347 V8 4Runner - Updated
08-22-2013, 04:54 PM
#61
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I’ve finally got to finishing the airbox and here’s comparison pics of the old and new. As can be seen the actual intake diameter is now much larger and the tube is 4” versus 3 ½” so hopefully lack of air should not be an issue now. I’ll test it with the smaller green filter first.
New one
Comparisons
Also had to fix an issue that drove me nuts. After fitting the TB I went to set the TPS voltage and there was no power at all. After a basic recheck it could only be a harness issue so I had no alternative than to pull the harness for a recheck.
One of the main objectives behind these manifold changes besides more grunt
was to make it easier to access the engine etc should I have any issues in my travels. When trying to remove the harness I soon realized I had failed badly with this objective as now being hidden it took forever to get it off and I broke 3 injector clips doing so. I had to also remove the fuel rails which eventually also led to an injector popping out and a manifold soaked in fuel. Was not happy.
I had fitted it whilst on the bench which made access easy so I had hid it behind the injector rails as per this pic.
I eventually found the problem, a broken wire as my original harness was now getting a bit fragile.
Rather than fix it I found a spare harness in my shed and after giving myself an uppercut for previously hiding it for no reason as that’s what the covers are meant for I just laid it on the engine tied it to the fuel rails so it’s now easily accessed or removed etc.
I checked for a TPS voltage and we were back in business.
So this is how the harness now sits and I can now get back to final assembly and start up.
New one
Comparisons
Also had to fix an issue that drove me nuts. After fitting the TB I went to set the TPS voltage and there was no power at all. After a basic recheck it could only be a harness issue so I had no alternative than to pull the harness for a recheck.
One of the main objectives behind these manifold changes besides more grunt
was to make it easier to access the engine etc should I have any issues in my travels. When trying to remove the harness I soon realized I had failed badly with this objective as now being hidden it took forever to get it off and I broke 3 injector clips doing so. I had to also remove the fuel rails which eventually also led to an injector popping out and a manifold soaked in fuel. Was not happy.I had fitted it whilst on the bench which made access easy so I had hid it behind the injector rails as per this pic.
I eventually found the problem, a broken wire as my original harness was now getting a bit fragile.
Rather than fix it I found a spare harness in my shed and after giving myself an uppercut for previously hiding it for no reason as that’s what the covers are meant for I just laid it on the engine tied it to the fuel rails so it’s now easily accessed or removed etc.
I checked for a TPS voltage and we were back in business.
So this is how the harness now sits and I can now get back to final assembly and start up.
08-23-2013, 06:27 PM
#63
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Heh, heh “The Boss” would like to burn my Man Cave .
Finally got to finishing it off.
Was not happy with TFS’s machining capabilities as the top lid did not sit flat on the upper manifold surface having a distinct bow in the middle. They supply button head bolts with a very small allen heads, which IMHO would strip inside with any tension and it would be a major job to remove them so I used proper cap screws.
It couldn’t be remachined as this would either screw the sealing groove or mismatch the lid etc. It pulled down onto the o ring seal but it’s under tension, whereas if the machining was correct it would virtually just sit flat on top. Because of this it took more than their recommended 20ft lbs to achieve a seal.
Also in this pic you will see the seal groove on the outside etc, which is fine but guys there are 11 bolt holes that exit at the top of the lid with no sealing !!! Dumbass’s. I coated the seal part of their threads in industrial 732 selastic which hopefully should be ok.
Ready for the TB.
But first I had to revise the throttle cable bracket as it was a bit too hard to fit at the same time as fitting the TB. This one is simple.
Assembled without covers and you will also see I ground the ridges off the top lid so I could fit my snake sticker.
Some final Pics and why I also ground off and filled the original 3 side ports in the red section of the upper manifold and these have now been repositioned under the side covers otherwise these hoses would be visable on the outside
Startup was instant but there is an issue that means I can’t do a test drive at this point in time which is a bummer.
