3.slow, should it stay or should it go now?
#1
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3.slow, should it stay or should it go now?
3.slow, should it stay or should it go now?
If it stays there will be trouble, if it goes there may be double.
3:20pm started the pull, 7:20 it was loose in the bay (one header still attached, but much easier to get to now), 9:20, clutch, flywheel, front & top end is off and I’m showered, clean and done for the night. It’s moments like this that remind me why I went to college at age 25, gawd I hate being a grease monkey.
My centerforce dual friction is wasted
And the problem with the cylinder is that the piston has a hole and is cracked nearly all the way across.
The block actually looks pretty good. Hone marks look fresh. There’s a tiny bit of scoring in the one cylinder, but it can barely even be felt with a fingernail. Cam’s all look good. Upper timing pulley is notchy and needs replacement. I don't have the bottom end apart yet, but really don't expect any problems there.
So,
Labor $865
Ceramic $350
Timing Set ??
New Clutch ?? $350ish
Recon the injectors ?? $150ish
Needs a starter ?? (going to do that now, it’s a real pain to get out with headers on.)
Buggered a few of the EGT probes ($75/ea)
New Cat ??
New throwout bearing and pilot ??
Rebuild Set, pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets $300
Bigger valves $65
Head Bolts ??
And who knows what else, I’m guessing $2500 to $3000 by the time it’s done.
I have to say I’m very reluctant to do this. Even if I do all this and end up with a real strong running 3.slow, it's still an aneamic 3.slow which could and probably would die again. Particularly when I factor in what I could sell my high performance parts for. Heck, I’ll bet I could ebay my goodies and get $3k for them. $6000 would be a darn good start on a LS1. It’d probably get a Vortec 4.3 done and have change to spare. If I had a place to work on this it’d be a no brainer, I’d be all done with the 3.slow.
I guess I’ve got some hard decision making to do…
If it stays there will be trouble, if it goes there may be double.
3:20pm started the pull, 7:20 it was loose in the bay (one header still attached, but much easier to get to now), 9:20, clutch, flywheel, front & top end is off and I’m showered, clean and done for the night. It’s moments like this that remind me why I went to college at age 25, gawd I hate being a grease monkey.
My centerforce dual friction is wasted
And the problem with the cylinder is that the piston has a hole and is cracked nearly all the way across.
The block actually looks pretty good. Hone marks look fresh. There’s a tiny bit of scoring in the one cylinder, but it can barely even be felt with a fingernail. Cam’s all look good. Upper timing pulley is notchy and needs replacement. I don't have the bottom end apart yet, but really don't expect any problems there.
So,
Labor $865
Ceramic $350
Timing Set ??
New Clutch ?? $350ish
Recon the injectors ?? $150ish
Needs a starter ?? (going to do that now, it’s a real pain to get out with headers on.)
Buggered a few of the EGT probes ($75/ea)
New Cat ??
New throwout bearing and pilot ??
Rebuild Set, pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets $300
Bigger valves $65
Head Bolts ??
And who knows what else, I’m guessing $2500 to $3000 by the time it’s done.
I have to say I’m very reluctant to do this. Even if I do all this and end up with a real strong running 3.slow, it's still an aneamic 3.slow which could and probably would die again. Particularly when I factor in what I could sell my high performance parts for. Heck, I’ll bet I could ebay my goodies and get $3k for them. $6000 would be a darn good start on a LS1. It’d probably get a Vortec 4.3 done and have change to spare. If I had a place to work on this it’d be a no brainer, I’d be all done with the 3.slow.
I guess I’ve got some hard decision making to do…
Last edited by MonsterMaxx; 10-03-2006 at 06:04 PM.
#2
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Location: Vancleave, Mississippi
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definately dont put the 3.slow back in...i put a reman. block back in and now i wish i went on ahead and did the 4.3 chevy. it has a great deal of low end torque and pretty good horsepower...
#3
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Now that I've had some food and looked at it again, I can NOT feel any scoring on the cyl wall with a finger nail or anything else for that matter. I think a hone on that cyl would be plenty if I can get ONE piston & ring.
Based on where the head gasket is seating I'd say this block is bored to the max already.
Based on where the head gasket is seating I'd say this block is bored to the max already.
Last edited by MonsterMaxx; 10-03-2006 at 06:59 PM.
#6
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actually I watched a low mileagle LS1 4L60-e go for about 3k on ebay....harnesses and PCMs included!!
However for less than that and a warrenty you can also get a 350 ram jet, which has its ecu built in and is an EFI engine....food for thought!
But there is just something about an LS1 that's...mmmmm mmmmm!
However for less than that and a warrenty you can also get a 350 ram jet, which has its ecu built in and is an EFI engine....food for thought!
But there is just something about an LS1 that's...mmmmm mmmmm!
#7
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Thread Starter
If someone's done a clean factory looking install of a LS1 in a Toy truck w/ a full driveline I'd sure like to see it. I've googled like crazy and can't find one anywhere that I could see how they have solved problems like headers, oil pan, what to use for a front suspension (I'm thinking one of the modern S10s), electronics, etc.
The LS1 seems like such a natural choice, all aluminum lightweight, good power & fuel economy, no distributor banging the firewall, and more.
I'd really like to take a top of the line TA or Camero and take the whole interior as well (electronic climate control, Airbags, ABS, etc.)
The project would end with an old looking truck and a modern drivetrain, interior & safety features that all looks factory.
You are right, the cyl doesn't look bad, this engine is easily fixable. AND I'm very busy with a project that will MAKE me money (a bigger fuel tank for that HD V-Rod seen in the background) screwing around reinventing a toyota is NOT good use of my time. I don't have a place to work on it. I haven't done the research on the LS1 convert and winter is coming.
The smart choice would be to fix the 3VZE (it could be done in a week or two), meanwhile do the research on the LS1 so that when I move to a new house with a place to work I'd be ready. I don't always make the smart choice.
It's hard decision time.
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#8
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I don't think I'd put the 3.0 back in either... It's just too underpowered and troublesome.
However, I don't think I'd necesarrily do an LS1 either. A mild 350 SBC is all that you would need to completely embarrass the 3.0 powerwise and be a little milder on your stock drivetrain components. Think of going from an unreliable 150hp to a very reliable 250 with an abundance of cheap mods to go well over 400 easily if you ever decide you need it...
Btw, there is a guy over at Yotatech with an LS1 in hos 90 2wd xcab truck. The install looks factory from what I've seen.
90LS1Toy
Also, browse this site for Chevy crate motors and see if it makes you drool the way it does me....
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/
And my favorite bang for the buck...
5.7 liter 290hp/320 lbs
However, I don't think I'd necesarrily do an LS1 either. A mild 350 SBC is all that you would need to completely embarrass the 3.0 powerwise and be a little milder on your stock drivetrain components. Think of going from an unreliable 150hp to a very reliable 250 with an abundance of cheap mods to go well over 400 easily if you ever decide you need it...
Btw, there is a guy over at Yotatech with an LS1 in hos 90 2wd xcab truck. The install looks factory from what I've seen.
90LS1Toy
Also, browse this site for Chevy crate motors and see if it makes you drool the way it does me....
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/
And my favorite bang for the buck...
5.7 liter 290hp/320 lbs
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