scope103

You might want to slow down and be a little more descriptive. No one but you can see your truck. No one on this forum (well, certainly not me) has memorized every wire and ever connector on their truck.

"The wire from the ignition goes ..." I'm guessing you meant to say "the wire from connector I10, which connector goes to the ignition SWITCH, ..."

"out on the other side of the plug below the dash ..." How many plugs would guess are "below the dash"? 30? 50? I have no idea what you're talking about. (And your photo is almost less than no help.)

There IS a 2-pin connector N1

which goes to a Noise Filter. One pin is W-B to ground, the other is B-R to the ignition switch (connector I-10). B-R should have battery voltage with key-on, not all the time.

BUCKET93TOY

Scope- you're right. It made sense to me as I was typing it because I had just been dealing with those certain connectors and wires. It's been a few days now since I worked on the truck and I just re-read my last post... I have no idea what I was talking about so how could I expect you guys to? LOL

I was back at it today with the multimeter and I took lots of photos.


R/B wire measuring 10.2v

R/B wire voltage

R/B wire 1C #4

B/R fat wire I was referring to in my previous post.

Connection below steering column I was referring to in my previous post were it goes from B/R to W on the other side.

Circled spade is still reading 10.2v

Voltage of above circled spade in integration box

R/B wire traces to this female spade for the tailight relay. This connector is reading 10.2v.



Tail light fuse registering 0v with or without the lights on and/or brake pedal depressed.

Stop fuse registering 0.25v with or without lights on and/or brake pedal depressed.

stop fuse voltage reading

Turn fuse reads 12.3v

I cannot find the schematic for this connection but this wire is reading 11.24v

Again I cannot find the schematic for this connection. R wire reads 0.24v

I have no idea what any of this means and I apologize if I should be including more or different information. Let me know what else I should be doing or possibly doing differently. I really appreciate everyone's help and patience with this.

warmonger88

I feel your pain man, I've been looking for accurate wiring diagrams for my 4runner for months. Sometimes I get lucky and catch a short on accident, but right now I'm chasing a draw on my battery for two weeks now....

scope103

Just talking about your last two photos.

Your connector has the number 84310-35480 . Gee, that sounds like a part number! (Connectors don't usually have whole part numbers, and when there is a molded number, it may be 1/2 of the part number for the connector body. If you're lucky.) So what part is it? Go to a dealer site (e.g., https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/pro...rm=84310-35480) and search for the number. Ah ha! It's the SWITCH ASSY, TURN SIGNAL .

Now, go to one of the online FSMs (that are cited frequently in these pages) http://web.archive.org/web/201102052.../4lighting.pdf You're looking at connector B, pins 8 and 11. Pin 8 goes to the RH turn signal, 11 grounds when you turn the stalk-switch to close the taillight relay.

So why do you have voltage on either pin? With the lights off, pin 11 is just connected through the taillight relay to battery. Perhaps something is pulling just enough current through the relay coil to drop a few volts. I would expect pin 11 to go to ground (closing the relay) when you operate the switch.

What about 8? That's a head-scratcher (it goes to ground through the filaments of the turn signal bulbs). But as I've said, you should never find any voltage other than ground or battery; 10.3v is just not supposed to be anywhere. One way you CAN get this is a broken GROUND, often in the fixture. Then you're connection on pin 8 doesn't go to ground, but rather to where ground "should" be and back through the filaments of the other bulbs to some voltage source. If you have a "bad" ground instead of broken, something could be pulling just enough current through those filaments to cause the voltage crop.

Step 1: turn on the taillights. Did pin 11 go to ground?

Step 2: open up a RH turn signal fixture (I'd start with the back; they tend to corrode faster). Do you get the same 10.3v on the center pin of the turn signal bulb? Does it matter if the bulb is out? Do you get any voltage on the barrel side of the bulb base (which should be at ground)?

BUCKET93TOY

Pin 11 does go to ground when I turn on the lights (combination switch). I opened up both taillight housings and got mixed readings on the taillight/stop and turn signal sockets on both sides. I found a trailer pigtail spliced into the taillight wiring harness that had chunks of coating missing and wedged against the sheetmetal of the bed. I thought maybe it was grounding there so I cut out the trailer connection and that made no difference. I went back up to the cab and tested all of the fuses again in the integration relay. #3 (tail) fuse read 0v. #6 (stop) fuse read 9.7v. The #2 pin on the taillight relay connection also read 9.7v.

Turn signals: While they were flashing I measured the center of the sockets. The power probe was displaying "ground" with voltages between 3.4v to 5.6v. If I put power to it, the relay would stop flashing and I got a reading of 11.8v. #9 Turn signal fuse reads 12.2v.

Taillights: I got a reading of 0v on one of the center pins and 0.8v on the other in the same socket. The reading was identical on both RH and LH taillight sockets.

Cruise Control ECU connector: Pin 1 read 10.5v. Pin 17 reads 0.8v. Pin 18 reads 9.7v. Pin 19 reads 11.1v.

I was confused before but now I am absolutely perplexed.I have the FSM chasis repair manual and the FSM wiring book I swear I just stare at the pages trying to make sense of it all and I feel more lost. I saw some sort of tool that send a tone through the circuit and you use a transmitter to find the exact location of the short. Its made by Power Probe... are they any good?

Turn signal socket (turn signals OFF)

Put power to turn signal center pin but only allows 11.8v

#3 fuse

#6 fuse

LH taillight center pin

LH taillight other center pin

RH taillight center pin

RH taillight other center pin

LH turn signal (putting power to it thru power probe)

LH turn signal high reading (while flashing)

LH turn signal low reading (while flashing)

RH turn signal (putting power to it thru power probe)

RH turn signal low reading (while flashing)

RH turn signal high reading (while flashing)

#2 pin taillight relay connection

#10 pin Speed Control ECU

#17 pin Speed Control ECU

#17 pin Speed Control ECU

#18 pin Speed Control ECU

#18 pin speed control ECU

#19 pin Speed Control ECU

#19 pin Speed Control ECU

BUCKET93TOY

Well... I stared at the schematics for about 3 hours this morning trying to figure out where certain wires went to and which colors they were. I guess part of my frustration is that some of the wire colors aren't the same in my truck as they are in the books (yes, they are for model year 1993). Another frustration is that the white starter relay wire isn't routed the way it shows in the books either so I ended up just jumping 12v to the white starter relay wire similar to how the FSM has it. The truck starts now and appears to have 12.2v everywhere. Now the truck is idling high (2k rpm) and white smoke is coming out from under the intake plenum. It looks like the injectors are leaking fuel. This truck might end up in the shop after all...

superex87

Just an FYI here. I believe you can go to Toyota TIS site and buy a 3 day subscription to have access to most Toyota manuals. Buy the 3 day subscription and download everything you can get your hands on lol. The wiring diagrams are awesome. Color coded and accurate.

Toyota Tis