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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

35s on a 89

Old Aug 5, 2007 | 08:55 AM
  #21  
geTBeNt2NIghT's Avatar
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From: newnan, georgia
no, no, no...come now, we all know body lifts are no bueno.
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 09:24 AM
  #22  
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From: Chico Republic, NOR*CAL
Originally Posted by geTBeNt2NIghT
no, no, no...come now, we all know body lifts are no bueno.
ya but it'll fit big tires and show off that well established frame rust. mmmmmm.......classy.

if that's what you're going for, then i'm sure i could help anyone fab up a 6-10" body lift. jk.....maybe
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 09:53 AM
  #23  
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From: Houston, TX
Wink

Hey now im payin for this myself and I payed for the truck. That is what happens when you work 10pm-9am stocking at Academy sports and outdoors. But thanks for the help guys I gonna do what I got to do to make 35bfg's fit then i'll post some pics. One more question can I regear the rear end without doing the front end and just not locking it into 4lo/hi.

Last edited by red89yota; Aug 5, 2007 at 09:59 AM.
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 09:58 AM
  #24  
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From: SouthEast Arkansas
post up when you break your cv joint the one time you go offroad.
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 10:03 AM
  #25  
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by Tim_Snapple76
post up when you break your cv joint the one time you go offroad.
Thats why I dont go rock climing like all of yall do.
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 10:03 AM
  #26  
ewong's Avatar
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From: Philly PA
Originally Posted by red89yota
Hey now im payin for this myself and I payed for the truck. That is what happens when you work 10pm-9am stocking at Academy sports and outdoors. But thanks for the help guys I gonna do what I got to do to make 35bfg's fit then i'll post some pics.
Kudos for working...
I only worked 6pm till midnight.. and I STILL fell asleep in class.
That didn't help much in college as I was LOST in Calc2, EE101 etc...

Anyways..

PROPER way to jam 35's is to do a SAS up front and longer springs out back
translation - WELDING

Shortcut way is a 4" IFS lift kit and springs/blocks in back
-- has all kinds of drawbacks to do this but it will be on there and it will be lifted

If you really need the truck to DRIVE to work and things... stick to 33"

If its for "show" - get the 35"s on your existing setup and get a beater car to drive when you need to drive...
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 10:04 AM
  #27  
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From: Arvada, Colorado
Originally Posted by red89yota
Hey now im payin for this myself and I payed for the truck. That is what happens when you work 10pm-9am stocking at Academy sports and outdoors. But thanks for the help guys I gonna do what I got to do to make 35bfg's fit then i'll post some pics. One more question can I regear the rear end without doing the front end and just not locking it into 4lo/hi.
You could do this, but you could absolutely never use 4wd at all until you got the front done too.

Also, if you are going with BFG's, DO NOT get the AT's if you go in the mud at all.

I'd leave the gearing alone until you can afford both.
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 10:07 AM
  #28  
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by AxleIke
You could do this, but you could absolutely never use 4wd at all until you got the front done too.

Also, if you are going with BFG's, DO NOT get the AT's if you go in the mud at all.

I'd leave the gearing alone until you can afford both.
See I have 32ko's now and they do pretty good in the mud and I seen people get 90,000 miles on them.
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 10:14 AM
  #29  
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From: SouthEast Arkansas
i live in southeast arkansas. there is no rocks here. i wouldnt say that many of us rock crawl. x2 on the regear.
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 11:23 AM
  #30  
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From: Arvada, Colorado
I have 33" At's. I drive strictly on dirt and rocks. I never go in the mud.

On the chance that it rains on a run, if it gets muddy, my A/T's fill with mud, and become like slicks. Its really cute to see a double locked truck spin all four tires at a 100:1 crawl ratio on the trail with no obstacle except a couple of degree incline, and be standing still. No forward motion

Also, don't worry about the CV axle problem. Keep the angles good (ie. don't crank the t-bars) and don't get a heavy foot on the skinny pedal, and you'll be fine with the 35's. If you start mashing the gas, you'll break stuff.
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 11:27 AM
  #31  
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by AxleIke
I have 33" At's. I drive strictly on dirt and rocks. I never go in the mud.

On the chance that it rains on a run, if it gets muddy, my A/T's fill with mud, and become like slicks. Its really cute to see a double locked truck spin all four tires at a 100:1 crawl ratio on the trail with no obstacle except a couple of degree incline, and be standing still. No forward motion

Also, don't worry about the CV axle problem. Keep the angles good (ie. don't crank the t-bars) and don't get a heavy foot on the skinny pedal, and you'll be fine with the 35's. If you start mashing the gas, you'll break stuff.
Man when im off road I leave it in 4 lo and idle as much as possible. On the street I love goin slow to make all the houston drivers all peed off.
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 09:27 PM
  #32  
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I am running 35's on my 87 4runner. 6" of lift still running ifs, and I still rub a little when offroading. street driving there is no rub. I have already put my rig through some pretty hairy stuff, and I haven't broken anything yet. I drive 53 miles one way every day, and yes, it is very slow. I am planning on regearing, but haven't had the money yet. The lift and the tires were already done when I bought it. I would recommend going with 33's and some lunchbox lockers if you are short on money. With the 35's you definately need to regear, and for that alone you are looking at $1000+ unless you know someone. Then you still have to look at lockers, which you should definately do while your diff is open for the regear. My opinion, go with 33's and lockers for a lower budget, or go with SAS and 35's and regearing and lockers if you have more money.
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 09:31 PM
  #33  
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From: Arvada, Colorado
Originally Posted by syhnthetik
I am running 35's on my 87 4runner. 6" of lift still running ifs, and I still rub a little when offroading. street driving there is no rub. I have already put my rig through some pretty hairy stuff, and I haven't broken anything yet. I drive 53 miles one way every day, and yes, it is very slow. I am planning on regearing, but haven't had the money yet. The lift and the tires were already done when I bought it. I would recommend going with 33's and some lunchbox lockers if you are short on money. With the 35's you definately need to regear, and for that alone you are looking at $1000+ unless you know someone. Then you still have to look at lockers, which you should definately do while your diff is open for the regear. My opinion, go with 33's and lockers for a lower budget, or go with SAS and 35's and regearing and lockers if you have more money.
There you go.

