MAke sure your EGR is working correctly. And your Cat.

There should only be one o2 sensor on your truck BTW.

 

I thought Cali trucks have 2 o2 sensors on em?

 

I checked the EGR valve. I appears to be closed and it opens when I apply vacuum, I checked this both on the bench and with the car running. When I apply vacuum to the EGR valve while the car is at idle it dies which means it is opening properly. The EGR pipes looked clean, no carbon buildup. I did get a check engine light for the first time this morning right before my smog test with code 71, which indicates that the EGR sensor isn't reading a hot enough temp so that with the high NO would indicate that EGR is my problem.

 

vacuum leak, check all your vacuum hoses, and the intake hose, they tend to crack after time.

 

My 91 Cali 22re pickup has two O2 sensors. My 88 Cali 22re 4Runner doesn't.

 

The EGR valve is operational. The code means that the EGR valve / EGR gas temp wasn't warmed up enough when the ECU tried to open the EGR valve. This could be a faulty temp sensor or an issue with the wiring. Also could be an engine/coolant temp sensor telling the ECU the engine is warmed up enough to use EGR functionality when in actuality the engine isn't warmed enough.
Given how much you failed the NOx emissions, I'd be inclined to say your converter is gone.

 

That makes sense that the cat would be bad. It was way over. My CO% was .01 where max was .9 meaning I need a lot more "conversion" I think. I also pulled the plugs today and they are gone, the electrode is totally worn away. I measured the gap on one and it was 1.2mm. I am picking up some new plugs and wires tomorrow. Hopefully the plugs have something to do with the low idle. I failed timing because my idle was too low. I checked the timing and it was about 12 BTDC. That doesn't seem to be too far off. I also played with the dizzy a little and the truck idled best when it was way advanced, probably 30 or so BTDC.

 

if you didn't jumper the proper terminals in the diagnostic connector, playing with the timing doesn't mean much.

 

The truck passed the smog check today. It turned out to be an EGR issue. After studying the FSM I was able to test all the components. First of all the vacuum ports at the throttle body were plugged so I removed it and cleaned them. All three vacuum ports at the top of the throttle body should have vacuum when the engine is revved. Then the vacuum hoses were not routed correctly at the VSV AND the VSV was stuck shut. I got a new VSV and the numbers for NO were now 181 and 192 (down from 1771!). The EGR does make that much difference. I also noticed that fixing the EGR system fixed an issue I had were the truck was running hot after a long hill on the way to work. Since the fix the temp hasn't gotten above half where before it would get almost to the red. Something to think about for those who want to remove the EGR.

Jesse

 

considering EGR is there to recirculate exhuast gases into the motor to cool the combustion chamber temperture. Probly not the best idea to remove the egr system, especially on the 3.0 motor.

 

if any body has had heating problems her IT IS ME ive got 91 3vze took a trip to vegas last year from los ang. towing a small trailer for 1500 lbs everything was cool for 1 hour till the elev. hit 3000 ft temp was hot then 5000 ft 6000 ft i stopped at the gas station and got 5 bags of ice and right awat on top in the intake and rad it helped but in no way brought it down i madit to vegas on ice but im saving for a custom alum rad with a elect fan and manual act fan so i can cool it manually the stock coopper and brass rad just dont cut it in so cal if you tow for and long distance ohhhh forgot to say put in a 150 ' thermostat instead OF THE 180 THAT IS IN THERE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Mick, check your EGR and make sure there is vacuum at the valve when the motor is warm. It could be any easy fix to bring your temps down some. I agree that the cooling system on that motor was never great and if improved will bring temps down as well. I do have an electric fan but I still saw overheating after about 20 minutes of driving whenever the truck was under heavy load. When my truck was at the smog shop I had the same issue when they applied load to the dyno during the test, the motor it got really hot. The previous owner had removed the brush guard under the radiator and the bottom of the front bumper to improve cooling. That did seem to work okay because I didn't see the over heating issue until I put that stuff back on .