWOR headers($???).
http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/v6headers.html

Downey used to sell some that had a crossover pipe included. Downey's out of business for now. So forget getting any from them anytime soon.

Oh...almost forgot...good luck!

 

I go at those tricky bolts from way back with a 3ft extension. haha. works every time.

 

thanks mud, and camo, i was gonna call NWOR today but i just saw they are only open 3 days a week, i hope that dont mean they are that slow, cause ive read a lot of good things bout them. and does anyone have any expericnce with http://www.toyotaperformance.com/ ? they seem to offer a wide varity of products thanks yall.

 

this afternoon i was able to pull my intake plentum off and throttle body and one valve cover all looked good on the cam, which is a bad sign cause that means its probably the bottom end thats toast. and i called NWOR for a price on the 3.0 headers and Y pipe there $1000 buck! wow a lil more than i wanna spend so i guess doug thorley is it. oh yea and they wont have them till the end of february. ill post pics tomorrow. its not as bad as i was thinkin it was by the way all the vaccum hoses are everywhere.

 

Dude.............

It may be too late, but DO NOT take any of the vacuum lines loose on the back of the intake plenum. There are a few near the throttle body, the cold start injector, PCV and a couple others that need to come off, but all those tiny ones on the back LEAVE THEM ON. Once you get the big ones off, you can take that plenum and basically lay it over on the passenger fender. If you take all of those loose, you WILL screw something up and either end up reversing some, or with vacuum leaks. It's a 15-20 year old truck with 15-20 year old lines. They'll crack and break. And the vacuum diagram pretty much sucks.

Also, if the engine is siezed to the point that it won't turn over, you're wasting your time in the top of the motor. That's bottom end all day long. Drain the oil. If you see glitter in the oil, you're had. Realistically, with machine shop fees, parts, and the tools you'll need you would be better off replacing it with a Jasper reman motor, or one from LKQ. Those come with a 3 year, 100,000 mile warranty and it would run you about $200 more than rebuilding your current motor (assuming no MAJOR damage to block or heads). Believe me, I've priced all of this stuff out.

 

Have you ever tried collecting on one of those engine warranties? They make it almost impossible....

 

i looked into some of those kits that you mentioned but they are to dang expensive, with good ol' craigslist ive found a bunch of V6 motors down in eugene i had only the chance to call one guy Ben and he seemed pretty informed said hes sold 4, 3VZEs this week! scary. http://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/2059206567.html . he was offering two different setups

 

i looked into some of those kits that you mentioned but they are to dang expensive, with good ol' craigslist ive found a bunch of V6 motors down in eugene i had only the chance to call one guy Ben and he seemed pretty informed said hes sold 4, 3VZEs this week! scary. http://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/2059206567.html . he was offering two different setups 1 bein a refurb for like 1300ish i think and the other a full rebuild for 1500ish if i recall correctly. but i got my intake plentum off and the drivers side valve cover and found some nice little bits of metal in there. i forgot my camera today so hopefully ill take it to work tomorrow. kinda bad idea of me but i havent been lablin everything as i know i should! but whatev ill figure it out and get her runnin again. and a question does anyone know of a good machine shop they trust around the albany,corvallis,salem,eugene area? cause i know im gonna need to deck the heads and have the block worked on but its so hard to trust someone with that job.

 

Seriously dude, get a reman from a reputable place. I really wouldn't even bother taking yours to a machine shop, because in the end after any kind of work to straighten things, valve job, etc that needs to be done, you'll easily spend $500+ in machine shop fees, for the heads alone. If the block needs work, add another $300-500 Add that to a full rebuild kit with rods, pistons, rings, a gasket kit, and everything else and you'll be upwards of $2000 REAL fast if you ebay everything. And for about the same price, to save weeks of time, tons of work, and add a 3 year warranty I would say it's worth it. Just trust me here, it's well worth it to at least look in to a long block from LKQ, Jasper, Jarco, or somewhere like that.

 

uhm, what?


Why do you need to remove the x over pipe to remove the engine?

I only do that when I'm removing the heads, and I leave the thing bolted together!

I unbolt the manni's from the heads, unbolt the heads, lift one head at a time, pull it towards the center of the vehicle and let the studs pass through the manifold holes, then remove the head...

The x over pipe AND MANIFOLDS stays intact!



And the plenum?

I unbolt the upper from the lower, remove the EGR and just flip it over and rest it on a rag on the fender...

I think the last time I did it one or two lines pulled themselves loose, that's it!


Forget pulling the lines! That's one Japanese jig-saw puzzle you'll never figure out....

 

Listen to these guys about the vacuum lines.


and freakin listen to me about doing the crossover elimination instead of the headers.



spend $600 and gain like 1 or 2 horsepower and a deeper sound.....or spend an extra $50 at the muffler shop and eliminate that POS.

 

Will you fix your avatar already!

 

I x2 what the guy said about deleting your x-over but not getting headers. I put headers on mine and couldn't tell any real difference and they are expensive! Plus they take up quite a bit of room in an already crowded engine bay. I've never done the 3.4 swap, (did a diesel.....) but did have the 3.0 rebuilt, and did the heads again, and the heads one more time (after a header installation, so they don't always save the head gasket). Anyway, for the money, I'd seriously consider a 3.4 swap if you have to spend any kind of serious money getting another 3.0.

 

x a billion on the 3.4 swap....

take your header allowance and apply that to the 3.4... Then never look back.

 

the motor being seized i could not turn it over at all and the bolts on the back of the bellhousing were impossible to get to. on a manual tranny it woulda been easier to get to cause i could have gone through the cab. it was a friggen nightmare im embarrased how long it took seriously, chevy v8s are an hour tops. i will seriously lookin to the crossover camo, howed you do it just drive it down there and have them mock it up or did u just bring the manifold to them ?

 

the 3.4 in time, but i need to just get my truck up from cali so that is priority number 1 for me now.

 

I have a cousin that had his engine "22re" rebuild by a guy in cresswell. Dont know the shops name, But i could get it if you wanted. Running strong since. And everyone local to where i live takes there engines to a place in dexter oregon. Guys Name is Steve, never heard anything bad about him.


Name: Steve's Performance Machine Shop
Street: 38483 Dexter Road
Dexter, or 97431-9725
Phone: (541) 937-3634

But yea, if i was that deep into a v6 i would go 3.4. There is a shop in cresswell that could help you. http://www.toyonlyswaps.com/

 

thanks tyler big help man! ill def call on monday mornin, and huge thanks on the link, that shoud be a big hit in general!