Get the extra clearance underneath and to fix the saggy rear end and in a couple years get bigger tires but i just don't need the bigger tires now.

 

Well, I guess if you dont need the tires, you shouldn't get them.

 

Ya and I was wondering if anyone knows if the difference in backspaceing with the soft 8's and stock rims would make a difference. Thanks

And thanks to the people who didn't think that this was a stupid thread and also to ovrrdrive for pointing that out haha.

 

im running 32x11.50s on stock rims and stock suspension.. they rub when i turn, i have ball joint spacers on the way and as soon as i get the rest of the money will be buying myself a couple inches for the rear as well.. I say if youre gonna lift 2 inches, get the 32s. They arent bad for a daily driver, and they will do just fine offroad. Its not like youre gonna be rock climbing with it

 

When flexed out, the wheel is going to be in the same position with or without the BJ spacers. The compression bumpstop acts on the lower control arm.

So if it rubs before BJS, it will rub after, just less often.

 

They rub on the pinch weld at full lock. I was under the impression that if the weld moved up an inch and a half, then the tire would no longer hit it when i turned?

If what youre saying is true, then a bj spacer will not allow for any larger of a tire?

I can flex the suspension out and the tire wont hit anything, unless its turned almost all the way

 

Its a different tire size, but a 33x10.50 will fit without rubbing, and you will lose the same amount of mpg and power from gearing problems as a 32x11.50 if not less, and its a taller tire. I know it doesn't answer your question, but its another option. I would personally rather have the 33x10.50 over the 32x11.50 FWIW.

 

Ya at first I was gonna get 33's but i wouldn't be able to do a lot off-roading with them intill i get my 2inch lift, cause it looks like they would rub a lot more with bigger tires in thr rear and with the saggy rear. Would it rub when flexed even a little. And how bad is the gearing difference with the 33's or 32's from my 31's that im running now?

 

i too am considering 32x11.50s on 10 inch wide wheels. 3.625 backspacing. will that work or not? i dont mind a little rubbing but alot would concern me. i want to be able to run a 10 inch wide wheel if i get new ones so when i sas my truck in the future, i wont have to change the wheels again. so, does anyone have 32s on 10" wide wheels with no lift? if so, how do they work?

 

I ran my 31x10.5 on 10inch rims before I got the 33s and they cleared okay but I had to remove my front mudflaps because they rubbed at full lock. Otherwise it was okay. With the 32s you might need to remove the valence, and possibly some pinch weld hammering.

 

ive heard that a 10.50 is not good on a 10 inch wheel. thats why i want a 11.50. so when i get a lift, i wont need new wheels too. just tires. the lift wont be for a while due to me wanting to do it the right way (sas) and i need my truck every day now. so i figure if i get new tires and wheels now by the time need tires again ill be ready for the lift. i have no problem with nixing the valence, in fact, i want a MC bumper for the front and rear anyway. my mud flaps were the first thing to go when i got the truck. im not opposed to editing the pinch weld either. has anyone had this combo on their truck? what backspacing would i need?

 

It's not the greatest. There are guys running that setup (this kid on toyotanation has 33x10.5 on 10 inch wheels and it looks pretty cool, the sidewalls being all ballooned out and whatnot) but the problem is when you air down it becoems a lot easier to lose a bead than with a wider tire/narrower rim. I have 12.5 on a 15x10 and even that makes me uneasy when I air down. If you plan on going offrodaing a lot where losing a bead seems like a possibility, I'd stick with a 15x8 for 11.5, or a 15x7 for 10.5.

 

Sounds like she's a keeper matt!