It can be done.

To correct for the rubbing this guy has, you can do less lift and cut fenders.

Or, you can go like me, with 33's, no lift, and a 7k drivetrain that will drive far beyond what i care to take my body through.

Last edited by AxleIke; Aug 6, 2007 at 09:33 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 05:46 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by red89yota
We kids today do not look at ground clearnce we look at cab height you might or might not know that. Poeple think ohh its a toyota it susspose to set with 44s on it. Im just tired of setting equal with my friends 04 z71 with 265/70/16s. But thanks for a answer to my questions guys.

Wow are u serious, hmm Texas ...In washington my group tries to stuff the biggest tires and have the lowest cab height. Toyota with 44's is RETARTED. Sorry about the bashing but I couldnt help my self. And to answer your question yes, 35's even 36's will fit under a four inch lift. You have to take the black front valance off. (deal connected to your bumper) Maybe alittle saw-sal lovin.

Last edited by premirrider; Aug 9, 2007 at 05:48 PM.
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 02:46 AM
  #35  
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From: Central Florida
No reason to bash anyone here...

Down here in the South the mud is all the rage. Big trucks with bigger tires are the norm. I have my truck on 8.5" of lift with 36's and it's considered small by big truck standards.

Is it really that hard to believe that if someone wants to do something different with their truck that it isn't necessarily wrong or bad?

I'd personally much rather see a truck with plenty of clearance over the tires than one that's hacked up to hell and looks like crap. However, I would never take the time to post in your thread that I thought your intentions were wrong or stupid. It's your truck, put a match to it if you please.

The only thing you'll ever hear me say is "it ain't my bag, but do with it as you will..."

Oh and btw, it's retarded retard.

Last edited by ovrrdrive; Aug 10, 2007 at 02:47 AM.
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 06:22 AM
  #36  
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From: Arvada, Colorado
Originally Posted by premirrider
Wow are u serious, hmm Texas ...In washington my group tries to stuff the biggest tires and have the lowest cab height. Toyota with 44's is RETARTED. Sorry about the bashing but I couldnt help my self. And to answer your question yes, 35's even 36's will fit under a four inch lift. You have to take the black front valance off. (deal connected to your bumper) Maybe alittle saw-sal lovin.
While I generally agree with your philosphy on building trucks, I agree with Ovvrdrive's philosophy on bashing. Lower and wider is better, Ground clearance is king. However, 44's on a toyota is what many of the rock trucks around here are running. Big rocks = big tires.
Originally Posted by ovrrdrive
No reason to bash anyone here...

Down here in the South the mud is all the rage. Big trucks with bigger tires are the norm. I have my truck on 8.5" of lift with 36's and it's considered small by big truck standards.

Is it really that hard to believe that if someone wants to do something different with their truck that it isn't necessarily wrong or bad?
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 09:28 PM
  #37  
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at the moment i am riding on 38s but i have 5.29 gears. 6in suspension lift and a 3in body lift. my truck sits higher than pretty much all american trucks. i also have a custom flat bed. its set up for exactly what i use i for. ill post pics soon
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 10:10 PM
  #38  
fork's Avatar
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From: i ka moana
Originally Posted by shaeff
your friends all suck. you'll find that out soon enough. who cares about height if all you're going to do is end up rolling it anyway...

it just sounds like a pissing match to me. the winner will be the person with the deepest pockets.

-shaeff
well put dude.
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 10:46 AM
  #39  
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From: Los Angeles
Originally Posted by ewong
Kudos for working...
I only worked 6pm till midnight.. and I STILL fell asleep in class.
That didn't help much in college as I was LOST in Calc2, EE101 etc...

Anyways..

PROPER way to jam 35's is to do a SAS up front and longer springs out back
translation - WELDING

Shortcut way is a 4" IFS lift kit and springs/blocks in back
-- has all kinds of drawbacks to do this but it will be on there and it will be lifted

If you really need the truck to DRIVE to work and things... stick to 33"

If its for "show" - get the 35"s on your existing setup and get a beater car to drive when you need to drive...
x2 I got my rig SAS'd on 35's and have some light rubbing(4" spring + shackles of course this is after the spring settled), I had 33's on a 4" IFS lift, till I broke it in the mud doing light wheeling oddly enough. Anyway I am now in the market for a beater car as I have to commute about 50-60 miles each way per day to school/work and the cost of gas is outrageous. If you do the 35's I agree with the others and do the re-gearing as well. 44"s on a Toyota wow that seems like some serious instability. I may actually go down to 33's when I replace my current set of tires, if not I will have to get new springs, I'm not sure what I want to do yet. I haven't had a lot of wheeling time this summer due to school and other issues.

I
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