3.0 Died On Freeway. Wont Restart. (Video)
#41
Registered User
Check your VAC lines and Mass Air Flow sensor. The backfiring makes me think its a vac issues and the ECU is either adding to much fuel or not enough.
It could also be cam angle position sensor.
It could also be cam angle position sensor.
#43
Have you done anything yet? That FPR needs to be repalced pronto. Carb cleaner yet? The "flapper door" in your AFM could be stuck as well. As the "flapper door" resistor spring has a micro switch connected to it that turns on the fuel pump when the "flapper door" opens.
#46
TBelt Pictures
I tried the carb cleaner trick, no dice. Pulled plugs, little dirty but not too bad. Injector pulse checked.
Haven't read up on how to check the timing but I went ahead and got the cover off to take a look. I have some pictures in case it's possible to see if my timing is off just from them...The pulley on the passenger side has a dot on one spoke and it happens to be @ the 6 O'clock position. Driver side pulley has a dot and an arrow and that spoke is @ about 4 O'clock.
-Kevin
Haven't read up on how to check the timing but I went ahead and got the cover off to take a look. I have some pictures in case it's possible to see if my timing is off just from them...The pulley on the passenger side has a dot on one spoke and it happens to be @ the 6 O'clock position. Driver side pulley has a dot and an arrow and that spoke is @ about 4 O'clock.
-Kevin
Last edited by wsntme; 08-10-2010 at 04:21 PM.
#47
I just noticed the reply about the flapper and I'm certain it's not stuck because when motor is cranked you can here it flapping. At first I thought I was hearing a bad noise coming from inside the engine haha.
Last edited by wsntme; 08-10-2010 at 05:11 PM.
#49
Registered User
Now that you have the timing cover off, you will see a dimple in the metal at the 12 o'clock spot, behind each of the timing sprockets. Rotate the engine with a wrench on the crank bolt till one of the sprockets lines its mark up with one of the dimples. The mark on the sprocket will be a small notch, or a groove.
When one of the marks lines up, the other better line up with its dimple, or you have a cam phasing problem.
This means the belt has skipped one or more teeth, and must be replaced.
When one of the marks lines up, the other better line up with its dimple, or you have a cam phasing problem.
This means the belt has skipped one or more teeth, and must be replaced.
#50
Now that you have the timing cover off, you will see a dimple in the metal at the 12 o'clock spot, behind each of the timing sprockets. Rotate the engine with a wrench on the crank bolt till one of the sprockets lines its mark up with one of the dimples. The mark on the sprocket will be a small notch, or a groove.
When one of the marks lines up, the other better line up with its dimple, or you have a cam phasing problem.
This means the belt has skipped one or more teeth, and must be replaced.
When one of the marks lines up, the other better line up with its dimple, or you have a cam phasing problem.
This means the belt has skipped one or more teeth, and must be replaced.
Thank you for the info. I will try this after work today. Tearing it down was enough for me yesterday, I can't wait for "winter" to come!
After taking another look at the cam pulleys, it would appear that one is on backwards....? Pass side has a lip to the rear and drivers has one but in front. This is correct?
#52
I think it's the timing!
So, I just got home and figured out how to turn the motor with wrench. Lined up the pulley down low (crank pulley) so that the notch was aligned with the zero.
I'm not quite sure if I'm trying to reference the cam pulleys off of the correct "dimples" though. If so, then the passenger side is where it should be and the drivers side is around 8 O'clock rather than 12.....
More pictures;
I'm not quite sure if I'm trying to reference the cam pulleys off of the correct "dimples" though. If so, then the passenger side is where it should be and the drivers side is around 8 O'clock rather than 12.....
More pictures;
Last edited by wsntme; 08-13-2010 at 03:07 AM.
#55
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i would cycle it 3-4 times.. and if you dont line up you dont line.. up bottom.. line
buy a new belt and a new belt tension kit replace all bolts and lock washer to prevent loosening of bolts in future..
retime engine and motor away for a few hundred thousand miles....
buy a new belt and a new belt tension kit replace all bolts and lock washer to prevent loosening of bolts in future..
retime engine and motor away for a few hundred thousand miles....
#56
Contributing Member
When all is said and done and you figure out what this issue is, let's rename this thread for search-ability, because your pictures and the diagnostic info from all is really good!!
#57
i would cycle it 3-4 times.. and if you dont line up you dont line.. up bottom.. line
buy a new belt and a new belt tension kit replace all bolts and lock washer to prevent loosening of bolts in future..
retime engine and motor away for a few hundred thousand miles....
buy a new belt and a new belt tension kit replace all bolts and lock washer to prevent loosening of bolts in future..
retime engine and motor away for a few hundred thousand miles....
My friend who is a Toyota mechanic is going to come help me on Friday . This is great because he can get me factory parts with a nice discount. We were going to do it at the shop but to tow 20 miles is not so cost effective.
I plan on solving my coolant leak at the same time (suspect pump). So hopefully by Sat morning it'll be running and going good for another 200k
Oh, and I turned the engine plenty, no way those pulleys will ever line up.
#58
Great idea. I agree, it is great to find "problem" threads that finally have a resolution. I find some that are experiencing similar problems and then the thread just died (I use the search plenty ). I plan to see this through.