mdyoung

Curious...after you cleared the codes did code 52 come back? I am having a similar issue with my 89 4runner 3.0. I just found a knock sensor harness on ebay and I plan to replace mine. Here is the link if you are looking to change the wiring. http://www.ebay.com/itm/190904342772...84.m1497.l2649

vegasrunner

tore apart dash lastnight cel burnt out swapped and put all back together 52 code came on cleared it and reconnected the knock sensor drove around for 5 mins ran awesome stopped at a light gave it gas cel came on and back to bogging read up on knock sensor if it fails or bad signal it put the truck into safe retarded mode rich as hell. gonna remove the connecter and solder it straight on it. thanks guys hope my troubles helped pin down problems your all having!

Sturmcrow

You might consider changing the knock sensor pigtail before doing anything too drastic that might destroy your $200 knock sensor. I have not done it myself, but assume it is a short section of wire with two connectors. Seems Toyota made it a replaceable part since the wires run through hot, oily places.

vegasrunner

once its apart we will inspect it and see what is needed to be done

vegasrunner

rockauto.com knock sensor 100.00

vegasrunner

yup pigtail is toast all brittle and exposed

Bronson777

It might be a sticking throttle return. Its just left of TB on the bottom. they tend to stick. you can lube it or remove it.

vegasrunner

tb has been cleaned. its the pigtails exposed wire sends bad signal.

skinny

how do you test out the knock sensor
or is it just by code 52

Nissanclubman

The four main things that affect general motor running condition are
1. Throttle position sensor - make sure the signal is smooth through it range.
2. O2 sensor, again probability is Ok but this only affect cruising (closed loop)
3. Engine temp sensor - Affects when the ECU moves into normal operating tuning.
4. AFM - This is the big one. These do a LOT of work and are a high wear item and as they age can have a big impact on the motor running. As they wear the vane can rub on the housing making movement erratic and hence ECU fuel delivery all over the place. I've pulled lots of these down that are thought to be Ok just to find they are sticky both up range and down range and no longer in tune. If they have ever suffered a back fire they are more than likely out of tune. I've seen the vane shaft housings badly crack from a back fire jamming up the whole AFM.

vegasrunner

@skinny i went by the c.e.l and the wire is corroded k.s should last longer then the pitail from what i have been told