jahsermon

Ok so i have a 92 4runner 3.0 and it has the dreaded milky oil but its not smoking. Is there any hope of fixing the engine or should i just scrap it and try to find a better year 4runner. I want a reliable runner but i dont like the new body styles. Any help on the engine or the best 4runner yota made would be much appreciated.

KBAM

Well with that little amount of info, I'll buy it off you for $100. Any other notable problems?

But seriously, a headgasket job isn't that bad. Do it yourself and save some dough. Get the heads decked and a do valve job while you're in there, timing belt and water pump, replace hoses and shoot, maybe even a new radiator for peace of mind, you've got yourself a reliable 4runner for the next 70k miles. I did all that for somewhere in the ballpark of $700 if I remember right.

jahsermon

Well 100 is a nice offer but i can let my kids play in it if i do scrap it. They enjoy it as much as I'd like to. I dont know much about mechanics and this is my first "project". What you're throwing out there sounds pretty extensive but I'll give it a shot. I think the hardest part will be selling my wife on the idea. She wasn't to enthousiastic to begin with but if i can do it within the ballpark of what you're saying she might go along. Thanks for the info.

Janos01

Hey jahsermon

I can completely relate to your situation. Milky oil is a definite sign your head gasket is bad. If it is not replaced, it will blow and you will not be able to drive anywhere until its fixed. Mine has blown 2 times since ive had my 1990 4runner. As KBAM mentioned, if you are able to do it yourself, it will be cheaper but there are a few things to consider as well.

If the engine itself is the original one that came with your yota, it is best to have everything from the heads up (seals, headgasket, ect) replaced and sent to the machine shop. However, if able, it is recommended to have the bottom end of the engine rebuild as well as the engine will be half way apart. If just the top end were to be rebuilt, it would be good but the bottom end AKA the short block will be the same and if something happens to that, you will need to take off the top end again to fix the bottom.

Last thing that might be a cheaper route would be to find/buy a used or rebuilt engine and install a good set of exhaust headers which help with the heat issue for the HGs blowing.

Not trying to scare you just trying to help out as this issue is a pain that all owners of a 3VZ deal with.

BeOhBe

Why not start with a compression test first?

edit for clarification:
Couldn't a bad seal at the intake also produce milky oil? Serious question, I'm no expert... just curious.

Janos01

Compression test my not show anything. Milky oil in a 3.0 3VZ is a definite sign head gasket issue. If it is not fixed the HG will blow and the car will not work. It is possible that the piston rings my swell as well causing more issues as that is what happened to me this past January. I had to get my heads & short block rebuilt as a result.