DezertAvenger

Hello everyone, I’m new to the forum and just wanted to ask your opinion of my build plan. I’ve got a low mileage, bright metallic blue ‘93 Toyota pickup 2WD, and right off the bat I’ll tell you that this will be primarily daily driver and show truck, with maybe a monthly trip to Oregon Dunes. Cost isn’t really much object as I’ll have to get a loan, and I might as well build it how I want it in the first place. Anyway, these are the parts I’m planning to install, after a couple months of research:

Suspension:
Total Chaos Ball Joint long travel suspension
4Crawler Off Road ball joint spacers
Obsessed Motorsports Fabrication lift spindles
Sway A Way Heavy duty torsion bars
Total Chaos dual shock mounts
Bilstien 5100 shocks
All Pro Off Road 4WD 4” rear long travel suspension
Spring over axle conversion
Traction Bar

Engine and Drivetrain:
LC Engineering 22RE street turbo kit
GotPropane 22RE conversion
Davis Unified Ignition distributor
7.5” 4.88 gears
Detroit Truetrac
Electric radiator fan
Short throw shift kit

Other Parts:
2” 4Crawler Off Road heavy duty body lift
2” 4Crawler Off Road engine mount spacers
Poly body mount bushings
All Pro Off Road rollcage
Fiberwerx Ivan Sharp fenders and bedsides
LC Engineering extended brake lines
One piece driveshaft
American Racing Torq Thrust 15x8
Treadwright Warden 33” (BFG AT tread pattern)

Some things I would like to ask is if I should use coilovers instead of the torsions. I know this would require an engine cage, but because of the turbo and DUI ignition an engine cage wont fit overtop of the engine. However, could I mount the shock hoops at the frame and engine mounts, and run a hoop underneath the engine bolted to the engine mounts? Or should I run the engine cage horizontally, around the front and rear of the engine? If I do end up with the coilovers, what would be the optimum spring rate? Since I’ll be totalling around 10” of lift, should I be able to clear 33’s at full stuff without rubbing?

Some explanations about my parts choices. Yes, I know I shouldn’t body lift the truck when ill be jumping it. As a compromise, I’m only going with 2”, with the pricier heavy duty hardware and poly bushings. The reasons for the body lift are to have more tire-to-firewall clearance, and create more room for the undermounted forklift tanks (skidplated, of course). The engine mount spacers are to raise the engine 2” with the body so I can install a short throw shift kit, but a custom crossmenber for the trans will need to be fabricated.

Im 18 and this is my first truck, so I appreciate any suggestions you can give. This truck will be attending shows, simply because I have a passion for going to them, and wish to participate. That doesn’t mean I wont get it dirty. Also, this truck has sentimental value, so please don’t tell me to sell it and get a 4WD.

PS, sorry for the long post, but thanks to everyone for their input!

Robert m

iTrader: (2)

1. if you have to get a loan to build your truck you SHOUDNT build it. put it together as you can afford it.
2. you need to do some more research on what you should do to the truck. half of the stuff you listed you either dont need or would be a bad idea to mix with other parts.
and 3. running 33's on a stock steering setup and balljoints probably isnt a good idea.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

^^ 18 and getting a loan to build a truck is a bad idea
save your money and build it as you have cash...debt is a bad thing at a young age

BajaRunner

Your plan looks good, as far as parts go. I wouldn't double up on the ball joint spacers and long travel though either.

Thats a heck of a lot of money for all these things. Most guys earning $50k+ a year wouldn't even do this at once. I'd really reconsider, and start off with a few items maybe and work your way up as you pay off those bills.

shaeff

Don't take out a loan on a '93 2wd pickup. They're cheap. Just save some money and buy it outright.

cootees

Def. Don't take out a loan.

It sounds like you have a good plan for that truck. Make sure you post the buildup process.

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

7.5" ring gears are for the front diff.
The rear is 8".
+1 debt sucks.

sebastianholmes

^^^ wrongggg, the 2wd rears are 7.5 in.
if i was you i would get a 4x4 8 in rear end instead of the 2wd one

sebastianholmes

oh and i would avoid the body lift. you hit one jump and those things will pop right through the cab floor

xxxtreme22r

x2 on being wrong:

Tofer

but then he would have 6 lug rear rims and 5 lug front.

xxxtreme22r

are both rear axles 27 spline allowing you to swap the 8" carrier and gears or the entire 3rd into the 2wd housing? Or wont the 2wd housing accept the 8" carrier/gears/3rd in the first place?

sebastianholmes

wouldnt that be pretty easy to fix since he is doing a long travel kit in the front?

sebastianholmes

i think it being 8 inch and one being 7.5 inch means that the 2wd is half an inch smaller so no the 4wd 3rd wont fit or anything like that. if he wants the 8 inch then he has to swap to the 4wd rear end.

i might be wrong though, not an experttt

rattlewagon

4wd rear ends are 30 spline.

And if your dumping that much coin on a truck, why go with treadwrights? Get some fresh rubber.

Being in debt sucks. You got a final price on all that stuff you listed? Just going down the list in my head I hit 10k easy.

Edit: You got pics of this beast? Love me some 2wd yotas.

DezertAvenger

okay so the consensus seems to be no body lift at all, and no 33's. that means i can get rid of the body and drivetrain lift and stick with 31's. That was my original idea, but I wanted 12.50's for better floatation. I'm pretty sure Pro Comp makes 31/12.50's, i've actially seen some, but cant find where to buy them. And despite the overall cost of the build, i still want to save money where i can, and treadwrights are only $100 each. but if i were to go with new rubber, i think 31" TSL Thornbirds would do well in the sand.
As for the confusion about the dual shocks, i've seen a Downey kit that keeps the torsions and uses dual bilstiens. i didnt know you could replace one shock with a coilover.
i can see now that the ball joint spacers will be useless.
Yes, the diff is a 7.5" rear. I could go to an 8" if i upgrade the LT to the TC uniball 6 lug kit, for $1500 more.
Now, the total parts cost not including taxes or shipping, before you all dissuaded me from the body lift and 33's, was $9108.97. with 6" total lift and 31/10.50's, the new total is $8,715.03. on a 6 year loan the monthly payments would be about $200 a month. pretty manageable, i think. (the same as my girlfriend's tiny 09' Chevy Aveo) I have access to a university auto shop, and can do most of the work myself or with the help of my freind and his professors.
Its entirely possible to build the truck in stages, such as spindle lift and SOA, LT front and rear, turbo and propane, then fiberglass and paint. but by savings it would take years, and i want my truck now..!
Ahh well, you cant have your cake and eat it too. ill see how my finances play out and see if i can manage the loan.
Thanks to everyone who contributed, but could anyone explain how coilovers and shocks work together on the same corner of the truck? i cant find any info elsewhere.

DezertAvenger

Some pic's for RE-RE

atari56

I run 31's on my 94 2wd. Went with 3 inch body lift and fabtech 3.5 inch performance lift (longer upper control arms, new torsions cranked in the front and an add a leaf in the rear).

Wanted the long travel but the $$$ was too much up front. Personally I like the way my truck rides. If youre only doing light off roading no need for full long travel. The money catches up to you quickly.

Build in stages like everyone days. It will be a fun experience. Wish I had found yotatech when I was 18.

stock as possible

Sell the 93, buy a taco, 4wd or prerunner w a 3.4. I doubt you'd be able to get a 6 year personal loan for "truck stuff".

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Keep looking, Downey went out of business 1.5 years ago, they succumbed to the economy. You might get lucky and find some of Old stock.

welcome to the real world...sometimes you have to wait