It seems that this manifold is a lot more efficient in airflow along with the revised airbox than the former tunnel ram setup to the extent that the engine is now running way too lean even at idle. The former tune was to suit airflow with the tunnel ram setup and now the J3 chip in the ECU will need to be reprogrammed accordingly on a dyno.
But man does this puppy rev. Holding it at 2500 it shows a mixture of 15.2 which is still a bit lean but when I stab the pedal it instantly turns the tacho inside out. Seems I might have to revise my hp increase expectations.
I’ll have to visit the tuner on Monday to book it in and will advise hp details and test drive etc later. Meantime it will have to stay parked up and I can dream
.Finally got to finishing it off.
Was not happy with TFS’s machining capabilities as the top lid did not sit flat on the upper manifold surface having a distinct bow in the middle. They supply button head bolts with a very small allen heads, which IMHO would strip inside with any tension and it would be a major job to remove them so I used proper cap screws.
It couldn’t be remachined as this would either screw the sealing groove or mismatch the lid etc. It pulled down onto the o ring seal but it’s under tension, whereas if the machining was correct it would virtually just sit flat on top. Because of this it took more than their recommended 20ft lbs to achieve a seal.
Also in this pic you will see the seal groove on the outside etc, which is fine but guys there are 11 bolt holes that exit at the top of the lid with no sealing !!! Dumbass’s. I coated the seal part of their threads in industrial 732 selastic which hopefully should be ok.
Ready for the TB.
But first I had to revise the throttle cable bracket as it was a bit too hard to fit at the same time as fitting the TB. This one is simple.
Assembled without covers and you will also see I ground the ridges off the top lid so I could fit my snake sticker.
Some final Pics and why I also ground off and filled the original 3 side ports in the red section of the upper manifold and these have now been repositioned under the side covers otherwise these hoses would be visable on the outside
Startup was instant but there is an issue that means I can’t do a test drive at this point in time which is a bummer.
It seems that this manifold is a lot more efficient in airflow along with the revised airbox than the former tunnel ram setup to the extent that the engine is now running way too lean even at idle. The former tune was to suit airflow with the tunnel ram setup and now the J3 chip in the ECU will need to be reprogrammed accordingly on a dyno.
But man does this puppy rev. Holding it at 2500 it shows a mixture of 15.2 which is still a bit lean but when I stab the pedal it instantly turns the tacho inside out
. Seems I might have to revise my hp increase expectations.I’ll have to visit the tuner on Monday to book it in and will advise hp details and test drive etc later. Meantime it will have to stay parked up and I can dream
10-14-2013, 11:58 PM
#64
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I've been having frustrating pc and server issues stopping me from posting any updates and I finally gave up and brought a new pc last week so hopefully this won't be a further issue.
Since my last post she's been on the dyno but it was breaking down badly and then pinging real bad at anything over 5000rpm so we had to quit.
I've also been over East on a trip.
I've since refitted the MSD, which seems to have cured the breaking down but the pinging is still bad so it seems this new manifold has made a substantial increase in volumetric efficiency and the WOT fuel mapping needs a change.
He used the original dyno graph as a base and at all rpms up to 5000rpm even though it was breaking down it was climbing higher so the signs are good.
The dyno software did a projection from the up to 5000rpm data and it would be an awesome result but I think its way overrated but we will see. I'm thinking somewhere around 370-380rwhp.
Its now booked in for next Tuesday for another go and hopefully the breaking down has been completely cured and he can do a quick fuel remap and we can get some numbers
.
Since my last post she's been on the dyno but it was breaking down badly and then pinging real bad at anything over 5000rpm so we had to quit.
I've also been over East on a trip.
I've since refitted the MSD, which seems to have cured the breaking down but the pinging is still bad so it seems this new manifold has made a substantial increase in volumetric efficiency and the WOT fuel mapping needs a change.
He used the original dyno graph as a base and at all rpms up to 5000rpm even though it was breaking down it was climbing higher so the signs are good.
The dyno software did a projection from the up to 5000rpm data and it would be an awesome result but I think its way overrated but we will see. I'm thinking somewhere around 370-380rwhp.
