So would I need to bother with all the heat wrap and re-routing, I have a two inch body lift so it gets quite a bit more airflow?

 

ummm yae you can weld it you can even weld over top ceramic coat as well but tricky but if you good at being lazy and stuff you can do it

 

Looks great! I have the same headers on my truck. The welding on the exhaust is nice but when i had to change my tranny pan gasket the exhaust cross over pipe was right in the way and didnt let me drop down my tranny pan. My exhaust was still together with the crappy C clamps but it made it easy to take just that middle section off so I could drop the pan.
So do you think this will be a problem for you? Is the exhaust welded all the way to the headers? Just wondering. I still want to have my exhaust welded up like yours. Maybe with some flanges on the headers so that way if I do need to get to stuff under the exhaust I can just unbolt it from the headers.
Oh ya! I wanted to ask you. Where did you get your plug wires from? I still use those wimpy 7.5 stock skinny wires. Where can I get some.
Thanks

 

mine is weded and i added in 2 flanges so i chould remove it if i wish

c clamps suck

 

So no ones knows if it would be good to do all the heat wrap even with a 2" BL?

 

huh ...........

 

The BL would help with the firewall getting hot, but not with the various lines running everywhere. The heat wrap is not a big deal, just do a nicer job than I did.

 

I agree, the BL will most likely let you leave the firewall and the fuel lines alone, as that all moves up with the body. But, the starter and all the plumbing on the passenger side will still be just as close to the headers. I kept going back and doing more wrap as time went on. I would park the rig and smell something else getting hot, go find it, and wrap it also. Summit makes good money on heat sheilding for these header installs.

Mike

 

What about just wrapping the headers in that header wrap on the passenger side?

What all did you cover on the passenger side?

 

The headers are ceramic coated so that helps. I would not personally wrap them, it voids the warranty and promotes cracking.

I wrapped the fuel lines, AC lines, probably the clutch line, various electrical wires, the starter, firewall. It may be overkill, but it is easy to do with the manifold/header out.

 

I thought I had heard on another thread from some guy who had downeys that these had more clearance relative to the starter...

 

on the same thread tho, ive heard that tho the downeys give a lil more clearence to the starter, they often times require beating back the firewall a lil bit... something that i wouldnt want to ever do...

 

Is Downey or thorleys better tho?

 

have the Thorleys. put heat wrap on the started and wire harness and firewall. no issues so far in regards to that.

did change out a clamp because the ones included are essentially crap and were collapsing on themselves as they were tightened.

 

How much are the thorleys and where can I get em cheapest I want to buy som ASAP! But can't find a site or anything for '94 3.0 4runner
And does it com with the whole assembly?

 

SUMMIT racing has a price comparable to what we paid on EBAY.

google doug thorley and you should get to their site to find out exactly what model # you should be searching for and the do your shopping.

as far as completeness? everything we needed except some sealer was included....you should get a tubing cutter though.....borrow one...to make nice straight cuts. unless you have access to a chop saw that can do the same.

probably talking about $600 or so...that's what we paid for the 88 4runner.

 

Thanks I'll try som things I appreciate the info !

 

Well ordered the headers should Benin in bout two weeks! Thanks for info man I appreciate it!

 

I got a 3" body lift, that enough clearance to put in headers without worrying about catching fire or melting anything?

 

Do your exhaust first. LCE has a good catback kit, currently 10% off I think.

2nd, you can buy their crossover that comes w/ their headers for $200. Then just fab a pipe from your current headers to this crossover. One pipe is much easier to insulate/protect stuff from than Thorley headers. At buy doing everything except the headers you get at least 80+% of the gain for 1/2 the cost...