After reading other forums and talking to some mechanics. We think it could be a leaky injector. Would a fuel pressure test help figure that out. If so is there any easy way to go about this?

 

For leaky injector I would try Seafoam, or techtron into the gas tank, from 1/4 to full tank. Sure beats changing an injector. However, you cannot really clean an injector on the car, unless you ship it to someone that cleans and measures them.

Are your plugs, wire and cap good? This would make starting in colder weather much harder.

Wet plugs, all just one. Plugs wet before starting?

 

They are all new. It definitely helped when I changed it but its still a hard start. Other posts said it could be a leaky injector. In the morning when I'd it starts after a ton of cranking, there's smoke from what seems to be burning gas.

 

Anyluck so far?

Wet plugs after trying to start it could be a flooding problem. Do you have spark at the plugs when you first try to start it. Yes each time you start the cold injector adds fuel.

Six leaking injectors would be hard to believe but it can happen. Girlfriends 92 was hard to start when hot because the cold start injector was leaking fuel, seafoam fixed that one. It would start at -40C but was a real pain when hot 15 - 20 minutes after highway runs.

Something is acting up, bad wire someplace? Fuel pressure? Igniter would give you a code.

Good Luck

 

Well we've had a change in weather. It's about 50 in the morning the truck starts after a few turns. When it gets hot its starts instantly. My wife wants me to give up since its warm now, but it will bug the hell out if me if I don't figure this out. The truck has a lot if hesitation when driving. I suspect the tps sensor needs adjustment too. I've tried to figure out how to do that but it's confusing for a novice like me. I've started it in the morning and waited 8 or 9 hours to start it. It's starting ok. But keep in mind it's warm now.

 

Today it was in the 40s I went out this morning and truck wouldn't start. The whole past week it's been starting like a champ, it's been fairly warm though . Today didn't start at all. Is there anything else I can try ? I've changed everything. Pulled the coldstart injector too. It sprays a good mist. It's only when it's cold. Otherwise the truck runs pretty good

 

Any mechanics in the San Antonio area that could help trouble shoot this? This is exactly why I want to do a 3.4 swap

 

Not having any luck.

1. Electrical problem, bad or corroded connection.
2. When it's cold you have spark? It would appear to be electrical or ignition problem since when it does start chugs and smells of gas.
3.Timing has been set correctly? Ignition timing for start up is from coils in distrubitor and igniter that tells ECU which uses basic information. Once started it starts monitoring other sensors.
4. Temperature is for injector pulse length and fuel control.

Best gues dist, igniter or bad connection would be my guess.

Do not really know, and it sucks when it's cold.

 

Yeah it does suck. It has spark that's for sure. I guess I can replace the coil a d igniter. I noticed they are attached up each other. Is this gonna be an expensive part ? Also I do not know anything about setting timing. Could that really effect the coldstart?

 

Coil is not bad but Ingniter is pricey.

Yes timing will affect cold weather starting as the ECU uses this as it's base.

But I would try to find problems first.

Compression test.

This just started with cold weather.

Hans

 

Replaced the coil since then its been starting perfect. I guess the coil was working only sometimes. Thanks for the help Hans.

 

Hi, I have been having a very similar problem to yours and have been searching the forums here and not had much luck figuring it out, before you replaced your coil did you also have really bad gas mileage? Mine is right around 13 mpg.

 

Yeah it had bad gas milage

 

Ok, definitely going to try that then. Thank you very much.

 

Hi Folks, new here and looking for a solution to my problem. Hence dragging up the old thread.
My 1995 3vze has gotten too cranky to start. I'm in Puerto Rico and its always warm here! From dead 'cold' it takes a lot of cranking and judicious application of the accelerator to get it started. Then it runs horribly rough, blowing smoke as if it were overly rich, for several minutes then it smooths out nicely and is somewhat driveable. But once its a tad warm it will not restart no matter what.

Local mechanic gave up on it and doesn't want to see it again so I'm on my own.

Does this symptom sound like the cold start injector or its timer? Hard to glean from previous posts where COLD is actually a factor unlike here.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

 

Even if the cold start injector is bad, it would start after a bit of cranking. If its warm it shouldn't really need too much cranking at all. Have you replaced the usual things? Plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Even the coil is a 20 dollar replacement. You can pull the injector and turn the key. It should shoot a mist of fuel.

 

If the cold start injector timer is bad (shorted), it could be dumping fuel in the whole time you're cranking. It will shut off once you let go of the key, but the excess fuel will give you a cloud of smoke until you burn up the excess. Once it's warm, the timer should prevent the CSI from opening, but if the timer is shorted the CSI will flood the warm engine preventing it from starting.

If this is the case, the test is easy; disconnect the electrical connector to the CSI.

And lay off the accelerator. Back in the day (way back!), carburetors had accelerator pumps, so by dancing on the pedal you could temporarily richen the mixture. With fuel injection, that crap is long-gone. (Sigh ... if it does work for you, it may be simply that opening the throttle is leaning your over-rich mixture enough to start.)

 

When you pull the injector to test it. You'll see how much fuel your pumping out every time you turn the key. It is likely why it's smokey. Your other injectors could be leaking as well.

 

Good tips and thanks guys. I guess part of the process is understanding how the darn thing works and getting a feel for what is being described as cold vs hot. Wonder if in this warm environment the whole 'cold injector' scheme could be bypassed?

I'll continue digging and testing to the extent that I can. I imagine a real Toyota tech at a dealership could make short work of this but I'm on a little offshore island and getting the beast trucked over to a dealer is an expensive proposition. I can shotgun a lot of parts for less money...and THEN spend the money to tow it over if I have no luck - haha.

 

Here is the fsm test for cold start injector http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...88coldstar.pdf If you have a voltmeter you can test the resistance on the switch http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ne/97colds.pdf