3.0 right bank not firing
#1
3.0 right bank not firing
so driving down the road and all of a sudden total lack of power its a 93 sas was auto but swapped that also... runs rough idling if I pull the plug wires off the dist. there is no change in the way the motor runs when I pulled the odd wires and it will sputter when I pull a even wire it will spark a whole inch on any of the wires and if you put your hand on the dist. it has a real bad vibration while running. you can put your hand on the manifold and it doesn't get warm any help in the right direction would be greatly appreciated thanks ....Mike
#2
Registered User
When did you last replace your cap and rotor on your distributor? That's my best guess -- perhaps your cap was slightly out of spec wearing the odd cylinders contacts faster?
The other thing that comes to mind is that your wire keepers were broken or nonexistent and you cooked your wires on your egr pipe... Or cut somewhere else crossing over the engine to passenger bank...
Start with distributor and then go to wires. And if it's not those, inspect the spark plugs. I suppose it's possible that the PO owner did one bank of spark plugs, got tired, and decided not to do the passenger side...
But a complete lack of spark suggests distributor or wires. There's no other reason I can think of that spark wouldn't be reaching the passenger side of your engine as spark for both banks travels through the distributor.
If not spark, then it's a fuel issue and you probably have a clog in your passenger side fuel delivery line that doesn't allow fuel to reach those cylinders. Pull a plug on the passenger side and see if it sparks. If it doesn't, it's spark. Try to start the engine and then pull the plug. Is the plug wet and smelling of gasoline? If not, it's a fuel delivery issue...
The other thing that comes to mind is that your wire keepers were broken or nonexistent and you cooked your wires on your egr pipe... Or cut somewhere else crossing over the engine to passenger bank...
Start with distributor and then go to wires. And if it's not those, inspect the spark plugs. I suppose it's possible that the PO owner did one bank of spark plugs, got tired, and decided not to do the passenger side...
But a complete lack of spark suggests distributor or wires. There's no other reason I can think of that spark wouldn't be reaching the passenger side of your engine as spark for both banks travels through the distributor.
If not spark, then it's a fuel issue and you probably have a clog in your passenger side fuel delivery line that doesn't allow fuel to reach those cylinders. Pull a plug on the passenger side and see if it sparks. If it doesn't, it's spark. Try to start the engine and then pull the plug. Is the plug wet and smelling of gasoline? If not, it's a fuel delivery issue...
Last edited by RSR; 07-30-2013 at 08:33 PM.
#3
Thanks for the reply but I just got done pulling all the plugs checking for spark and my arm is still tingling hahaha but yeah there is good spark and since they where out I did a compression check and all looks good so I put the plugs back in the holes with out the wires and ran the motor for a min pulled the plugs back out and there isn't as much fuel on the plugs as I would thing is there any kind of relay that controls each fuel rail
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#8
Does not go to ground, There power supplied by the EFI relay to the injectors then the ECU.
There are fusable links in the harness that are coated with tar and taped, These go bad sometimes.
But from the fusable links its splices off and goes to the even bank and also splices off to power the Dist, Igniter, coil and AFM.
TEST: If you can get the engine running again pull up on the wiring harness that is crossing from the fender to the engine and see if it makes any changes.
I found this out myself that after 300K mi the copper was turning to dust inside the sleeving.
Had to cut out all the fusable links and had to scrap the oxidation off the wire and then solder them.
There are fusable links in the harness that are coated with tar and taped, These go bad sometimes.
But from the fusable links its splices off and goes to the even bank and also splices off to power the Dist, Igniter, coil and AFM.
TEST: If you can get the engine running again pull up on the wiring harness that is crossing from the fender to the engine and see if it makes any changes.
I found this out myself that after 300K mi the copper was turning to dust inside the sleeving.
Had to cut out all the fusable links and had to scrap the oxidation off the wire and then solder them.
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