Its now booked in for next Tuesday for another go and hopefully the breaking down has been completely cured and he can do a quick fuel remap and we can get some numbers
.
10-24-2013, 11:27 PM
#65
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She's now tuned to perfection
But it wasn't a simple excercise and all up it took 19 runs to get the sweet spot and to also take into consideration 4wd use.
The WOT pinging took awhile to sort out and required various fuel and timing changes. Then a constant small ping between 4500-4800 proved difficult to resolve as there didn't appear to be any major reason why this was still occurring only between this small rpm range.
Total rpm timing at WOT now ranges between 19 to 23. A/f is absolutely perfect threwout the whole rpm range being 12.9 to 13.00.
But the Mainline dyno results versus the Dyno Dynamics are apples V onions. It indicated 662.8 N.M @ 5052 which meant nothing to me and without a graph nor rpm references it couldn't really be compared with the former tunnel ram manifolds results.
So it needed a run on a DD for a direct meaningful comparison and although the operator indicated his dyno is conservative this was still worthwhile doing.
I knew the mpg cam grind would limit outright hp but even with this new manifold my bumometer was indicating a good difference and it still made good mumbo with 271.5kw (364hp) and an awesome 510Nm (376ft lbs).
A bugger was it made an additional 10hp again without the airbox lid, which could be added so that is still an issue. There must be grill restriction but I'm not going to make another one so what it has is it
Being a 4wd overall it's an absolute blast to drive and I'm super happy and no doubt subsequent cruising mpg figures will also add an even bigger smile as I only have to breath on the gas pedal at 110kph.
Check out the torque curve as thats what gets you moving.
But it wasn't a simple excercise and all up it took 19 runs to get the sweet spot and to also take into consideration 4wd use.
The WOT pinging took awhile to sort out and required various fuel and timing changes. Then a constant small ping between 4500-4800 proved difficult to resolve as there didn't appear to be any major reason why this was still occurring only between this small rpm range.
Total rpm timing at WOT now ranges between 19 to 23. A/f is absolutely perfect threwout the whole rpm range being 12.9 to 13.00.
But the Mainline dyno results versus the Dyno Dynamics are apples V onions. It indicated 662.8 N.M @ 5052 which meant nothing to me and without a graph nor rpm references it couldn't really be compared with the former tunnel ram manifolds results.
So it needed a run on a DD for a direct meaningful comparison and although the operator indicated his dyno is conservative this was still worthwhile doing.
I knew the mpg cam grind would limit outright hp but even with this new manifold my bumometer was indicating a good difference and it still made good mumbo with 271.5kw (364hp) and an awesome 510Nm (376ft lbs).
A bugger was it made an additional 10hp again without the airbox lid, which could be added so that is still an issue. There must be grill restriction but I'm not going to make another one so what it has is it
Being a 4wd overall it's an absolute blast to drive and I'm super happy and no doubt subsequent cruising mpg figures will also add an even bigger smile as I only have to breath on the gas pedal at 110kph.
Check out the torque curve as thats what gets you moving
.
10-25-2013, 05:23 AM
#66
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I'm not sure which of the 19 tuning runs this was but as you will hear she revs fine and each was to 6000.
https://vimeo.com/77769016
Let it load a tad first and then start again for no interruption. Full screen tab in bottom right corner.
JD
https://vimeo.com/77769016
Let it load a tad first and then start again for no interruption. Full screen tab in bottom right corner.
JD
Last edited by JD; 10-25-2013 at 05:25 AM.
10-25-2013, 06:48 AM
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I have fitted rear discs and this master and booster are from a late model Oz Ford Falcon. Its also a "quick fill" master and has twin piston chambers with inbuilt rear brake proportioning according to pressure applied.
They have this type of bracket factory and I made this one for the 4Runner. Its purpose is to stop the booster and master from flexing on the firewall under heavy braking.
They have this type of bracket factory and I made this one for the 4Runner. Its purpose is to stop the booster and master from flexing on the firewall under heavy braking.
Last edited by JD; 10-25-2013 at 06:50 AM.
