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3.0L v6 Thorley headers on the way, any tips?

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Old Jun 5, 2009 | 10:47 AM
  #21  
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All the work you are putting into your 4runner will pay dividends for sure. I had a 94 toyota sr5 truck, 4x4 5spd with the 3.slow V6 that i put a k&n intake filter and pipe, did the downey headers with crossover pipe. Only took one full day of work to do, I had no snags or probs removing the old and installing the new. The next day i took it to the muffler shop and had them put in a 40 series flowmaster with a high flow cat (the cat didn't last more than a year unfortunately) and it sounded sick and the HP gain was very noticable!! I reccommend welding the headers to your exhaust pipe, the U-clamps suck, also use the copper spray on your gaskets for sure! and if you got chrome headers, take a picture of them before you start up your truck, it's the only time they will be pretty before turning blue. good luck!
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Old Jun 5, 2009 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 95 Yoda 4runner
All the work you are putting into your 4runner will pay dividends for sure. I had a 94 toyota sr5 truck, 4x4 5spd with the 3.slow V6 that i put a k&n intake filter and pipe, did the downey headers with crossover pipe. Only took one full day of work to do, I had no snags or probs removing the old and installing the new. The next day i took it to the muffler shop and had them put in a 40 series flowmaster with a high flow cat (the cat didn't last more than a year unfortunately) and it sounded sick and the HP gain was very noticable!! I reccommend welding the headers to your exhaust pipe, the U-clamps suck, also use the copper spray on your gaskets for sure! and if you got chrome headers, take a picture of them before you start up your truck, it's the only time they will be pretty before turning blue. good luck!

umm next time you put nice shinney stainless headers on wipe them down wiht wd40 they will turn gold once they get hot and stay gold
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Old Jun 5, 2009 | 11:08 AM
  #23  
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Thanks for the tip. I'll try that out when i do my 4runner just the same way as i did my previous toyota truck.
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Old Jun 5, 2009 | 01:01 PM
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Yea, the Helicoil kit was like $62+tax, it came with 10 Helicoils, tap and install tool. The same kit was $45+shipping online, but I was impatient. I have lots of M10-1.25 Helicoils if anyone needs them

The headers are ceramic coated, so hopefully they keep their shine for awhile.

Here are a couple pics of the headers so far:


Last edited by SkiRig; Jun 5, 2009 at 01:03 PM.
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Old Jun 5, 2009 | 09:03 PM
  #25  
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Both headers are in! Crosspipes tomorrow, hopefully fire it up tomorrow.
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 09:54 PM
  #26  
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Truck runs great, no leaks. The O2 sensor was a pain, needed to grind down a nut to fit. The crossover pipes needed to be cut short, that took awhile to get everything fit up. But, the valves are quiet, truck idles smooth. The truck has more power, not neck snapping, but noticeable. I have been tracking gas mileage for awhile, so I will get a good comparison.

I hate to say how long it took me to install the headers, at least 20 hours, maybe more! But, I am happy, the full exhaust sounds great!
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 10:01 PM
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SWEET!!! How was the install on the passenger side? Did you take anything out?
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 10:18 PM
  #28  
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Passenger side was easier than the drivers side, the header slipped right in. I wrapped everything near-by in heat tape: starter, brake lines, fuel lines, AC, wires, I think everything should be okay for heat. I got a big adhesive backed heat shield for the firewall, looks like it should do the job. Having the intake manifold out and all the vacuum lines disconnected definitely helped.

I will post pics tomorrow.
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 09:53 AM
  #29  
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Where did you buy those headers? i have a 91 pickup (3.0 v6) and I cant find headers for it, only for the 4 cyclinder...
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 10:01 AM
  #30  
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From: Hillsboro, OR
Originally Posted by SkiRig
Passenger side was easier than the drivers side, the header slipped right in. I wrapped everything near-by in heat tape: starter, brake lines, fuel lines, AC, wires, I think everything should be okay for heat. I got a big adhesive backed heat shield for the firewall, looks like it should do the job. Having the intake manifold out and all the vacuum lines disconnected definitely helped.

I will post pics tomorrow.
So you did have the intake manifold and vac lines out?
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 10:23 AM
  #31  
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I got the headers from Summit Racing:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I had the manifold and vac lines out to service the injectors and set the valves.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:25 PM
  #32  
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The truck is still running great. The exhaust is pretty loud, I may need to install a magnaflow instead of the Jardine. It sounds good sometimes, but others it sound pretty ratty.

I have a Zeitronix ZT-2 wideband O2 logger, I probably should install it and see how the A/F is doing.

Here are all the pictures I took:











Last edited by SkiRig; Jun 9, 2009 at 09:36 PM.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:52 PM
  #33  
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From: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
How about header wrap instead of all that mess? Would that work?

Do you think it is worth the almost $1000? Seems like it would be around there. I want to just do intake and exhaust on mine and be done with it.

Think about it 3 exhaust sytems and you could have a 3.4 swap. haha
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 07:40 AM
  #34  
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I used a lot of foil header wrap, foil mat for the firewall, then I ran out and used aluminum tape. So yes, header wrap would work, but I would get foil faced tape. I kind of looks like hell, I will probably order some more foil tape from Summit and clean it up.

It is worth it to me, but it is pricey for a few HP. I have had 3slows for the last 10 years and always wanted to do headers. I am unwilling to drop $4k on a 3.4L swap, that is what I figured it would cost by the time it was all said and done.

Last edited by SkiRig; Jun 10, 2009 at 07:42 AM.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 08:03 AM
  #35  
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Just another update, I swapped out the hollow straight through Jardine muffler for a straight through packed Magnaflow, sounds much better. Still pretty loud, but no more rasp or resonance.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 10:56 AM
  #36  
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just installed mine word of note on sas truck you will have to cut the y pipe up but you can make it work with out using any extra pipe

still have to finsh the y pipe back

you whent heat sheilding crazy

here is mine
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re rooted my gas liens and clucht line and by pass the coolent into my thottle body

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and how she sits so easy to work on

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Last edited by Nashman00; Jun 19, 2009 at 10:58 AM.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 11:00 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by SkiRig
Just another update, I swapped out the hollow straight through Jardine muffler for a straight through packed Magnaflow, sounds much better. Still pretty loud, but no more rasp or resonance.

dude by looking at you pic's you cluthc line is about to blow mine did

mine was light then it failed
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 11:56 AM
  #38  
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Lookin good Nashman!
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 04:33 PM
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thanks dude
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 10:59 PM
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For future reference, if anyone's wary of the slip fit pipe style, be sure you buy the stainless ones so you can weld the flanges on then send them out to Jet-Hot for ceramic coating. *You cannot weld on steel once it has been ceramic coated due to the change in the material that occurs.
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