3.0 Plenum Removal
Nov 28, 2011 | 12:30 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 536
Likes: 0
From: Ahwahnee, CA
3.0 Plenum Removal
Hey Guys, I just have a few quick questions.
I'm in the process of removing my plenum.
I have done some research. According to the pic int he following link, I have removed all necessary hardware: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120.../#post51814140
All 4 main bolts, 2 (1 front, 1 rear) nuts, EGR, and all other nick-nack wires and such on the pass. side are removed.
I am able to pry the pass. side of the plenum up just slightly, but I can't get the driver side to break free.
Have I forgotten to remove something? Or am I not doing something right?
Thanks to all who pitch in! This is my first time taking any engine apart.
I'm in the process of removing my plenum.
I have done some research. According to the pic int he following link, I have removed all necessary hardware: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120.../#post51814140
All 4 main bolts, 2 (1 front, 1 rear) nuts, EGR, and all other nick-nack wires and such on the pass. side are removed.
I am able to pry the pass. side of the plenum up just slightly, but I can't get the driver side to break free.
Have I forgotten to remove something? Or am I not doing something right?
Thanks to all who pitch in! This is my first time taking any engine apart.
Nov 28, 2011 | 04:14 PM
#4
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: West Palm Beach, FL
There are 6 bolts and 2 nuts to remove it. 4 on top, 2 nuts and 2 bolts on the far drivers side below the top level. You also have to disconnect the coolant hose connected to the throttle body, and on the passenger side, disconnect the big hose for the PAIR valve, which is towards the pass side rear, underneath. Throttle cable and cruise control cables need to be off. Also remove the Fuel pressure regulator fuel line connection to the plenum metal tube that runs underneath the front of the plenum to the pass side. Loosen gas cap to release fuel pressure before!
Last edited by 93toyrunner2; Nov 29, 2011 at 04:32 AM. Reason: typo
Nov 28, 2011 | 06:42 PM
#5
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Cedaredge ,CO
There are 6 bolts and 2 nuts to remove it. 4 on top, 2 nuts and 2 bolts on the far drivers side below the top level. You also have to disconnect the coolant hose connected to the throttle body, and on the passenger side, disconnect the big hose for the PAIR valve, which is towards the pass side rear, underneath. Throttle cable and cruise control cables need to be off. Also remove the Fuel pressure regulator fule line connection to the plenum metal tube that runs underneath the front of the plenum to the pass side. Loosen gas cap to release fuel pressure before!
Nov 28, 2011 | 07:08 PM
#6
Registered User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 438
Likes: 4
From: Toronto
I just did this a few months ago to change a leaking pulsation damper (change that while you're under there because they often fail -- it's on the passenger's side fuel rail at the back). As mentioned just above, my money's on the rear coolant hose to the throttle body hanging it up. It's hard to see. By the way, an O.E. pulsation damper cost me big bucks ($200) from the dealer but Rock Auto has one for around $90 before shipping.
Nov 28, 2011 | 10:14 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 536
Likes: 0
From: Ahwahnee, CA
Nope, that's completely out of the way already.
I will check around that area.
A total of 6 bolts might explain my difficulty. I got the 2 nuts and the 4 bolts on top. Now I've just got to find those 2 others.
Thanks everyone!
Thanks everyone!
Trending Topics
Nov 29, 2011 | 02:28 PM
#8
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 754
Likes: 0
From: Graham, WA
Check here at the bottom of pg EG2-55.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/engine/68cylinder.pdf
6 bolts and two nuts
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/engine/68cylinder.pdf
6 bolts and two nuts
Nov 22, 2012 | 04:51 PM
#10
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
I needed to replace the motor in my 96 Tacoma, first time for me, and like a dummy forgot to label the hoses. After putting in the motor and using diagrams and a Haynes book for the vacuum lines and throttle body connections, the truck fired up. But shortly after died and didn't want to start. After pulling the spark plugs I found water in a couple cylinders. I really don't think the head gasket is blown, I feel I didn't hook up the water by-pass line in the right spot and it's pumping in through the plenum. Is there a diagram to go by to make sure that the water, and water by-pass lines are connected where they are supposed to be?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Blamalam
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
22
Mar 12, 2022 07:34 AM
