SeeBeeAre

ok i bought this truck just a few miles ago and the gal befor me had the whole top in rebuilt.... Heads pressure tested and resurfaced

1. -Head gaskets
2. -Knock sensor
3. -Radiator
4. -Temperature switch
5. -Thermostat sender
6. -Spark plugs
7. -Water pump
8. -Thermostat housing
9. -Fan clutch
10. -Throttle body
11. -Coolant temp sensor
12. -Manifold set
13. -Oxygen sensor
14. -Plugs & wires
15. -ECH Sensor
16. -ECHT sender
17. -Distributor cap
18. -Roter
19. -CRB regulator

now ive been chasing a 25/26 check engine light lean and rich
on my way home i stopped at a shop and was looking to trade her for a couple older yotas, I think she over heard me cause she decided to spit a valve(I think)

ticking like crazy she managed to drink 4 quarts of oil real quick
topped off the oil hoping that it was excess nice do to low oil and no....

TACK TACK TACK rev it up and it sounds like something is going to come through the valve cover

I pulled number 6 spark plug first cause thats where i heard the noise
and it looked like this...


now im about to jump in and pull the plennum and valve cover but is it really worth it with compression low in cylinder 3 as well (120) and all pulgs apear to be oily....
do i pull the motor and rebuild
find another truck with a manual and swap it in
buy new motor (keep looking for the manual transmission and other needed parts )

I love the 22r and was thinking even going back to the basics and swap in my favorite toyota motor 22r


so many options so many headaches any honest advise will be accepted.

I wish i could say money is no option but i think it will end up being a major deciding factor on what to do next.

MudHippy

That's interesting. I wonder what the hell caused that.

I wouldn't think it has anything to do with the valves. Nor would they be the likely cause of the excessive oil consumption and/or the oil fouled plugs. And they're probably not the cause of the low compression on the #3 cylinder either.

I can't say for sure, but I suspect it's probably all due(in one way or another) to a lower end issue. As in bad rings and/or pistons. And what you're hearing is probably just the pieces of that spark plug banging around inside the cylinder still. Since the pieces of it left in there are probably too big to escape passed the open exhaust valve.

But, like I said, I can't say that for sure. That's just my best guess at this point...


Should you rebuild it? That depends on how bad a shape it's in now. Sounds like it's half way rebuilt already. So maybe you should finish the job? Might be worth the while, or it might not be. Hard to say without enough facts to base that kind of decision on...

BTW...what are:

12. -Manifold set
15. -ECH Sensor
16. -ECHT sender
19. -CRB regulator

I've never heard of any of those things..

SeeBeeAre

i was hoping you have the answers to that... that is the list of new stuff the previous owner had replaced.... also a whole bag of injectors was in the back cargo area.... cause i can not get the details from her about the shop im diving in. Im guessing someone grabbed a book and started replacing parts. cause when i ran though the trouble code 25 and 26 all sensors and regulators seemed to have been replaced....
(i tried to start another thread as i was chasing the CEL) which i believe is the single wire going to one of the temp sensors was freyed behind what apears to be masing tape. (the connector was busted off and it has one black wire wih a yellow stripe to it)

i got the truck cause she said the right words on pressure testing and resurfacing the heads....

I like you logic on the lower half of the motor I will take pics after i get the valve covers off and go from there ....

kornhuskerwizard

im not a fan of the 3.0 in my opinion the 22re has far better dependability with less moving parts and honestly the 3.0 doesent have that much more power. have you considered a 3.4 swap?

iliketoyota

dont want to sound like every other guy on here, but seriously do a 3.4 swap. You will put at least half as much in the 3.0 rebuilding it and still have a 3.slow. You probably need new heads now again from the pieces of the plug bouncing around and all new lower end bearings too. Or just put a 3.4 in and not have to touch it except for timing belts for 250,000+ miles. Thats just my opinion though.

TylerH

I also agree on the 3.4 swap.

SeeBeeAre

all those recomending a 3.4 swap.... thats new wiring harness, new computer new drive train new .... and i might as well throw in a manual while im at it .... i wish i had that kind of money to throw at it and if i did why not just go with the lexus v8.....

if someone can show me a link to a 3.4 swap with relitive price comparison then im all ears. however a whole swap seem like so much more work....

If i put any motor in it I would build a 22r with a 20 r head and have what i believe to be toyotas most dependible motor.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Done yourself a 3.4 swap can be done just as inexpensive as rebuilding the 3.0 or going backwards to a 4 banger.

92 4Runner 3.4 swap 5 spd just completed runs as fast as you dare drive it on the highway and power to spare.

:wabbit2:

SeeBeeAre

Im leading with Mud Hippy on this one
I know its slow progress but i will keep posting pics and updating as i go

SeeBeeAre

only one side apart so far getting ready to go on vacation for the weekend
next week im diving in !!!!

threeacres

It looks like you have a broken valve spring. There is way too much clearance between the cam and the lifter.

MudHippy

I bet not...
That would be the #3 cylinder exhaust valve that's stuck open...correct?

Meaning, that's where the TACK TACK TACK sound is coming from. And that I'm probably pretty close to right as to the cause of it. But I'll modify my statement to suggest that the piece(s) of the spark plug have become lodged so as to prevent the valve from contacting the seat(fully closing).

Which, would be relatively good news. Considering the multitude of things that could have made that kind of sound, and potentially resulted in much more damaged parts(in number and severity). So, it should be relatively easier to fix(if it ends up being worth the while to do).

SeeBeeAre

that is number 6 intake valve (back rt second to last valve)

i should have the heads off today or tomorrow and more pics to follow,

with low compression in 3 im still thinking that i will need the bottom end rebuilt (rings bearings ect...

Innocent Fool

My advice is to find another 3.0 and swap it in. Also swap in a 5spd if you have an auto. This will be the cheapest and quickest way to get your rig up and running. I had a couple of 3.0s with autos and didn't like them not because of reliability but because of lack of power. My last rig was a 3.0 5spd and the difference with a 5spd is night and day. Also might want to consider swapping in 4.51 gears. I found it to be a really good combo.

I did a 3.4 swap on my current rig. Sure it's more power etc... but I found it was allot of time and work. I could do another one allot quicker now that I've done one but the first one is a real learning curve and you still need specialty parts with the exhaust and wiring.

IMHO I would suggest a 3.0 5spd swap with 4.56 gears.

PS. Try to get a pre 90 engine. Less trouble with HGs (they were asbestos)

RobD

I'm with everyone else suggesting the 3.4 swap. Fix the one you have as best you can, but maybe think long term about the 3.4. I did mine 5 years ago and the thing hasn't missed a beat for 250,000 kms.

Pat8942

I appears to me that something was left in the intake manifold when the work was done and it made it's way into the combustion chamber, I'm sure you'll find top of the piston all beat up.

SeeBeeAre

looking for a long block would like it rebuilt any one know of a good supplier??

? engine world ?

bone collector

yikes!! sorry about your luck man. good luck in your quest for a long block

hiGis

wow! how did that got there?

SeeBeeAre

i thought i could get more fuel into the engine if i propped the valve open