etalono61

I have 1993 toyota 4 runner. picked up this vehicle last year and at first transmission slipped o/d would not stay engaged and it was missing changed wires rotor distributor cap and spark plugs. when i changed the plugs originally could only get 4 out so i replaced what i could(with ngk from advanced auto for 3.58 a piece) and figured i would drive like that until one gave out. so after this small going over the truck was running pretty well no more slips from the transmission so i was happy and went no farther at the time with my repairs.

Fast forward to three months ago, i noticed the odometer acting funny and hunting at idle did not seem to effect driveability and noticed nothing funny so kept driving the 4 runner. Also on start up it would miss only for a few seconds before catching and idling as it should.

2 months ago truck starts sputtering at idle all times and is losing power. Problem gets worse and worse until i decided it was time to take it off the road until it was fixed. I tested all electrical components of the emissions system all checked out fine.

I forgot at this time about the two plugs i failed to remove and replace. So i tore into the top end and pulled the fuel injectors figuring they were sticking due to some low quality(ethanol) fuels i was using. When i pulled the injectors i noticed one of them was not sealing at the grommet, so i pulled all the grommets and sealed them up good with gas safe sealer.(glad i got into there and noticed this otherwise unnoticeable problem, dont be scared to pull the upper plenum!)I sent the fuel injectors to witchhunter.com for cleaning an flow testing. They offer an unbeatable service.

Recieved the injectors back and installed them and everything else removed. When i started it up the same problem existed. I was not happy. at this time i was starting to think catalytic converter. So i had the dremel out ready to cut it off, then I thought about the spark plugs. I stopped with the dremel and started pulling plugs one by one checking gaps and sure enough i got to my two problem plugs. They are the ones on cylinders 2 and 6. I was faced with the problem i did not want to address from the start: How to remove crossthreaded plugs without stripping the aluminum head looked up on this forum the thread chaser method and removing plugs with engine hot.

Started with Number 2 plug and i was able to back it out realizing that this plug was only in by 4 threads and leaking the compression from this cyl. I believe that this is a very common problem because without pulling the alternator bracket you really cannot get good access to that plug with a socket, and lets face it most shops or "do it yourselfers" are not going to pull the alternator to replace a spark plug. So, they just get it to cross thread really good and tight and just ship it like that.

I took off the alternator and stay bracket to gain access to the threads to chase them this method worked and I got the new plug(Denso From dealership 2.50) in. number 6 was a royal pain and was about the most stressful part of this repair. 45 minutes to remove with 1/2" ratchet with a two foot pipe on end for leverage.

Well it came out and i saw my whole problem from the start it was a cracked insulator on number 6 plug and cross thread caused lack of compression on numer 2. Once new plugs were all in this truck really purrs and drives like i never realized it could. So get those old plugs out and dont be scared of the dealership parts counter i dealt with a very knowledgeable parts pro and will go back to them prom now on to get the things i need for the toyota.

TNRabbit

Like I've always said; if it doesn't have power, there's something WRONG!

Also, could have something to do with 4300 lbs being pulled by a 150 hp V6.....

Congrats on your fix! Feels good, huh?

ThatGuy1295

Just the odometer? Or is the speedo acting weird to? Speed sensor is important thats why I'm asking.